Isn’t the the head smaller though on the L19?
Vapor-Light T9R that doesn't exist yet, is 64 mm head, while the L19 is 60 mm.
No comparison with the K1 because the K1 has a much bigger 72 mm head diam, no tail power switch.
Also, the L19 is using a CC buck driver with no PWM. It's listed compatible with two RCR123's so has to buck down the voltage.
I'm defending the AceBeam L19 here, odd for me, but the differences between the supposed T9R and real K1 are significant and contribute to the higher cost of the L19. A buck driver that probably needs to produce 8-9 amps to get the #'s they are quoting is not cheap to do. They could be 'cheating' a little by having a direct FET output channel for turbo, I dunno, but still if you run it at lower levels, you get the benefits of a no-PWM efficient buck driver.
I have to agree here. I prefer a buck driver to an Fet, especially if well designed and regulated. I tested the L17 and L18 and really liked the output regulation. The L18 did very well and has a CC driver, no PWM,l with excllent regulation and performance. For it’s size (60mm) the L19 is a great light. Acebeam will undoubtedly issue a code for a discount soon as well so the high price will be easier to stomach.
The T9R looks pretty real to me. According to their website it’s in stock.
The T9R has a buck driver with >90% efficiency as well, only the SBT90.2 version has an additional FET-turbo. Also, the T9R has a built-in 2A USB-C charger, the L19 does not. The T9R has bypassed silver-plated BeCu springs and a stainless steel bezel. The “aggressive strike bezel” of the L19 looks like anodized aluminum to me. They’re making a mystery out of the “advanced” LED they’re using instead of just specifying it, no matter which white flat Osram it is, it’s not that expensive.
Remember, it’s all opinions.
The L19 looks like a nice light, I wouldn’t buy it at this price point. Reasons.
I checked the FF web page, not listed under flashlights but see it now under New/Pre Orders.
6 amps CC makes sense for the Boost HL, but doesn't make sense for the Boost HX considering the claimed lumens and throw. The HX wants about 9 amps for it's best output.
The 65 mm head diameter is enough to put it up a bracket from the 60 mm head L19. Also the IP66 rated T9R means no immersion in water, while the L19 is IP68 rated for 5 meters.
For the T9R, I'd go with the Boost HL rated at 600 kcd good performance for it's size. I have the SBT90.2 K1, and with only minor mods, it makes over 500 kcd, and the green W1 K1 I have is doing 730 kcd.
Again, if the compact size, dual switch, available pressure switch, and better water resistance are important, the L19 is a better choice.
6A CC does make sense for the Boost HX. They’re not claiming best output of the HX, they’re claiming 1500 lm. Acebeam is claiming 1650 lm. Not much between the two and those are just claims by now. I think Acebeam is just a bit more optimistic with their numbers.
Here’s a test of the HX that EasyB did a couple of months ago.
So at 6 A the HX could deliver that output. I see very little gain from driving it at 8 A or even 9 A. I don’t think Acebeam are driving that emitter at 9 A either. Even 8 A would be a lot for a manufacturer. I’m not a fan of driving LED’s at their peak in the lm/A graph, because of variances between one LED to another of the same type, lifetime, very little gain, etc. From that point of view I think 6 A to the HL is a bit much in the T9R.
For me, the differences in head diameter are very little, but of course every mm matters when it comes to throw range. Just don’t make the T9R 66 mm in your next post. 
I hate to disagree with you Tom, I respect you a lot, BLF legend. 
I barely hit 1500 lumens at 7.6 amps on a HX bought recently from Simon. Dunno, maybe it's a low bin comparatively. At 9.25 amps it did 1630 lumens. Didn't record #'s lower than 7.6 amps, but it ramped up consistently between 7.6 amps and 9.25 amps. At 10 amps, it was reading lower.
That EasyB test is not the HX, it's the older W2 - post is 2 years old.
Oh sorry, I thought it was the Boost HX, I stand corrected then. Just looked at the month of his post.
Either way, 1500lm vs 1650lm, variances, manufacturer claims… We’ll see
Ths Boost HX should easily handle 9A, but output in lumens for anything but the best bins will probably not be a significant difference vs the the W2. It’s in the cd/2mm that the HX beats the W2, plus better able to handle the higher current/dissipate heat (maybe more efficient also). It will throw better at a given output (at least on paper).
I got about 80 kcd out of a HX in a Lumintop SD Mini w/head diam of 31.8 mm, SMO reflector I.D. of 23.5 mm. That was at about 9 amps, about 1630 lumens (mine), calibrated: 1440 lumens.
I can see that someone here is writing about overly exaggerated acebeam specifications, meanwhile fireflies can also overestimate their products, such as the statement that PL47 219b has 2500 lumens, funny or the first specifications for ROT66V2 W2 18000 lumens, or 80% more than in reality and it’s even more fun now when I see a flashlight with a much smaller head and probably lower quality but the same or greater throw than the Noctigon K1 it is even more fun 
I’m glad you’re having so much fun.
it’s good that you are satisfied because probably Jack will change the specifications right after the first reviews as was the case with ROT66 Gen2 W2 and you will be sad
What is your problem, dude
I couldn’t care less what Jack does with his specifications, his lights and his company. If Iike a light, maybe I’ll buy it.
This whole thing here started because I said this Acebeam is overpriced and nobody changed my mind on that. If you don’t think so, fine, get one, get ten, I don’t care.
I wrote that I think Acebeam is a bit more optimistic with their numbers, what you made out of that is that someone wrote their specs are overly exaggerated. See the difference?
And even if it does 1650 FL1 lumens, I still think it’s way overpriced.
maybe its specification is overstated or maybe it is not, I do not know. you attack one product promoting another without knowing anything about it except the manufacturer’s specification which may not be consistent with reality
Was it that long ago when if you slid the flashlight switch from OFF to ON you would be happy if any light at all came out.
Sometimes you had to smack it against your palm once or twice to get it to turn on.
And shim the cells
L19 Beamshots
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I believe I do not buy any thing without a discount code .