Sounds familiar. I’ll look around for the stuff tomorrow and give the paper/glass idea a shot.
There are other tricks you can experiment with for the jeweler's rouge... a damp sponge (it's water-based), possibly crumpled/softened newspaper (damp also), or even just your fingers. You can feel a lot that way that you can't when using something else as an applicator/pad.
Well you can just not skip grits and do it efficienty or you can take forever if you have forever. The end result will indeed be the same but you will also have lost 4x the labour.
You're missing something here. Did you see the post with the pictures, and the part where I do razor blade + 600 grit + jeweler's rouge, no stress or fuss or agony, takes something like 30 minutes start to finish? All that multiple grades do-not-skip-one-or-it'll-be-crap is unnecessary.
And even better, if it's only for the thermal properties and not to be pretty, you can completely skip the rouge and stop at the 600 grit wet step, and it works exactly the same.
30 minutes? Really?
Can the razor method work with non-flat surface (e.g flashlight body)?
No, flat stuff only, since this is meant to make stuff flat either for thermal performance or for being pretty (a side effect of being really flat is that it's also ooh-aah shiny).
Hold the blade vertical, as you move it let it lay over a little so it glides smooth and doesn't chatter.
scrape scrape scrape, turn, scrape scrape scrape, turn, etc.
Ready for wet sanding. Easy. Don't try to turn this into rocket surgery, cause it isn't.
If the parts are going to use non-curing paste (secured with screws or just clamped by the bezel/lens) I stop after the wet sanding, if it's going to use a hard-setting epoxy like JB Weld I do the full high polish thing, because the parts can be separated later if need be with just a twist from a pocket screwdriver.