I go a bit simpler with my potting, I just use RTV silicone from the auto parts store. It is electronics safe, waterproof and flexible;e out of the tube. In my research this is a common potting technique. It is used to pot automotive electronics all the time in modded cars.
The only issue with it is that once you pot with it, you will not be removing thing. Lubing up surfaces before hand with petroleum jelly can help remove the big items but good luck getting to the MCU every again.
This is why I don’t pot anymore, I simply want to change things too much and the lights I have potted I now wish I could change. So until a light has been in service for awhile and I know it doesn’t need any changes I don’t pot them anymore.
I built a Texas Avenger driver with bistro firmware but I am having a problem with the medium tap. I want the med tap to be like 0.5s - 1s but the fastest I can get is 3s. The OTC value is already at the highest (CAP_SHORT 254, CAP_MED 220, CAP_SHORT 253). I tried the offtime-cap.c to see the value at 3s and its 255.
What’s wrong with this? I am using 1uf x7r for otc.
If you try the calibration does it ever drop below 255?
It is possible there is a short somewhere keeping it charged.
Another option is you could try putting the C2 0.1uf on the OTC to see if that gets it working.
This is why I want to get the OTSM setup working in bistro so we can do away with all of these issues. I am fed up with all the OTC issues, no matter how good the components you have to pick between it working correctly cold or hot, both doesn’t seem to be an option with any of the half dozen caps I have tried.
Yes it drop below 255 but only after 3s.
I don’t have 0.1uf.
I have the same hardware used with my fet+1 driver but with blf a6 firmware and the med tap is working normal. The only difference is the additional resistors (R3, R4, R5 on TA driver)
Maybe because I used 10uf on C2? I don’t have 0.1uf and I read here “If C2 is not used, C1 should be moved over to its position.” I’ll put back later the 10uf from C2 to C1 and see what will happen.
Well seeing as that is the only difference from a hardware standpoint I would do that. Since C2 is after the diode it could very well be dumping it stored power into the OTC and thus extending it’s time.
We really need to get the OTSM working on bistro, that fixes all these issues.
Problem solved! The culprit is indeed the C2 10uf. I put it back to C1 and now the med tap is working normal 0.5s.
Looking forward to that OTSM.
Thanks
Come to think of it, I had a stuck in moon mode issue at one point, it turned out that I had put the diode on backwards. I have no idea how the MCU was getting power at all in this case but it gave me a very low moon mode only.
Hmm… ya, idk? In the middle of configuring turbo it just locked up. But it reflashed with no problems and is working now:) I tried to repeat the problem after the reflash but was not able to.
The signal will not be as stable and there is a possiblity of the voltage spikes reaching the MCU and causing reset issues. I have never tried it to know for sure but it should work ok but better to have the cap in place.
When you flash the firmware, there are so called “fuses” that get set. If you are using avrdude the fuses look like this in your flash bat file (on the line that starts with avrdude):
-U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m
In the above case the low fuse (lfuse) is set to e2, high fuse (hfuse) is set to df. What are these l and h fuses set in your bat file? Just paste in your avrdude command line and I’ll be able to see for myself.
Thanks. The brown out detection at 1.8V is enabled with those fuses. In that case my guess about what your issues could have been are probably incorrect.
I don't know. It's not clear that we've established that 1.8V is a valid BOD level for non V chips. It seems to me corruption could be possible on random chips at that level if that's what you're getting at.
