I have to re-download the same hex for test?
No need to, if you already have the one with “20230615” on its name: the post you replied to was just for me to post the link to the source code for it.
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ok, i noticed that the system is redundant because I can switch on the aux with 7 and 8 clicks.
Are you agree?
The difference for example is that I only want to turn the Aux off and on.
From the 7c I have to go through the Off-Low-High-Blink cycle and with 8c I go from off to on directly without doing the cycle.
Or so I think.
If there isn’t a memory for aux you don’t need 8C for switch ON. You can use 7C.
But I I don’t understand if now with the last upgrade we have the memory. Because in my version there isn’t a memory for aux
With the first version (20230612) of this mod, if the auxes are off you can indeed switch them to low both by 7C and 8C with exactly the same result and behavior. Not sure I would call that “redundant”, tho, I think it’s more of a side effect derived of how we defined the 8C workings.
Yep, but you still need 8C to switch OFF. That’s why I wouldn’t call it ‘redundant’.
With the second version (20230615) there is indeed “memory”, or as I would rather call it, a save area for the previous value of the aux mode when you click 8C so that it can be switched back to it when you click 8C again.
I hope the above makes it clear.
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See if you can do whatever the iphone browser’s equivalent of “save link” is.
Only the D18 and discontinued lights.
I did some work on something a bit like this for strobe way back but never got it working reliably so I shelved it, but that was more for millisecond timing that was the difficulty. I already have a customisable beacon mode that would be reasonably easy to repurpose with a timing resolution ~50-100ms or so for both on and off (at the moment it has 100ms resolution for on but only 1s for off, but I’d like to make a few usability improvements to it as well), but it’d definitely be something I might have to background and test while working on other stuff too. How would 100ms (minimum) delay between flashes per click be, would that be granular enough or not? Inputting the number of blinks per minute is doable but slightly more complex to implement (no FPU so everything has to round to an integer for the delays, so resolution isn’t going to be perfect 1bpm steps in some cases and it might be potentially off by a consistent amount (in terms of milliseconds per second)) for some rates. What range would you be looking for?)
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“millisecond timing” sounds suspiciusly like an use case I’ve seen for amateur astronomy (asteroid occultation timing). If I’m not prying too much, can I ask whether that was the case?
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No, it was more personal curiosity as to how the strobe modes work, “how fast/slow can they go?”, and what level of time-sensitive code I could make work. Astronomy is very interesting but I don’t really participate myself (I don’t need more expensive hobbies 
)
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LOL yeah – I hear you loud and clear. Some friends have astro gear that cost like 2 or 3x the price of their cars – and these were not clunkers. Not my case, tho (having expensive astro gear, not clunkers 
)
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How I install the second version?
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Download the ZIP containing it from https://durval.com/xfer-only/anduril.wurkkos-ts10_-_multichannel_rev_721+8C_Quick_Aux_Switch_20230615_-_default_config.zip
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Open this ZIP and extract the HEX inside it (there’s just one)
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Flash the hex into the flashlight
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Come back here and report!
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And if you guys keep it up Ill end up with both and a TS10 just so I can play with the mods lol
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Quick thought, wish I could check it myself, but unfortunately I don’t have any lights you’ve been building this for… anyway, is your 8C on/off for aux only accessible in Advanced UI, or accross the board in Simple too?
Just thinking out loud, really… what I’m hoping to build blurs the lines between simple and advanced, removing a lot from Advanced and adding to both, and if I can steal 
as much code as possible, all the better lol.
I have one. it’s great!
big brother: TS21
little brother: TS10
both are awesome. but, I keep TS10 at home. TS21 is edc, along with SC21 Pro 
, both of them have integrated USB-C charger which is very useful, very practical for traveling, which I do a lot.
a lot of developments in this thread, interesting and exciting, I’ll read more when I get home.
and maybe test the mods too.
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if you really don’t have a TS10 yet, STOP EVERYTHING you are doing and order one right now!
Seriously, it’s the most fantastic flashlight EVER, specially for the price (under $20 with 14500 battery).
As u/IAmJerv uses to say on r/flashlight (not sure he’s on BLF too), “Everybody needs a TS10” – and I agree 100% with him.
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I can quickly build you an hex for any of the lights that are currently building for rev 721, which are, in alphabetical order:
emisar-2ch
emisar-d4sv2-219
emisar-d4sv2
emisar-d4v2-219
emisar-d4v2
noctigon-dm11-boost
noctigon-kr4-219b
noctigon-kr4-219
noctigon-kr4-2ch
noctigon-kr4
noctigon-kr4-nofet
sofirn-lt1s-pro
sofirn-sc21-pro
wurkkos-fc13
wurkkos-ts10
wurkkos-ts11
wurkkos-ts25
If you want any/all of them, just give me a holler and I will put a ZIP up on my webserver for you to download.
EDIT: decided to go ahead and made a zip file with all these hexes, anyone interested can download it here: https://durval.com/xfer-only/anduril.ALL_HEXES_THAT_BUILD_-_multi-channel_branch_rev_721+8C_quick_aux_switch_20230616.zip
Never tried as I configure my TS10 and FC13 to remove Simple mode and start directly in advanced but looking at the code, I can see it’s not enabled under SImple mode, just advanced.
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I would, but theres no real use for me… I won’t say I hate tail switches, I have many older lights with them that I use, but since the advent of side e-switches, I’ve avoided buying anything with a tail switch, even an e-switch.
And a big NO for me is no lanyard loop. I don’t pocket carry any light. Especially with that tail switch, I can’t simply (could but I’m sure it’d be a nightmare to model)3D print a new tail cap with a loop.
Add in that they are just SO small… I made an extension for my Sofirn SP10, to comfortably use it, and its quite a bit bigger than the TS10.
Love the shape and the tripple with aux especially on a 14500 scale, but its just been too many negatives for me to do it.
Good news, a few hours ago on IRC @YBF650 volunteered to test my 8C mod on their Noctigon KR4, we did and it worked! So one more light confirmed good with my mod, yay!
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I can also test it on the TS10, DM11-boost, D4Sv2 and d4v2, though I’m not too sure what driver it means by D4v2 (assuming the old red smooth driver)
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