Astrolux FT03

There isn’t one in ToyKeeper’s collection yet.

Maybe someone else has compiled one?

No it’s not in TK’s collection. However Zozzlights has gotten it to work

Zozzlights and Zozzv6 are they one and the same person?

Yes, and he’s very friendly.

He will probably share the .hex file if you PM him.

Great will do that. Thank you.

Incredibly cool


If you really like a ‘pocketable’ pocket rocket thrower, perhaps the Nightwatch NI01L Osram white-flat is worth a look: HERE

I’ve been meaning to put Anduril on mine as well. Does the integrated charging still work?

Anyone else besides me tried running 2 batteries on the ft03? Since the tube fit, I tried it. Before I even get a chance to try it regularly… not good. I think I killed it?

If you put 6 volts (technically 8.4 volts) into a 3 volt led it will die.

It’s like plugging a 110v AC unit into a 220 volt outlet. It dies.

Flashlights that run on both 1 and 2 batteries in series, like the Convoy L2 use drivers designed for the wide voltage range and send the proper voltage to the led.

If I recall the XHP50.2 is 3 volt.

It is.

Anyone sell spare board/driver for an easy fix?

I am a total newbie but I suspect you only need to reflow the LED. Maybe Jason can chime in on that.

I kind of suspect ttylamg can’t do a reflow. You can try adventure sports flashlights and see if Matt has a big 5050 mcpcb he can put it on. Otherwise you can buy just the led from overseas at Kiadomain and reflow it yourself. It seems the 3v is still a bit hard to find.

You also need to check if the driver is damaged or not. The MCU runs at a lowish voltage and uses a resistor to bring the voltage down some. The operating max voltage is 5.5 volts. If fed 8.4 volts the resistor probably won’t bring down the voltage enough. I don’t know for sure.

I would take a spare 3 volt led, xml, xpl, whatever and install it just to see if the driver is still working. You’ll probably have to test it with the reflector out so use a weak battery or be careful not to ramp up too high.

If the driver is still okay, then consider ordering a proper replacement led.

I will ask around about whether the driver will survive or not.

I contacted Mateminco, they offered me a new LED and driver for a low price, however shipping was more expensive than all parts, i remember shipping was something like 9 or 10 dollar

I still have a spare CW LED on DTP, don’t know how much shipping will be, let me check

EDIT, regular post is 5 Dollar

The button aux light still runs and operate with all the commands, does that mean driver is still good?

Awesome, yokiamy, I’ll pm you for detail thanks

I just heard back from Texas_Ace, he says the MCU will survive most of the time. It sounds like your driver might he okay and you just need a new led.

If the led blew quickly, that is the only thing needing a change. However, sometimes the led does not blow right away and it can overload the FET / 7135’s as well and damage them.

Do you have any 3 volt led mounted on a mcpcb that you could try out? If you used a wooden stick or something to press the mcpcb down to the flashlight base (for good heat transfer) you could ramp up all the way testing the 7135 chips, then double click briefly to Turbo and verify the FET is okay. Use a very weak battery maybe around 3.0 to 3.4 volts or so just to make sure Turbo doesn’t blow the led. Your spare led might not handle very high amps - depending on what led you might have laying around.

The parts don’t cost that much and I was thinking this level of diagnostics is a bit much, especially for someone like me. I am hoping a direct replacement since I am going to do an aux board from lexel, maybe he can build a replacement board with aux led in it or attached for me :). Then I just switch it out… I really appreciate everyone jumping in to give ideas. This conversation will probably help others.

They should put some warning to not do what I did. The instruction sheet was so small, I can barely read it, and thought to myself “bah there’s nothing in here that I don’t know”. And since I was taking the 28650 out of my chase light I immediately thought “hmm if this is a single battery I wonder what double voltage will do (like how bright)”. With out even thinking it through. Now I’ll never make that same mistake again… just glad I did this on this light and not a more expensive light.

I have a sst-40 fwiw, still 3v tho.

Ok, I tried to take it apart while waiting on vendors response for repair parts. Online video shows while the disassembly while its doable, but its getting into the “a bit more work than I care to do” territory. because of the retaining hw, it requires hunting down a tool I don’t have, and because of head button, the assembly is a hair more tricky.

while looking at the board, I tested the following with a voltmeter.

sst-40 board on FT03

1+2 has good voltage
3+4 also has good voltage 3.65

Does this mean the led is the only thing i need to change out? so I just need to source a sst-40 dedomed (upgrade I was thinking :laughing: and solder it on?

thanks again.