You might also want to test multiple Duraloops just in case you tested a bad cell. The fact is that Duraloops are not NEARLY as bad as that test shows. If they were, they would be garbage heap batteries that nobody wants.
Well I owe apologies to everyone and especially Duraloop. For some reason unknown to me the Accucell is reading about a .40 voltage error in the 3 amp discharge graph and about .20v in the 1 amp discharge graph. I checked the cell voltage while discharging the cell noting the displayed charger voltage and the voltages the 87V was reading at the same time. The 8150 is reading about a.40v difference. I have calibrated the charger a long time ago and still reads spot on in the voltage calibration mode. Checked the current being drawn from the cell, that was also close to what the 87V was reporting.
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I never new this problem existed. So I guess my discharge graphs are junk unless you add about .40v to the reading.
The good news is, duraloop’s look and act exactly like eneloops in my discharge graphs if you account for the error. They very closely match sanyo’s discharge graph. Under a 3 amp load the cell started off at 1.3v and held there for a minute or so. So I guess duraloop’s do have very good current capability’s same as eneloop.
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Are Duraloop’s really Eneloop’s? I have yet to see anyone disprove it. My conclusion is they are truly Eneloop’s (if you test them properly :zipper_mouth_face: ).
I’ve been searching on-line for Duraloop AAA cells but typing it in the searchbar of major online stores turn negative results.
I would appreciate it very much if someone could post a link to these cells (claimed to be re-badged Eneloops of which I believe so) where I could buy online? Thanks
There is no such thing as Duraloop, it’s just a nick name because alot of people believe they contain a eneloop inside.
You are looking for 800mah Duracell staycharged AAA’s with a white top and say made in japan.
Oh, I see. Just saw Duracell AA a lot cheaper than AAA.
last time I looked on ebay, several sellers where selling 4 to 10 packs of the duracell’s for a very reasonable price. Probably bought from the target clearance sale. Still a good deal though.
Looks to me like excessive resistance in the leads/battery holder, and it’s not hard to work out how much. The difference between your 1A and 3A curves is about 0.34V, and Ohm’s law tells us that this is the result of 0.17R in the test setup. Thicker leads will help, but to really fix this problem you need remote voltage sensing, not sure if your charger can do this though.
I only run a couple AA lights and those seem to like the Duraloops better than the Eneloops - it’s probably just due small sample variation, but does this mean the trade rate has changed? 0:)
That’s very good to hear!
Now you can swap them haha 
The funny thing is I can go into calibration mode where the cell voltage is checked, the voltage displayed is spot on to
the 87V. I calibrated the charger several years ago with a lesser quality meter, before I even owned the 87V. Yet its still spot on.
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When the charger is put in calibration mode all the same wires and connections are used as in discharging the cell. So all the resistance has been calibrated in, reading the correct voltage. Its when the cell goes under a load that the voltage doesn’t read the same. So does anyone know what’s going on with the charger.
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Has anyone checked there hobby charger displayed voltage against a DMM voltage while discharging?
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I know the margin of error, but how do I get that margin fixed in the charger or in logview.
I know I can use logviews manipulate data to change the values to the correct ones. But I would have to change the voltage recorded for every 2 seconds. That would take forever.
Is there a easier way or is it time for a new icharger. Or will I be in the same boat again.
I had some time tonight charging and discharging an eneloop 1500X and a duracell duraloop 400X. I have a Icharger 106b+ and charged them both to 1.62 volts at 1.5 amps then discharged them both at 3.0 Amps down to .80 volts letting them cool between charging and discharging. The duraloops came in at 1839 mah and the eneloop at 1895 mah. I only tested 1 of each and I hope this helps. When I get more time I will test more of these cells. O and THANKS to a member for the duraloops -JC-.
Hi BIG -P,
Would you mind checking the charger displayed voltage against a DMM voltage reading across the cell when doing a discharge test. If a icharger can read the correct voltage as the actual cell voltage checked with a DMM, I may just have to get one.
1.62V may be hurting the cells, my eneloops seem to terminate with a smart charger around 1.50-1.52V
That does seem a little high, as my c9000 goes roughly to 1.48 volts. I just checked both batteries when I got home and the duraloop measured 1.414 volts and the eneloop is at 1.419 volts at rest from last night. Then I quickly charged the eneloop at 2.0 amps (to 1.62 volts because that's what my Icharger charges to) and then let rest for one half hour and got 1.465 volts. Then i checked the internal resistance of both batteries and the eneloop was at 51m ohm and the duraloop is at 50m ohm. The duraloops SEEM like a eneloop so far, at least to me. O and I checked them with 2 DMM's that I have.
The higher the charging current, the higher the voltage has to be to achieve that current. What charging current where you using for the c9000.
On my C9000 it never (seemed) to matter which charge current I charged them at as it always peaked at AROUND 1.47-1.50 volts. I will put them on my C9000 tomorrow and get back to you on this. But so far I think what people paid for the duraloops got a good deal. 
At the $6.05 a pack that was a pretty good deal. At the $3.65 price it was a great deal. I shouldn’t have to buy anymore for years.
The voltage applied to the cell while charging is what will increase with the higher current. The resting voltage (measured after a hour or two off the charger) should measure close to the same.
after a day or two after charging i find 1.37V means full, i charge at 500mA
Just some comment related to the Target Duracell/Eneloop debacle.
I was running the AAA Duracell’s in my Tank007 E09. I would get about a day of runtime, based on my usage. The Duracells would show a nominal 550mah accepted charge on a Maha C9000 charger. So, said I, lets try the Eneloops, and see what will be.
The Eneloops seem to have more runtime and usually accept about 740mah on the Maha. YMMV