Armytek Wizard Pro "Nichia" more GREENISH than CREE (?!)

Check my website for Maukka’s spectrum test on 219C D240 R9050 and 144AM E900 R9050. The only difference between 144AM and 144AR is the footprint voltage and test current. 144AM binned at 1400mA and 144AR binned at 700mA.

[Clemence]

You mean 144AM and 144AR have different foot print (?)

Sorry, I meant voltage. What’s wrong with me today? Arrrgh

As I said, it’s the way my eyes work. Not much to explain, and others may very well not share this perception.

It’s true Unheard. Any LED compared to for example, sw45k looks green. That applies to any comparators. I have to isolate my eyes for a few minutes to cure this rosiness off my brain after seeing any rosy light source. I never like sw45k, it’s pretty yet unnatural. Even the sun looks VERY green compared to 219B sw45k.
I thought pictures would show different perception with side by side images, because the sensor should interprets it differently. But I was wrong, once my eyes look at the side by side image, my brain tricks me back again!!!
The only valid way is to directly measure the said greenish image with a spectrophotometer.

[Clemence]

If I had nothing else to do, I would send this light for CRI testing… I can’t believe it has 90CRI with 50 red… I counter checked with 6 other of my Nichia light (219B and 219C) this Armytek Wizard “Nichia” is the worse of all… The only time that it looks okey, it’s on Turbo 2 ! (which is badly driven compared to the pro XHP50!)

Here is a close-up to the led through the TIR :

That’s really not clean. It’s greenish and moreover full of dust (?)

Clemence? You sell and have tested the 144 CRI90 . You are familiar with this emitter, what do you think about that picture?

It’s as ugly as a sst-20 FB4 from kaidomain (but in more dull :confounded: )

144AM Sm453 E900 R9050 I tested we’re as good as people’s expectation. Many of our friends in BLF can confirm about it. Not as rosy as sw45k for sure but definitely not green. Zak put it on his wizard and he wrote a review about it. You might want to check his thread. He installed it in under driven condition (being 6V in 12V driver) but still not green.

[Clemence]

BTW, I noticed the speckles are different on each lens, i.e. not located on the LEDs. Could be residue or just dust. Mine looks not much better.

lmao E21A wizard > 144A Wizzard

Pheewwww… I feel much more better. Thanks !

For a while, I thought that my sample was accidentally dirty… No bad luck on that side > dirty optic is standard.

This light will return back to Foshan. Unacceptable.

I’ve seen those specks in every TIR lens I’ve looked at under magnification. I think they’re air bubbles or some other imperfections created during production.

Are you sure ?

Personally, I believe what I see. So, let’s have a look :

This is a close-up of the 2 first TIR lights I have right here… You can zoom-in and notice zero dust/particle/imperfections on those TIR (both Skilhunt h03)

There is a nice smooth homogeneous grainy texture in it, but no dark spots or obvious production imperfections…

Let me check more of those specks in every TIR lens I’ve under my hands - I’ll be back with better stats…

(Edit)

I check 3 other light, all TIR, and 1 single TIR from Fastech. So far, the only TIR that looks so dirty is this Wizard Nichia. Rest is clean. If there is a dirt on the surface of the dome, the same pattern should appear on every micro lens of the TIR. Anyway, the light return tomorrow to manufacturer.

I can spot them in your pictures, allthough the structure mostly hides them well. But really talking about assembling lights in non-clean rooms? This has zero visible effect imo.

Sorry, you really need to calm down. It’s not a Lupine, it’s a cheap light assembled in China.

I think you just lost the lint lottery.
I agree that this tint in unbearable, but I am a total tint snob.
Time to choose your destiny :slight_smile:
Send it back or mod it. We prefer the last one with a picture report.

No problem geuzzz > Just send me a nice 144AR 90CRI emitter in 4500K, 5000K or 5700k , and I will send you some nice pictures report :wink:

But it’s too late. Light is already packed for return. I will update if any “excuse pop-up” from Armytek not to refund me.

I’ll pay for the return fee, that’s ok (fair enough)

Concerning the tint, it depends how ArmyTek is ordering LEDs because within 5 step MacAdam Ellipse, it could make a great difference and a part of the reel may end above BBL.
Concerning “dirt”, I saw way worst dark spots size and quantity, depending on the quality of the mold of the LED dome and the mold of the TIR lens. LED dome with tiny bubbles might worsen the phenomenon but it is quite normal and doesn’t affect the beam quality.

I understand that you are not satisfied with the green tint but with some major manufacturers (nitecore, JetBeam, etc) there is absolutely no guarantee. It’s fine to report this kind of problem but no needs to chase “normal” imperfections to make things worse that it needs to be. In French we say “qui veut tuer son chien, l’accuse de la rage” = “If you want to kill your dog, accuse him of having rabies”. :wink:

I do hope for you that the seller has some sort of 100% satisfaction guaranteed return policy.

There are many other legitimate reasons to kill dogs. I’am looking for perfection or at least, improvement.

I let Armytek learn about this issues, in order to improve their control quality. I trust Maukka’s review and Clemence’s observations too. There sample should have a good tint.

- My sample has a bad tint + a dirty TIR (or dust on led surface) I send it back according to their 30 days return policy.

Je aimer parler francais parfois aussi. :+1:

Modifications done by Clemence are always done with great care so if you’re looking for tint and CRI improvements, maybe he would willing to mod yours if the driver is compatible and your model easy to open : [MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 to 4x Nichia E21A
Or an alternative that I hope will be available in his shop soon (after the Group Buy) : Nichia E17A/E21A Skilhunt H04RC Group Buy

I’m lazy and short enough on free time that slapping some minus green and/or DC Fix on the lens of lights that don’t do it for me tint-wise has worked out perfectly.

You can spend time, effort and money “chasing the dragon”… but the solution is only as far away as the shipping time for a roll of Zircon or Lee filter sheet.