Any idea what this light is?

LED Flashlights – General Info
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Listing has been ended by seller as there was a error in the listing :~

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Ebay is always such a bad idea ...

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I’m pretty sure it’s a flashlight. S)

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Hi,

Received this light today. Will try to post some pics later.

I’m not sure if it is the Ultrafire UF980L. That thread that was linked earlier said they were seeing 4 amps? I just tested, and looks like I’m getting 1.47 amps on high mode.

Plus, this light has 5 modes, including strobe and SOS, and doesn’t have the SS tailcap (just a black tailcap).

Other than that, it does look like the Ultrafire UF980L, but , I’m still not sure what this light is.

It does have “Ultrafire” printed on the side, but no other markings.

Edit: BTW, the seller appears to have been Banggood. Light came wrapped in bubble with tape that said “Banggood” on it. Maybe they have a warehouse in California?

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yes they do have warehouse in CA for certain items though…
mine doesn’t go to 4 Amp… the original driver is very weak.
i had it mod’ed to 4 Amp… now it’s awesome :smiley:

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It looks more like the one in this thread:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1800-lumen-CREE-T6-XM-L-XML-T6-LED-5-Mode-Aluminum-Flashlight-Torch-Black-/120945510931?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item1c28ea0a13

“Cree XML-T6” on one side, and “UltraFire” on the other side.

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yeah i think i bought it from them for $20 if i remember correctly

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Is there a mod thread for this light then?

Edit: Also, what is the voltage range? Can it take 2 of the 123 batteries?

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I think it’s actually this light, from Banggood:

Jim

Edit:

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sorry, never tried with 2 123 batteries…but it can take 4 AAA batteries :bigsmile:
it has odd size driver…

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So, does anyone have some EASY mods to improve this, for a relative newbie?

I have some Efest IMR batteries, and tried them, but still was seeing 1.47 amps tailcap current.

I checked/looked at the pill (haven’t taken it out yet). From the front, it looks very much like a C8 pill, but a narrower rim, with no holes (for screwing). Also, it looks like in one place on the whitish cover, there’s a notch, probably for prying the cover off.

When I look at the tube end of the head, there are two holes for screwing. Also, that end of the pill looks much narrower than from the front end.

I have some 16340s, which is why I was asking about trying them instead of the 18650.

Jim

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This might be it: Review: Aleto / UltraOK 1x 26650 XM-L T6 Flashlight: An HD2010 challenger? (picture heavy)

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Hi,

I’ll take a look.

FYI, it doesn’t look like using 2x16340 batteries would help. I tried the 4xAAA carrier, which measured about 5.4V, in the light, and the tailcap current started out about 1.54 amps, then went back to 1.47 amps steady-state.

Are Eneloops current limited, or, what is the max current that they can supply?

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Hi,

I found that another seller, cenn2010, that is selling these also. I think it’s actually the same seller, because the tracking showed it came from Compton, CA, same as the 1st one, and the light was wrapped in in bubble with tape that said “banggood.com”.

So, I bought another one, so that I could have one as a “sacrificial lamb”, i.e., that I could break (not on purpose), and still have a working one. That arrived yesterday.

So I did what someone else suggested, open it up and “think” about it. I’ve seen the mods with filling in the pill, and Fujik’ing a new driver to the original driver, but (a) I don’t have Fujik yet and (b) I’m still so new that I get to do somethng dumb :)…

I had seen one post that mentioned direct driving the emitter, and the response was something like “I wouldn’t”, but like I said, I get to do something dumb, plus I’m guess that I’m a bit lazy…

So, I decided I want to try a direct drive mod, but then the “lazy” part kicked in :), plus I don’t have a spare 20mm contact board, so here’s what I did:

1) I unsoldered the red and blue wires from the original driver board

2) I melted some solder on the bottom/negative copper area that goes around the battery-facing side of the driver board. I tried to do this as close to one of the existing notches at the edge of the driver board.

3) I melted some solder at the bottom of the spring. Again, I tried to do that so that at the point were it was closest to the opposite notch on the edge of the driver board.

[You all can probably see where this is going by now :)…]

4) I soldered the blue wire from the emitter to the solder point on the outer edge of the driver board.

5) I soldered the red wire from the emitter to the solder point on the spring.

6) I pushed the driver board back into place, running the red and blue wires through the nearest notch on the driver board.

7) I tested, connecting a battery +/- to the sprint and unanodized part of the pill part. Light lit.

8) Put the light back together, and tested, and it worked.

I measured current at the tailcap (without the switch) and it was showing ~3.20 amps!

Compared the beam (on our white ceiling, about 12’ - 6’, so about 6’, or 2 yds, of the modded vs. unmodded light. The beam from the modded light definitely looks brighter, but also, it looks slightly smaller. Can anyone explain that?

Why would the beam of the modded light look smaller?

I’ll try to post a side-by-side pic.

Jim

Edit: I know that the circuitry on the original driver board is taking up some of that 3.20 amps.

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Here are some beamshots I took with the unmodded and modded light:

Control (note the blue light - a bug light):

Unmodded:

Modded - Direct Drive:

Off-topic - Just for kicks - a C8 with an XM-L U2 P60 Drop-in:

Jim

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Thanks for the comparison pics! A bit OT… C8 with P60 drop-in??? Could you please elaborate? I was under the impression that the C8 is a different form factor altogether….

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I wrote about that light somewhere awhile ago… I forgot where. Basically, awhile ago, I wrapped one of the SolarForce XM-L drop-ins I had, wrapped it in some aluminum foil, and shoved it down into a C8 that originally had a Q5 LED. It’s funny, because, ever since, I keep buying more lights trying to beat it :)…

Edit: That “experiment” was what actually got me interested in the TF-R2 on the other thread(s).

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ah yes… i do remember that thread… thanks! too bad there isn’t something like jb weld that would work for something like this….

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If FastTech starts offering the TF-R2, that would also do the trick :)!

BTW, I just got some different type of “thermal tape” in last week, and am planning/hoping to try that instead of the aluminum foil. But then again, the foil seems to be working pretty well. The drop-in is definitely stable in the C8, and I don’t know if I could get it out of the light now, even if I wanted to.

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^ Must be some kind of mod to make the P60’s fit. This is the first I’ve heard of it. I’m intrigued!