I don’t know how anyone can determine if a battery is authentic or not based on a button top since it’s added by a middle man. And it’s not as if a store is constrained to always using a specific one. It’s all just speculation based on unreliable data.
We all know that. But I’m pretty sure if he asks the guy that is selling them to do proper discharge analysis tests, he’ll be told 2 words in reply.
So, he’s asking do they look real. Well, yeah, they do, since that’s all we’ve got to go on. But for all we know, they could just be loaded with sand on the inside.
In addition, I am not making any judgement at all as to whether those 30Q’s are real or not. I have no idea by looking at a picture.
I am trying to help him determine whether those ‘button tops’ in his picture will even fit in the battery carrier. From what I can see in the picture I have serious doubts that they will.
Just tested Banggood “button” tops - they do fit in GT carrier and GT fires up. The batteries on the OP picture look exactly like my Banggood 30q’s. In the past I have played to measure the IR of Banggood and Nkon button tops and Nkon had lower IR and smaller buttons, though not always exactly centered.
Yeah, the Banggood button tops are attached with a single strip of metal that is spot-welded to the positive terminal, and then they’re just pushed down into place and held there with the external wrap. (I took one apart to see.) Not the best for keeping down resistance, but it works okay. And they’re able to power any of my high-drain lights that require button tops (including carriers).
If he’s really concerned about resistance, he could always use flat tops and put his own solder blobs on them. Just make sure to do it safely.
These are photos of my Button top 30Q’s from Banggood.
They tested well on capacity and have been working nicely in flashlights I have that need “Button top” cells.
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