Being able to disable switch light completely. A while back I got a Hank with the wrong switch color, and would probably just disable now if I could. This is the older press-fit retaining ring so its hard to replace the rubber boot.
If there is a switch light, being able to have it dim when light is off (to find it on a night stand), and off when light is on
If there is a switch light, it can communicate voltage or something for the first second or so the light turns on, but then it should turn off (and this should never be brighter than the main, so not brighter than moon if switching to moon).
At least with my Anduril builds, the switch light is a function of the AUX and main brightness. If you turn AUX off, that solves the switch light problem when the light is off. But when the light comes on, then the switch light comes back on and there is no way to override this, unless you do your own builds.
EDIT: Another nice example of switch light behavior is the Manker E14 IV. It does the momentary voltage thing when you turn the light on. But when you go into a programming mode, it begins to blink red. I think this is a nice use of another information channel to indicate you are in a mode, providing feedback.
Rejoice! At least with Anduril rev. >=720 on a Wurkkos FC13, I can personally attest&certify all the above indeed does work!
EDIT: just checked and you are right about the following:
But when the light comes on, then the switch light comes back on and there is no way to override this, unless you do your own builds
Indeed, in ramp mode, 7C (which is the sequence to change the Aux LED pattern for both off and lock-out modes) is not implemented: pressing it does exactly nothing.
But in my thinking, there’s no missing features in Anduril, there are only implementation opportunities!
Seriously, if you really want that, please post a comment to that effect (referring this one of mine) in the Anduril 2 feature change suggestions and I’m sure someone will jump in and implement it for you, perhaps even Yours Truly
I use non-slip tape (e.g. skateboard tape) and put it next to the charging port so that I can tell which side the switch is on. Being rough it’s easily felt. It’s also good for handgun grips to make them less slippery
For an EDC, I just don’t want anything but a rear clicky. When I’m trying to start a piece of heavy equipment in sub-zero temps with thick gloves on, it’s the only thing that works
It’s part of the reason I strongly prefer tail switches. You find them fast 100% of the time. I also use a reverse grip a lot, so my thumb is naturally on the tail to start with.
Lots of lights have a “breathing” mode. It’s a triangle wave on the PWM for a switch LED. It looks nice… but it requires keeping the MCU awake to generate a PWM signal, and the LED tends to use a few milliamps, so it uses more power than just leaving the main LEDs in moon mode.
So I haven’t put a breathing mode into Anduril. It’s generally perceived as a safe mode to leave a light in while unused, but it drains the battery pretty fast. I’ve had a couple lights with breathing mode, and it took about 10 to 20 days to empty the battery.
Anduril’s blinking aux mode, however, runs for about a year per charge. It doesn’t look as nice, but it’s much more practical.
It’d be ideal if you could tell where the switch it as soon as you grab the flashlight. Something just in the design that points to it. Idk what but something
I wish more manufacturers would adopt hidden charging port in threads. I’m not one of those guys who hates USB ports as if they murdered a family member (unlike some users on here), but the ‘hidden’ charging ports are really nice.
I hate “breathing” mode for just being creepy, and have refused to buy lights (mainly Wubens) because they had it and it couldn’t be disabled.
Not a fan of andy’s “blinking” mode because it’s kind of spazzy, but it’s a good annoying way to tell if a light’s in lockout mode, like, “Hey, do not forget to unlock me when you’re done doing God-knows-whatever.”. I have off set to “low” and lockout to “blinking”.
What I’d really want is a “beacon” mode like my MH20 has. Switch-light just blips on every 2sec or so. Gets attention in the dark and should use almost nothing in LED/µC power.
One thing I keep forgetting to mention to you, I had a good idea about this one.
On my lights, I have some configurable settings (that I would reduce and simplify for a main branch patch, of course ) so that when I lock it, I can have the aux stay on high for a configurable length of time, then drop to low. I like having bright aux in my pockets and bags even when a light needs to be locked, it makes it more likely to be easier to find when I need it, possibly in a hurry, but don’t want them on high all night by my bedside or the battery drain of high aux over a week.
Obviously, the breathing needs enough PWM outputs available anyway, but if it did then that might be doable similarly as a solution to the battery consumption. After a certain amount of time (obviously, I’d make it configurable , but even hardcoded still helps), it drops to another aux pattern.
For me, it’s not really so much of an issue, I’m mostly using lights in mild climates, so don’t wear gloves, perhaps that’s got something to do with it?
Different strokes and all that, my preferences:
Side switch, no built in charging
Side switch, built in charging with rubber port
Tail switch
Tail switch with side switch mode clicky.
I do agree rubber charge covers generally leave something to be desired- built in charging is sometimes pretty useful but I’ve had a port cover separate from the light (BLF LT1) which severely reduces the IP rating.
Charging port under the threads or head of the light looks okay but I’ve never owned a light with this feature.
Now that I have found a workaround for the USB port cover that feels the same as the power switch, I forgive the USB port for murdering my family member.
EDIT:
By they way, some may be thinking, “How is raccoon going to use the USB port if he put Gorilla tape over it?”
The answer is that I’m never going to use the USB port.
I much prefer charging cells in my Vapcell S4+.
+1 on that. The breathing LED does drain the battery a bit quicker. I found my Wuben F5, C2, and D1 all need topping off after a couple months (if the battey protection lvp circuit doesn’t trip first). It looks nice, but it’s a trade off for the standby drain.