yeah well if the most recent one i recieved works ill measure at the tailcap and see what its running at…. if it works the other one still needs doing so there is at least one to do 
No worries, I just need time to work out which lights “need” a kick up the arse, then I can plan how many custom drivers and how many stock kd drivers I have to order…. Plus I want some u2 xm-l’s on 20mm stars…. I just got a keygos m10 that’s only taking 2.5a off a keygos cell (not tested the imr current, but it looks just about as bright and is definitely not an east-092 driver :cry: ) that one is begging for an e1320 driver tbh, otherwise I’m really happy with it. At least all the o-rings seem good so its only short a lube and respectable driver……
Is the ke-5 pill alu or brass? I really hope its brass or else I’ll have to try matches Ali soldering guide. The m10 uses a threaded brass retainer that I was very impressed with when I stripped it this morning, just less impressed with the 2.5a tailcap current and blinkies.
i think the pill is alu, this is a picture of the driver and the emmiter……… i dont know if you have taken one to bits before but i belive they are a pain…… :~
Ok, the driver has a thin brass ring around it, the star appears to be 16mm…… You may end up with my spare u2 too……
I should be able to strip it down, after all, some slave thre it together in China…
i think the driver is a push fit so im presuming it the led were de soldered and removed you could simply push it out with something rather than spending ages trying to pry it out. just had an email saying batteries will be in the post tomorrow…… cant wait to see how that turns out :) even if its not that at least i will know and its not like iv wasted money as the batteries will always get used :) if the parts are available it could be a really good light…. u2 and 3.4a
8) I put a u2 in a c8 pill but its just not working out, needs a 20 mm star, therefore the 16mm u2 May have found a home. I’m intrigued, and if It’s soldered and glued, I’m not seeing removing it… So yeah, you may get a u2 model back. I honestly can’t wait to see how this all turns out tbh. :cowboy_hat_face:
No, no, a properly driven KE-5 is about 810ish OTF, no less than 755—and I may be understating as mine burns at 3.8 amps. I’ve compared mine with other powerhouses enough to be confident in saying so. With a Sanyo 2600 unprotected, mine is behind only the 980L and X8, and that by a slim shade. It’s a top-notch light. I’ll never get rid of mine.
But, Adys, what I’d do is use one of your KE bodies and convert an STL-V2 into a pocket super-thrower, as suggested.
Fair enough Joe, I didn’t want to over guesstimate, so I was a little short. How does it handle the heat at 3.8a? If its ok then the 3.4a (9x 380ma 7135’s if I have that correct?) Should be good yes? :bigsmile:
well the unprotected 18650s i ordered should be here tomorrow so ill know then about the second light to see if its the batteries…… ill also try them in the other but im not really holding much hope up for it working… then its onto driver swap time in 2 0r 3 weeks time 
>>>>>> to see if its the batteries……
It probably isn’t the batteries, but with me it is.
I have problems with ALL protected batts (except 5 TFFs for some reason) with the Sk98, Ke-5 and HD2010. I don’t have probs with protected 26650s for the HD2010, only the 18650s. With protected cells, those lights do NOT work. Even with Xtars. They flicker and go on and off, switch to blinking mode after a few seconds on high, all sorts of craziness. But the shared symptom is with protected cells: I click the clickie; there is a bright flash (high mode I assume) and then it goes into disco mode. If I keep playing with any of these lights, I can sometimes get ’em to work on low or medium power. But I don’t bother. I just use unprotected.
Better batteries anyway than the Tffs: Sanyos, Panasonics, Samsungs, Sony. They work STELLAR. First time every time. I’m totally not concerned with safety with GOOD unprotected cells in a one-cell light. I bet an unprotected Samsung is way more safe than the best TFF on the planet. IMO anyway. Two-cell lights, I always use protected.
well for £10 for two good unprotecteds it has to be worth a punt i had issues with xtar 18700’s in my olight m3x, turned out they were a couple mm too long and the result was a flashing/non working light. if the unprotecteds dont work ill just get the driver swap done to see if its that… thats what i think it is to be honest and at least ill still have two good unprotecteds to use once i finally get them working…… which i will!!!
lol Well, I wouldn’t run mine for longer than 5 minutes on high, and you wouldn’t want to for longer than 3 of those 5, believe me! And with an unprotected driving it, it might burn up the light and/or cause a fire.
But then again, in my lumen output dogmatism, I failed to take into account the quality control issues and differences in build quality. I just received two more KE-5s to sell, and they are both burning strong at somewhere around 2.8 (haven’t checked yet, but I suspect they are based on output). The reflectors are different, too, giving a different beam. Still very impressive, but maybe 700 OTF. I don’t think anymore.