Yep I cant wait to get mine. Mine is going to go into a 3d mag running off of 3 18650s. :)
Damn fine choice. Can't wait to see you completed build!
Sadly it will be a bit as I'm going to have to wait for a heatsink coming from thailand. 
If anyone is wondering. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?310770-********-H22A-Heatsinks-********
Version 1.00 of the Firmware is now available for the 3XML Module. This release supports modules with mode-changes performed by removing and then re-applying power (such as a typical tail-clicky does). Soon to follow will be a version that supports a momentary contact MODE button.
The firmware is available at:
http://www.brightlightmodules.com/3XML/Firmware
MikroC PRO for PIC is also available in that directory for download (you can also get it directly from MikroE at www.mikroe.com)
PPtk
Hello, PilotPTK.
I'd like to say, the module you designed looks awesome! A few questions though: you mentioned in the beginning of this thread that there was not only the possibillity of a fully customizable UI (again: awesome!), but also the option to vary the current by using a potentiometer. Is this still implemented in the finished product?
If not, is there a way to program a UI similar to the famous original Nitecore D10? (hold momentary button for ramping up/ramping down, shortcuts to lowest output [by tapping the momentary button two times] and highest [tapping and holding momentary])
A UI like the D10 or some kind of "infinite brightness controll" via a potentiometer would make this the ultimate light for me.
Thanks for making this module! I haven't seen anything remotely like it!
Any chance of a description of the mode changing?
Coming tonight, as a video.
Thanks a lot! Glad you like it.
Yes, fully customizable UI. Yes, Infinite control using a potentiometer is implemented.
This is also available fully on a light with a momentary contact switch (usually a side switch), and is somewhat available on a tail-switch style light. The video later today will explain better.
Consider it your ultimate then! It's all there!
Once again, Thanks for the compliment, and You're welcome!
PPtk
Hi PPTK,
If someone could have the tooling necessary to make an offroad light host for your module, how much will this host need to be finned? Or, better, how many watts you think the module will need to dissipate as heat when used in a vehicular application at 13,8volts?
Would you think that a host similar to those cheap single xm-l bike lights could work?
Plan on dissipating about 28-30 watts of heat. It's quite significant, and nearly all of it is from the LED's themselves. Input voltage is pretty irrelevant, as the driver is quite efficient from about 10 to 18 volts.
I've never run a thermal analysis on any of the cheap single XM-L bike lights, but if they're marginal for one XM-L, I would think they'll be totally unprepared to deal with 3 of them.
PPtk
One thing that would probably work well for that is an old computer heatsink.
I'll confirm that typical 1*XM-L bike lights (clones of MagicShine MJ-808E mostly) won't heatsink 3*XM-L's properly, they can barely keep 3*Nichia 219's (1.5A per LED) at acceptable temperature.
Alright, good news. Firmware version 1.0 was complete yesterday ( http://www.brightlightmodules.com/3XML/Firmware ) and now the Mode/UI Designer is done.
Here's a video showing how the modes work, and how the mode designer tool functions. You can design the exact modes you want and then send a complete firmware file back to me for programming on modules that you purchase. The mode designer will also allow you to generate a firmware file that you can program yourself if you want using a PICKIT 2, PICKIT 3 or ICD 3 from Microchip.
I think the mode designer is pretty cool. It allows anyone, no matter the level of programming experience they have, to design their own custom modes just the way they want. Check out the video! Do be gentle on the mode-designer, though. I'm much better at writing embedded firmware than I am a visual UI tool like this. I'm sure there are a hundred ways you can break it - follow the steps like I do in the video, and you'll be good to go.
http://youtu.be/jpRjAiKaU6s
The mode designer is available at http://www.brightlightmodules.com/3XML
Next on the to-do list is Firmware to support Momentary contact switches. The current 1.0 release supports only Power-On/Power-Off style mode switching such as a tail-cap forward or reverse clicky switch. The module also supports momentary contact switches and potentiometers - I just have to finish up the Firmware.
PPtk
Seriously PPtk, how the heck do you maintain a full-time job along with cranking stuff out like this?! That UI is amazing (by UI, I mean the tool to build your own custom program)! Maybe I didn't see the whole video, but can you customize how modes are changed (such as time after light is on before mode is stored in memory)?
This is very good job PPtk, I would say it's the best of what one can get from 3xml DIY part! Precise designing, selection of components, programming, I like it very much!
Thanks for the info! 30 Watt definitely need a dedicated host, from billet, good thickness behind the driver board and plenty of fins all around.
Ok, will wait. I'm sure I'm not the only one here that would like to have a dedicated host 
It's a delicate balance, for sure. I don't sleep a lot :)
Thanks for the compliment on the mode designer - I really hope that it helps people with limited or no programming ability to design their own custom functions.
Mode change is actually done after power off, not after power on. A 'short' power off will change modes, a long power off will either come back in the same mode you were last on (Mode Memory) or start at the beginning of your mode list (No Mode Memory).
PPtk
Awesome, that's the best way to do it. So it utilizes a capacitor of some sort then.
I was considering starting my own service for programming attiny13a boards, where you would go to a website and select mode options and I would program it that way. But this is even better, it actually generates the code :)
I was thinking a D mag heat sink like this and just tap the center hole a little bigger for the driver center hole, nice big flat surface area.
Top, second from the left
What do people think ?