The problem with the V10R and the V11R is that they used grease in the variable control ring and that grease will eventually dry up and create a ‘hitch’ in the movement.
It happened to my V10R and it has happened with my V11R. The grease in my NIB V11R is no doubt dried up a bit, but I’m OK with that.
I love my V11R and wish I could have gotten another tan V10R, but no dice.
The lights have flaws, but back in 2011 and 2012, they were state of the art, but times keep on changin’.
Chris
I don’t watch Luke’s channel anymore, but I’m happy to see his content is still relevant all these years later. This video in particular turned me off to all Sunwaymans, and Battery Junction too (heard through the grapevine that they backend Sunwayman, and I’m tempted to believe them with how convoluted it is to contact BJ’s own customer service).
Thats why you dont buy from companies that dont have proven customer service
Unless its a light you can easily fix yourself
yes have same contact problems with V11R and is very hard unscrew the AA tube extension for check the problem and access on the driver,how you have do?
Today there is no reason for buy expensive light with propietary drivers and not support
You are so right. (sorry this is a bit of a read, feel free to skip it lol)
I won a Xtar light on here (TC28 1500). Granted it was free, but it should have still worked. Bear in mind this is a £100 light - not a $5 one.
1st one arrived (this was a couple of years ago- you’ll see the relevance of this in a second) didn’t work. Took a whole load of wrangling, over a long time, but eventually a replacement arrived.
This worked, fantastic! after about a week (sparsely used) it started doing this ‘drop’ in output, so you’d have it on highest, after a second or less it would drop by about 50%. There is a guy on youtube who highlights this and I have read about it on several forums etc, so it isn’t isolated.
I asked about it direct to Xtar a few times and got completely ignored, so it stayed in my drawer unused.
Now we get to the relevance of it being years ago…… ok so I get a FW3A, the second (unknown to me at the time) with an internal isolating tube……. My FW3A worked fine, but I started reading about this tube causing FW3A’s not to work, then thought I’d have another look at the first Xtar light, it has this tube. Now I realise this, I have made the original light I got work, it was that tube not long enough/making contact.
NO ONE at Xtar even suggested such a thing, despite like 20 emails back and forth.
Fantastic I thought, BUT within literally days it’s doing the same drop in output as the replacement………… wtf!
Says to me this model was never fit for sale, let alone for £100 - more shocking was the service, and complete lack of knowledge of their own product and it’s faults. Either that, or they just didn’t want to admit their £100 light is a sack of poo. I ended up pulling the led’s out and binning the lights, they had odd dual switches on the tail and the heads would not come off rendering them useless for modding/replacing parts.
To say I wasn’t impressed was an understatement - I saw the brand, and the pricepoint as about as premium as it gets (without getting silly) and to date is it the worst light I ever owned, even a $5 one was better - it may be cheap tat, but at least it’s reliable cheap tat!
Sunwayman used to be my cup of tea. I liked their lights for a long time.
I also know that DBSAR has less luck with them for a long time. It's sad their lineup isn't as fool/bulletproof as they should be.
I do hope however, that SWM will start producing some new interesting lights...
Yeh man, I remember a thread about this some while back. I chimed in that I had terrible luck with Sunwayman. I also said never again. Guess what? I never agained…. 
Sunwayman is not good IMO Terrible customer service also. :confounded:
On the other hand:
Sunwayman’s anodizing and overall build quality is pretty nice even if the electronics fail. At $20, if it craps out on you at least you’ve now got a nice host. :heart_eyes:
I agree there, their host quality is good, but their electronics & QC of the internals are junk. I will likely try to shoehorn in a much more reliable better 105C Q-Lite driver in the C22C body, add a 2-way switch, and a tail clicky.