I could see where this could possibly be a problem with a flashlight that has anodized threads converted to Cerafuse coating.
You would have to either know the thickness of the existing anodizing or have the Cerafuse coating ordered thin enough not to over size the thread tolerances. If you over shot the existing (anodized) thickness by .001” or 1 mil with the Cerafuse coating, that’s actually .002” over on the tolerances because you have two matting threads.
Maybe I could be over thinking this a little, it may not be that complicated. Just seems like coating the threads may need some precise measuring or you could end up with a tail cap or bezel that may not thread together easily.
Not only that but if you coat the male threads and not female threads, you'd be looking at trouble I would say. I think with this coating you would be better off leaving the threads bare
That’s about what I was thinking too. 
Hoping PilotPTK might shed some more light on this. Just incase someone decides to Cerafuse their whole light they don’t end up with just a knife sharpener.
Oh.. ps dale: please don't coat that light with anything
i doubt he would, but if he opened up the design for aluminum or other metal use, then white is an option
I would prefer black, sheds heat the best giving the most lumens (reduced sag), and would be made from real aluminum with a known top of the line coating
The Ti Texas Poker isn’t going anywhere!
I think something like this would have be done during the manufacturing process to ensure proper fitment of all the parts. The TP is so closely mated it wouldn’t tolerate any coating, of any kind. There’s just no tolerance built into it.
We discussed the black diamond coat at the time, but he didn’t have anything else to go with it and trying to fit a single item into their batch schedules is not likely or cost effective.
I think everyone gets black confused. Seems to me it radiates heat about the same as any other color, it just reflects differently. (Edit: measuring this heat with an IR gun is based on reflection or emissivity, as it is reading the bounce.) Does your silver light not get hot in your hand? Blue? Purple? If there’s a difference it would take sophisticated equipment to measure it, not something that would matter in the real world. My Ti light gets hot, takes it longer to spread the heat around but spread it around it does! Copper fins and all. So does my silver highly polished SS light, and my other Ti lights. Too hot to hold is too hot to hold, happens long before a color change would have effect. Purely unscientific reasoning based on real life experience.
A black object will absorb heat from the Sun faster than a white object. But…put a hot plate in direct contact with the bottom of both objects and measure radiance from the top, they’ll both be radiating heat from that hot plate as it’s now a matter of the metal conducting heat away from the source. The black one might reach critical temps faster, but both will burn your hand at about the same point. Go ahead pro peeps, shoot me down on this one. Then light a match to your black flashlight vs a gold one and tell me which one you held longest. Last night we lost power. When you need light for an hour, precious seconds aren’t really relevant. When some idiot is doing burnouts in your driveway, Lumens matter! The S2200 was happy to oblige and the idjit in question knew full well he was being ID’d, simply didn’t give a hoot!
Which brings up another question on Cerafuse, as it acts as an insulator I wonder if it retards heat dispersion?
Noo! I think it looks better polished Ti. Some lights do suit the matte white look though.
To prove black radiates better than white, you have to eliminate thermal transmission thru direct contact with air, your hand, etc. by using a vaccum chamber. In a perfect vaccuum, there’d be the biggest difference but with molecules carrying away nearly all the surface heat, there’s little left to radiate. “Radiator” is sort of a misnomer in most cases.
Just a thought. Feel free to shoot me down if I’m wrong.
Many’s the time that the flashlight is needed when it’s stormy and raining, oops! power outage! Go outside and find what knocked out the lights and a cold wind driven rain lashes at your face….and keeps your light nice and cool. The real world.
Other times, that leak under the vehicle on a hot humid night that has not a breeze to help a guy out. Bad time for a direct drive monster! Can’t just lay it on the ground running 3500 lumens and change a flat tire either, no mercy for the merciless. Black or silver, doesn’t really matter, in the real world the facts seem to have a way of working against ya. Try as you may to figure all the angles. There’s almost always a twist that defies you to get a step ahead.
I’m glad to have the driver back in my K3, Lo Med Hi works for me!! 
If I have a choice, I always take silver because it’s easier see in the dark. Of course, that might work against me if I didn’t wanna be seen.
HA isn’t that important to me and colored lights look like crap when they get scratched and fade.
When you don’t want to be seen, stuff it in your pants for that un Hombre Muy Malo look in case you ARE seen.
Sorry to drag up an old thread. I have a question about anodisation that I feel silly asking but I just really need to know the answer.
As far as I am aware anodisation acts as an electrical insulator so you can do things like locking out; however, these non-anodised lights - does it mean the current is flowing through the full body of the flashlight to include where it is being held? I’m just thinking to myself these lights can draw several amps, and if I remember reading this somewhere currently the BLF A6 will draw close to 6 amps on turbo. Is this able to shock a human, or does the body’s resistance negate this? I have never seen this to be the case so I guess it’s not an issue, but it would be wonderful if someone could confirm and explain for me.
Yes, the current flows through the body of the flashlight and yes, the anodizing is an electrical insulator.
But insulation is not needed for the human body in these cases. Current is Voltage divided by Resistance (imagine the voltage pushing the current and the resistance preventing the flow). With the given resistance of the human body and the voltage of our flashlights (mostly 4.2V, occasionally 8.4V, very rarely above) the current that actually runs through our body does no harm. IIRC over 40V it starts getting possibly dangerous for a human. So even flashlights with bare aluminum, copper or brass body are possible.
My recollection is that HAIII is only available in some of the more muted colors (black, brown, dark green natural, etc.)
The really bright colors (bright blue, red, pink, yellow, etc.) are all HAII. So if you see a very brightly colored flashlight it’s definitely not HAIII.
I could be wrong about this though.
Fantastic. Thank you for the prompt reply!
Tell me if I’m doing this wrong here.- I’m using this wiki link Electrical injury - Wikipedia that gives the resistance of the human body from 100000 Ohms through to 500 Ohms depending on conditions, which makes sense. So at 4.2 Volts and 100000 Ohms, the current would be 0.000042 Amps making it through the skin?
Yes. So the major part of the current still goes through the flashlight with its much lower resistance.
From the site you quoted:
“It is sometimes suggested that human lethality is most common with alternating current at 100–250 volts; however, death has occurred below this range, with supplies as low as 42 volts.”
I own a Bare BLF A6 which, with the right cell, pulls >7A … and I still dare to use it with bare hands. :partying_face:
One would have to try very very hard to get electrocuted by a single-cell non-anodized flashlight while it’s fully assembled. The situations where it’s possible also generally work if you simply hold onto a plain metal rod.
However, the light could get an internal short and become very very hot or even explode, in bad circumstances. Especially with multi-cell lights in series. However, when people shorted the Cometa, it didn’t result in any injuries. It had the battery shorted directly to itself, and IIRC the worst result was a melted spring.
Short answer: lack of anodizing doesn’t significantly increase the risk. Risk is extremely low (virtually zero) either way.
Spring works as last resort fuse(outside of cell PTC), but for people bypassing the spring this will not be the case. That might be the reason why no manufacturer do this in stock lights…
Guys, thank you for explaining this all to me. I appreciate it massively. :student: