This pack does look smaller than the two I have —- I’ve used the my 2500 amp to start my Avalanche a few times when I needed a new battery — 5.7/ V8 completely dead (dome lights wouldn’t come on) — started it right up —- I’ve also jump off my stepson Ford v8 diesel
One thing I want to note — I learned this the hard way — I have a Generac 15kw gas generator — the battery was dead so I used my jumper pack —BIG MISTAKE — yeah it started it right up (12v starter) — messed up the electronic governor — $230 lesson —— I’ve used it on riding mowers no issue
However, use it for the right job, which is not jump-starting an engine (that's a horrible use). For jump-starting, buy a lithium battery and some jumper cables (if you live up North like me), or better yet replace your weak car battery with the largest automotive battery that will fit in the space. Putting a really large Cold Cranking Amp battery in will put a lot less stress on it given it has a lot more capacity, so in general it will last longer, and no jump-starts needed.
If you live in a warm southern state, replace your car battery when it runs weak (use a carbon-pile tester). It's far more affordable to maintain your vehicle than band-aide the problem.
Either way, you can often greatly extend the life of your battery by using a high-end maintainer like the BatteryMinder. I also use a block heater in winter, but again I'm in a cold State.
The best ones will start a car while providing 400+ amps at 10 volts… for maybe up to 6 seconds. The worst ones are a hard fail. Not enough juice to even crank the vehicle. Hard to tell much about the Amazon deal without testing it.
In any case the 800 amp 1800 amp peak numbers are certainly super inflated. Kind of like the 9 million candlepower flashlights for 10 bucks.
The way I see it — If I get one jump start out of one of these packs, then it’s paid for itself
yeah it’s easy to say buy a new Big Battery so you never have trouble— they all wear out and most of the time they’ll start you up get you some where— then you come out of a store etc and it doesn’t start back up — these packs fit right under your seat and for the most part work great
My wife has a Infinity Q56 — It has an episode at least 3-4 times a year, where the truck won’t start — they’ve changed batteries, alternators and computer settings —better but still does it every so often — the 20 ft jumper cables were just a little short in a packed condo garage one time — She and the grandkids had checked out and were stuck in the garage— when the tow company got there — he used a Jumper Pack to start that big V8 right up
When she got home I had one waiting to go under her seat
Yeah…… I have the GB50 (1500Amps) of the NOCO boosthere . I Bought it a few months back for around $90. Now it is $150. A bit expensive but Im glad I got it. Very dependable and well built. I bought it because I have a friend that has a huge used car business. He uses his 6-8 times a day and he said he only charges his about once a week(30+ starts) even tho it usually doesnt need it.
Oh, they can, absolutely, but not necessarily so, especially if “weaker” (ie, higher resistance).
That’s why there are (or at least were; doesn’t seem to be any differentiation nowadays) jumper cables and booster cables.
Jumper cables were the short 0000000 gauge cables that you’d put right across the batteries to immediately jumpstart the car. Still got a set of those somewhere… something like ½in copper cables, friggin’ huge.
Booster cables were the longer, more flexible, and thinner cables where you’d put right across the batteries, let the “donor” car charge the “recipient” car for a while first while running, then you attempt to start the car.
As far as my Baseus, I’ve done both. When the battery’s so dead it won’t even unlock the doors, it’d need several “hits” to charge up the battery enough to start cranking. If “just” dead enough that it won’t crank, but would unlock the doors and the IP would light up with the key turned, yeah, connecting it up, going to the door, reaching in, and cranking, would start it right up.
I just gave it a chirp with the alarm and it sounds a bit weak, so I’ll have to hit it with the charger/conditioner soon.
Speaking of car battery chargers: ADPow car battery charger — it’s not on any big sale right now, though it is off its high from a year ago. $36. I actually paid $40 for it nearly 3 years ago. It did drop to $28 for a short while at one point. Anyway, my AGM battery had gone into deep discharge because I wasn’t driving my car very much and I let it sit too long, then left a cabin light on. After the jump I got, even driving the car for a good 30 minutes didn’t kick up the resting voltage back to normal. I thought the battery was done for. But I bought the ADPow to mitigate this problem in the future and with the hope of rescuing the battery.
The first round it took about 10 hours and came back with a “warning” indication of battery wear. So I ran it again… this time it took 14 hours and finished with a “Passed” indication. Voltage tests looked good. Car started with no problem. I made sure to drive the car a bit more, but still the resting voltage after an overnight of no use was still coming up a little low. So I ran it once more. This time it took about 10 hours and came back “Passed.” Now my resting voltage was 12.45v. And guess what? After letting the car sit for 2 weeks just to see what would happen, it came back as 12.36v. Definitely within normal. And now, 2.75 years later? I’ve used the ADPow charger just 3 times since my first usage, to “exercise” the battery to total full charge as a precaution. My battery still comes up resting between 12.35 and 12.40 volts. Car starts fine. I would have had to shell out $200 for a new AGM battery nearly 3 years ago, but the $40 I spent on the ADPow saved me that.
Believe me, in the beginning I looked at the brand “ADPow” I thought it would be another experimental Chinese brand with possibly dubious engineering. But no, these guys really did their homework. The charger is adaptive. It senses the health of the battery and performs different charge patterns depending upon condition. It definitely seems to work!
This charger has a lot of functions, included “repair” weak car battery. What I like is selectable charging current, it will fit with small battery inside UPS.
Keep in mind that this is for Lead-Acid or possibly AGM only. These do not support any lithium batteries. I would argue that if you have a sizable LA battery, you may want a charger with more than 8amp capacity. Generally you want to charge a deep cycle or car battery with closer to 20+ amps.
Yeah, I think I might pick up another to give as a gift. I’ve been very impressed with this thing. I also like how it includes a mini wiring harness with a plug, so you can quickly plug it in without having to fuss with getting a solid connection to battery terminals. The plug also has a firmly fitting cap, to keep debris & moisture out. I also tuck mine into the narrow space between the battery and the plastic case that protects it in the engine compartment.
I just wonder how much oomf those things have. Like I could go around all 4 tires and go topping off each one, and still the compressor would get quite toasty, so that’s quite a lot of energy going through. Bringing up a tire from like 5psi to 25-30 in limp-home mode could go fine as long as you watch the heat, but that’s for 12V, or 14V with the engine running, not ~4V.
Anyone ever have one of those, and bring up a tire from almost flat to driveable?
They are like a proportional miniaturization of a much larger thrower. It’s really neat, but… man, that 10180 cell is such a joke for that kind of throw. In 5 minutes you can completely drain it. I really think Lumintop would’ve done much better providing a 10440 tube by default with the 10180 cell and tube as optional. Anyway, it’s a fun light. I just wish it came with Anduril instead of NarsilM.
