I second using Ospho. It leaves a protective iron-phosphate coating on the metal. Then you can paint it so it will be protected from the outside elements. I’ve done this with many steel items that must sit outside, like trailer parts, etc. I started using it back in the mid-eighties so it’s been around a long time.
You can find it much cheaper than Amazon ($57 !) if you look around places like Ace hardware, McCoy’s building supply, even Walmart. I used to buy it at the local boat/marine supply stores by the quart bottle. The base ingredient is a weak phosphoric acid just so you know. If you get it on you wash it off with lots of water, just a heads-up.
If you go to your local building supply store (Home depot, Lowes, etc. ) you will see many types of rust converters competing with Ospho. And there are rust removers/dissolvers like good ole Naval Jelly. Then you simply prime and paint.
Woah great tips again! Boy rust removal is easy but not easy. Good thing I have old pair jeans for the chemical part.
Well, I found a pack of wire brushes and gave it a trial run this morning. Pretty smooth going till the battery ran out of juice.
After removing the rust, I noticed the bare metal surface is kinda pitted. Is that normal?
BTW, I have another vise actually. It's a little guy and quite useful for flashlights and such. Plus it's metal too. I'm about to do surgery on the Sofirn 10S.
Yes, that pitting is normal...result of the accelerated rusting but also the sand casting technique usually leaves the finish less than smooth. Quite often you'll see these cheap vises slathered in bondo putty to cover up the roughness before the paint goes on - sometimes a chunk of bondo will fall off the vise in rough use even when the paint is still sound. Nothing much you can do about it unless you want to try to sand/grind the surface smooth-ish again - might be worthwhile on the anvil surface but I wouldn't bother elsewhere.
Those little vises are handy. I got the same version but it came with some nylon jaws as well. I put some thick-wall silicone tubing over the posts so they grip driver boards better. Mounted it to a small board to raise it a little and make turning the knob easier (knuckles dragging on the table....). Wishing a speedy recovery for your patient!
When using wire brushes, be careful to not "side-load" the bearings on a drill excessively, which causes them to wear out prematurely, as they are mostly designed for axial thrust loads with minimal side loading.
If you do not have a heavy duty angle grinder, it would be better to use a cheap disposable throw-away drill if the wire brush side-loads the bearings as it would be a shame to ruin an expensive DeWalt battery powered drill.
True just done looking online at rust chemicals and there's quite a few choices. Actually a lot of choices. :D Gel this and spray that etc. :-) The Ospho is quite tempting but this is my first time with chemicals. It's quite pricey for a beginner(me) I figure. I saw this at my local Princess Auto. It's only 9 bucks and it might do the trick. I'm thinking of trying it out on small sections at first and see how it goes.
That would do just fine and is basically the same thing. I looked up the msds and it's around 20% phosphoric acid (nothing else listed on the sheet but that may not mean anything). And the price is certainly...normal. lol. I'd recommend brushing instead of using the trigger spray...or at least pay attention to the wind direction. Brushing will waste less of the product and put it where you want it to be. I can't believe the pricing I saw on the Amazon Canada products, wow. It's been a few years since I bought my last bottle but I pick it up at a paint & body supply and the price has stayed nearly the same for almost 20 years now.
(oh, also...if you do use a brush, pour some of the product into a little container and work from that. If you get rust into the main bottle it will react...still remains somewhat usable as long as not toooo much gets in there, but it will discolor and react more slowly next time you use it).
That metal piece is for my son to hammer stuff on rather than just on the shelf of the vice. I got it from my dad, but I’m not sure what it was used for. I have several of them and they look just like yours. Interesting.
I took out the main gear mechanism. It turned pretty smooth and came out quite nicely. I actually thought it would look worse but after wire brushing what I could and taking a closer look, doesn't seem that bad I guess.
I think I'm gonna take the parts out and give err a full clean and then some paint. I noticed the spring is held in under tension. Looks like one should tension the spring before removing the pin. Putting the screw and spring part back could be a problem though.
I've wondered just how they install those at the factories. Probably no need to undo it but if I were to try, I suppose a section of pipe that fits the screw with a slot cut into the end to clear the pin should work if you can apply pressure. Pipe/bar/quick-grip clamp should be enough to compress the spring. Straighten the cotter pin first then position the head up (in the slot) so you can grab it. I haven't done this before, just thoughts on how I'd go about it. I think it'd be fine to just rust-treat the guard cover and call it done. The lead screws are usually loose enough to begin with that I wouldn't wire brush them...just clean it up with solvent and grease it up. Looking forward to the finished job!
