So, I was looking at some drop ins at intl-outdoor looking for some nice NW ones as mine has mysteriously malfunctioned.
So I have 2 empty P60 hosts waiting for a drop in to make them whole again (thumbs up for BrBa reference?) and I realised after searching KD and fasttech, that I couldn’t find any updated drop ins with NW emitters.
I wanted an XPG2 NW drop in, and an XML2 NW drop in. The XinTD V4 has the option of a NW XML2, and I was wondering - should I wait for a new drop in, or should I just get 2 XML NW emitters?
Most likely will just be used for detective work such as; “Where are my keys?”, and “Where is the remote?”. Also for checking the yard and around the house. Most likely will not be used for far distances.
Unfortunately I don’t have the know-how with much of the electrical modding.
I don’t have my own soldering iron or any of those tools. I’ve always had a curiosity, but never had the resources to put it to use so I didn’t progress any further.
Maybe if you have any recommendations for instruments for a beginner modder? Please assume I have no knowledge of the subject.
Your minimum CRI makes it a bit hard to find for LED MCPCBs but there's this from intl-outdoor which is pretty much the cheapest XM-L2 NW 16mm I could find. (No idea of CRI) smooth and OP pills from FT
2.6A 3/5 mode single-cell 2-grp driver also from FT.
3.04A 4-grp driver from intl-outdoor.
You might want to practice soldering if this is your first time.
Basically,
Thread wires through the brass pill holes. (on the side that the driver will fit)
Solder wires to CORRECT terminals on the LED MCPCB.
Add fujik, or similar thermal silicone to the hollow section of pill and a tiny smudge on below the LED MCPCB.
Press fit driver into pill. (you may have to do some twisting so that wires don't stick out the other end)
Solder small spring on to inner contact pad.
Connect the outer pads to the brass pill with solder.
Add the circular paper washer sticker thingy on top of the LED. (after a centering ring if there is one)
Screw reflector on.
CAREFULLY use a small screwdriver to centre LED if it didn't come with a centering ring.
Add larger spring to brass pill (just push it in)
I'm suprised someone hasn't made a photo walkthrough.
Good luck.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’m going to get a move on learning these things. I watched a few videos on soldering and safety.
While I choose which ones to buy, does anyone know of any bright nw/ww XML/xpg drop ins?
I’ve got the nw from IO, and just want to get something different, otherwise I’ll just get another OP nw from IO.
Don’t really want to waste time getting something which isn’t bright.
I’ll chuck these in for now, and make my own soon.
Also ouchyfoot, the warmwhite (90+ cri) is only rated at 500 lumens and nw/cw is at 800 lumens - this leads me to believe that they are mildly driven. I would like something a bit more - around 3A.
I'm working on a P60 pill now at 3.5A, XP-G2 R5 1A de-domed/SinkPAD. Even de-domed with a Pana PD it's doing in the 500's for lumens with SMO reflector in a cheap 501B host, throw is about 46 kcd I believe. However, those T3's will be lower lumens, but think you're right - that customlites P60 is probably 2.8A at the max. I can probably get the #'s a little higher with a Samsung 20R and copper braid in the tailcap spring. $40 is a bit high - maybe I should go in the biz .
"5" tints even if they are NW they are not looking like 3C at all, they are almost warm. And those CREE 90+ CRI are orange almost which many find too warm.
Tom E, your drop in is using an xpg2, the custom lite is using an xml2. Their drop in has probably less than 2A plus you’re using CW. And I too thought $40 was quite steep, considering a decent IO drop in costs about $18 incl. shipping.
500 lumens and 46kcd is pretty insane for a p60 sized light. Are you using an AR coated lens? I just ordered a few for my solar force hosts. Love the L2M and L2P. Perhaps you could set me up… Again? Only if you had the time though.
Hikelite, I’ve enough cw emitters and don’t mind trying out a 90+ cri warm white if it has a decent output. I do expect it to be quite yellow/orange like an incandescent. I don’t mind that tint at all - after all, I grew up with them!
Yes, I'm think'n I got good results, hope my meter battery is not dying again -- I'll go double check now. It does get really hot though quickly, but that's a good thing... My cheapo 501B host (from sun-usb.com) I spent $4 for looks like I can't even get the lens out, so no - not an AR lens. I ordered/got 4 and one came with a cracked lens too. Maybe the glass is so thin and cheap it does better than AR ? Gotta get a better P60 host.... Where'd you get the SolarForce's from?
Here. Top left there’s a drop down box which allows you to see all the available models. I also got their lantern stand, I don’t even need one. But maybe it will come in handy when I’m fishing.
The #'s from the KP battery are better than expected considering the tailcap reading. Thinking amps to the LED is better, and maybe getting good spring compress/contact with the longer protected cell - not sure what's going on there exactly.
What is the Samsung 20Q/20R battery? Is it some kind of IMR/INR/ICR?
I’m surprised to see it outdo a KeepPower 3400, which is basically just a Panasonic NCR18650B.
But that aside, a P60 having 47kcd is mind boggling. Not to mention it has just under 600 lumens at 30 seconds. Although it probably wouldn’t last longer than 5-10 minutes due to heat sag it competes with much bigger reflectored lights (looking at the HD2010, Jacob A60, SkyRay STL-V2).
I personally think the L2M and L2T are the best looking, going to order a L2T soon. All the solarforce p60 hosts have quite mild heatsinking fins though which may pose a problem.
I don't think it will last 5 minutes near that kcd level - think I recorded the # about 10-15 secs into it, but continuously drops a little. I got a SinkPAD and a 18 gauge copper disc inside the pill, but it's not enough for sure. There's nothing to the crappy 501B host I'm using.
Maybe the internal resistance is what causes the big difference.
I don’t think the host does much, except cooling. And the 501B looks pretty bad (as in not good). The Solarforce ones aren’t any better, but it wouldn’t hurt to get one if you’re also going to get a proper coated lens.
I was thinking maybe with the solarforce M3 head it would have better cooling, but I’m not sure how it works, and if it does work with a regular drop in.
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My cheapo 501B host (from sun-usb.com) I spent $4 for looks like I can't even get the lens out, so no - not an AR lens. I ordered/got 4 and one came with a cracked lens too. Maybe the glass is so thin and cheap it does better than AR