click the link in the OP
add cells, long tube and/or a S1
buy
So Iām confused, does this have Bistro driver or not? Banggood product page clearly shows Bistro UI in the last photo.
no bistro ui!
Can you ask them to remove that photo? Not cool that they are advertising it has Bistro UI when it doesnāt.
i do
I canceled my purchase
Thanks
Sharpie is asking some important questions.
It really looks like the outer area of that MCPCB is all positive. If thatās the case itās a bad design and a quite dangerous one. Could be fixed with isolation discs under the screws, but there isnāt even enough space for the screwās headsā¦
Another good question: whatās the current draw? Lumen numbers are lower than I expected. Iām getting about the same numbers with three 219B-V1 and 5A regulated driver (stacked 105C)ā¦
And I have one more question: Kenjii wrote that thereās a front glas on top of the optic. How many O-rings are there and where are they placed?
Might be an idea to put some thermal adhesive under that MCPCB, screw it down & reassemble the light until it sets then remove the screws if thatās positive traces under those headsā¦
Thatās a very good idea, only thing to think about is if you ever plan to swap emitter boards thermal adhesive could make that difficult.
I sometimes rotate the mcpcb so that it overlaps one of the holes going to the pill side and then you can use a small screwdriver bit or the like to apply pressure from the backside to lever the board away from the adhesive.
Mine shipped, canāt turn back now!
Mine shipped too.
Hopefully wonāt go south like the Cometa
Also mine was shipped 4 hours ago.
Oh boy, I hope this is not becoming another flashlight design fiascoā¦ itĀ“s not rocket science to make a clean und secure flashlight and driver design, no?
K.
The dielectric layer is normally pretty though and doesnāt wear too easily even with the tightened screws, but if that becomes a problem they could simply reverse the polarity and reflow the LED the other way around, so if it shorts it will only lose modes and not become dangerous. Another fix would be if they used anodized screws and a plastic washer disk on top.
Itās just a light folks. Chill.
Nothing that canāt be adjusted. If the screws bother you, remove them. Just put some Arctic silver thermal paste (not epoxy) under the mcpcb. The pressure of the optic on the mcpcb from the optic, once itās tightened down is more than adequate. I doubt it makes much difference any way you look at it.
Four nichias with a 16350 are only going to put out what they can.
I build a lot of DD 14500 triple XPE2s, and the tail current never varies between 4.2A and 4.5A no matter whatās done or what batteries, protected or unprotected. It is what it is.
I aināt too excited. If itās crap, itās still a win! Iāll get poād and quit buyingā¦ā¦yeah rite!
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. I have no one to blame but myself ( and manker).
Hi,
there are two O-Rings. One on the threads of the pill and one between bezel and the glass.
Here are some closeups.
I got the screws out now. The replaced screws have a slightly smaller head and fit without touching the pill.
Regards
Kenjii
Thanks Kenjii, right amount of o-rings at the right spots, thatās good news. EDIT: Oh boy, I think I read what I wanted to readā¦BUT:no o-ring between optic and glas?How is the optic kept in place? Does the glas make direct contact with the optic?
Well, positive trace goes almost to the edge, they shouldāve kept a bigger distance from where the screws go at least.
The smaller screws look like a better fit, but based on those closeups it does seem the + side is right under the screw headā¦ as long as that solder mask holds up it would be OK, but that is still rather poor. All it would take is for as screw to be put in crooked or a screw with a rough underside to the head to cut through the mask and create a short!