Go to Costco, get a twin gallon box of Four Monk’s Vinegar for under $4. Get a bucket, soak the vise completely submerged. Place bucket in the sun (preferably with a lid butt not essential. It’ll just evaporate quicker without one.)
Let it soak overnite or even two. Rust be gone. Basically non-toxic, dam cheap, and it works.
Wash off with a hose. Let it dry completely (so leave it in sun) and then spray immediately with a lube like Blaster PB-50 Multi-Purpose Lubricant found at Home Depot usually in the Hardware Department. This stuff is also dirt cheap for a 12 oz can. Sometimes ridiculously on sale with 25% more added in. A little stinky butt not nearly as bad as other brands.
I prefer CRC 2-26 becuz it has very little stink - so much more suitable able for indoor use. Available in the Electrical Department at Home Depot for approx. $8 for a 12oz or so can. Great stuff for a lot of applications too. Either way with any protectorant let lubricated-up vises dry thoroughly before using vise indoors.
PS. Don’t be skeered of adding more vinegar as necessary if ya get evaporation.
PSS. And even if ya don’t get evaporation butt ya got a lot of rust don’t be skeered of pouring out about half and replenishing with more vinegar the following morning.
PSSS. The handiest brush I’ve ever used for this kinda deep crevices and jazz as in a vise has been an auto detailing stiff brush with a fairly long handle. It looks like one of those old -fashioned shaving brushes that went out of fashion when BIC disposables razors went market loco. Butt a lot stiffer.
While the vice is still submerged or even 1/2 submerged ya can take that “whiskers brush” and really go to town. ……
Here’s a Harbor Freight one that works faboo. Great general cheap parts cleaning brush. The reviews are accurate.
I decided not to take the spring parts apart and just soak the whole thing in chemicals. Just like the old saying goes, “If it ain’t broke, Don’t fix it”. Metal tension and flesh don’t go too well I figure.
I actually have 2 pieces. I got hold of them from the mechanic at the car dealership. I’m surprised at how useful these things are. :) Everything from holding down tiny stuff while tinkering to padding between hydraulic jack and car frame. :)
Oh nice, and I thought vinegar was only for cooking and removing warts! I’ll give it a go along with other chemicals mentioned for the vise pieces. I have a couple pickups tomorrow at local hardware store so will check things out.
CRC is good stuff too. I use their CRC Brake Cleaner all the time. Plus it smells nice too.
“If it ain’t broke…”
Words to live by. I’ve gone that extra little bit and have things go to hell big time all to often. A one hour job turns into an all day project, and needs new parts that I buggered up just because I thought it was just a wee bit more to do the full Monty.
Glad you got it apart.
This is kind of later to the party, but of late I’ve been using Deep Creep by Sea Foam.
It’s a penetrating oil like KROIL but not as nasty. KROIL is popular as a bore cleaner. It’s supposed to get under the crud and help lift it off.
I HATE the smell and if I get it on my hands, I think I feel brain cells dying.
Once had a can of KROIL decide to penetrate the bottom seam and soak the bottom of one of my range bags.
Cleaned it as best I could, but it lived outdoors and then in the garage for 3 years before it de-smelled enough to bring inside.
Deep Creep seems to work just as well and has a pleasant smell. I keep it handy for jobs that need creepiness.
I get at at auto parts stores. Good price compared to other penetrating oils too.
All the Best,
Jeff
I better make some shelf room for all my new chemicals now! Thanks brother for the heads up.
Going on YouTube in my case usually ends up weird. Just the other day, I went to check out videos on Crabgrass removal tips but ended up watching deadly Tsunami waves coming into shore! But yeah, will check for Vise Restore vids for sure.
Oooh yeah, been there done that! Funny how it works too. There’s this pause where you just not moving for a moment and just staring at it. Then it’s like
” Yeah I can do it! I got all the tools. Lots of time. Plus there’s Youtube too. I’m going for it!” Then all hell breaks loose! :money_mouth_face:
Boy rust removal is easy but not easy.
Good thing I have old pair jeans for the chemical part.
Available in the Electrical Department at Home Depot for approx. $8 for a 12oz or so can. Great stuff for a lot of applications too. Either way with any protectorant let lubricated-up vises dry thoroughly before using vise indoors.
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