Best rechargeable aa and aaa batteries.

Then just take our word for it. I actively use white Enelооp, and some of them are already more than 7-8 years old. Yes, the capacity of the oldest is not the same, but they still work well.

I am a member of the group you refer to as “our,” and just as you are sharing your opinion, I am sharing mine too. Some will benefit by your opinion, some will benefit from mine too. As a BLF member (like you) I appreciate and value your opinion.

I would not say he is an entertainer, he tests and some tests are thorough, but he doesn’t do proper reviews. He did however do a long term test of the batteries in solar powered lights…

My issue with his tests is that there is no proper reflection by him, and no time for you to properly process the results without pausing the video, looking at the results table, and then judging what is important to you. This could have been done a lot better already by going over the results, not in turbo tempo, and giving views and comparison.

Example: if a battery has more capacity but loses it faster then it still may have more power/capacity than the lower capacity one after say 500 cycles despite a relative higher loss of capacity after a long time. It would be interesting to properly compare such things, such as with the Eneloops vs. Eneloop pros. This means doing a proper review and ‘Project farm’ doesn’t do this.

Note: Measurements are not science, science is general analysis and measurements are a part of that. Measurements are also not the same as reviews, in reviews trade-offs need to be made related to price, ergonomics, and various preferences or even circumstances. An example is his recent test of battery powered drills, which was complete BS in the sense of being useless. The price of the Festool drill may have been far higher than others (and they are overpriced to most people), but woodworkers buy them for the ecosystem of batteries and other tools that are to them more useful than other brands’ tools. Not taking into account the ergonomics, ecosystem, detachable chuck, etc. means that his tests were useless in giving proper information. From the comments you see with that video, most commenters go along with the BS that a combination of doing well in the (speed) tests + lowest price is the best drill.

I totally agree. Drilling a hole with ten drills and then concluding the one that drilled the fastest is the best drill is complete hogwash. I also agree that there are qualitative measurements that are never taken into consideration, as you mention ergonomics, brand reputation etc. His videos are a recreation of what Consumer Reports did in the 70’s and 80’s.

I’m not sure what was misleading in the video. He used to same equipment for every battery and as far as we know every battery were all one year old. He didn’t use fancy expensive equipment He used equipment that all of us could use. As for me I find value in the video for making the decision on which battery to purchase. What I’m concerned about is that the video is a year old And some of the batteries are not being manufactured in the same country that they were being manufactured in at the time of their production. Which batteries that made the top of that list are now be in manufactured in China with cheaper Materials for bigger profits.

He really doesn’t take into account ‘usable life’ of any given battery, which can be ‘misleading’ for many novices in this hobby.

Back in early 2012, I revamped my rechargeable system, moving away from Rayovac’s IC3 fast charger/batteries that I bought from RatShack in ~2000 and the Energizer Japan 2300s and 850 AAAs.

I loved the latter and while the ROV kind of ‘dumb’ charged the Energizers, the 3-4 quads lasted a long time in my RM keyboard/mouse.

Starting over in 2012, I bought a bunch of quads: Sanyo 2700s, AccuPower 2900s/1200s, GP ReCyKos 2050s, Eneloop 2000s/750s, Duracell Ion Core 2450s, Duracell Duraloop 2000s and Immedion 2250s, along with the Maha C9000 and LaCrosse BC-700.

Of all of those batteries, or all of those batteries, only the Eneloop standards and the Duraloops are still in service and like a boss and it’s been 9 full years.

The others all crapped out in 2-4 years.

Chris

sounds like some people didn’t see his long term tests.
He’s probably going to come out with a 2 year follow up this Dec too.
Long term tests take tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiime

[quote = zoulas] [quote = Kos70]

Тогда просто поверьте нам на слово. Я активно использую белые Enelооp, а некоторым уже больше 7-8 лет. Да, емкость самых старых не та, но все равно работают хорошо.

[/ quote] Я являюсь членом группы, которую вы называете «нашу», и, как только вы разделяете свое мнение, я разделяю и свое. Кому-то будет выгодно ваше мнение, кому-то - и мое. Как член BLF (как и вы) я ценю и ценю ваше мнение. [/ Цитировать]

Я тоже ценю ваше мнение. Возможно, translate google имеет собственное мнение и перевел немного неточно. Было сказано не «доверься нам», а «поверь мне » ...

I’ve done year long ‘self discharge’ tests and even had two 8 packs of 5th Anniversary Eneloop Glitters that I discharged out of their sealed blister packs, after ~38 months, so I can vouch for their quality.

Chris

Вам нужно говорить по-английски, чтобы мы вас понимали. Кстати, в колледже я изучал историю России. Я хотел бы побывать там однажды.

I would not take that guys advice same as I wouldn’t take automotive advice from scotty Kilmer. They are YouTube entertainers.

My favorite review/comparison site is AA Cycler. He tests each battery in continuous charge/discharge cycles and provides graphs and figures about how many cycles they last until significant performance decrease:

http://aacycler.com/battery/aa/

ProjectFarm isn’t an expert by any means, and he never claims to be so. He doesn’t have tens of thousands of dollars in equipment to test things either. He doesn’t take money from sponsors nor does he review products for sponsored content. The VAST majorty of youtube content creators do. This means he doesn’t loose or gain anything, e.g. fair and unbiased evaluations of products on more or less equal testing conditions. He tests products very much ‘real world’ not under lab conditions. This is why he is so popular. The fact he tested the rechargables under real-world conditions and on a tester says a lot.

I absolutely trust his advice since it is backed up by proof in test results and the fact I can verify his results by my own experience.

I own some 2013 vintage Maha Energy PowerEx AA 2800 mAh and AAA 1000 mAh rechargables. They were really expensive and lasted maybe 3 years before losing a lot of their capacity and developing high internal resistance. I ended up going back to alkaline and then bought some Laddas.

[quote = zoulas] Кстати, в колледже я изучал историю России. Я хотел бы побывать там однажды. [/ Цитировать]

Do not confuse. I am from Ukraine, and it is a pity that you do not understand the difference. And it just so happened that I studied French. A little German ... So I'm sorry.

I just started watching him. I don’t know much about cars so I thought he knew his stuff.

Interesting test I just did on Tenergy Premium pro 2800mah rechargableAA vs Energizer Recargable AA 2300mah. I discharged them on an EBL charger that first fully charges then discharges and shows the mah discharged….I the recharged the discharged batteries on a XTAR VC8 charger that shows the mah charged into the batteries. Here is the results……

Tenergy 2800 mah discharged 2960 mah, and recharged 2992mah.

Energizer 2300mah discharged 2370mah and recharged 2450mah

I waited about an hour between the discharge on the EBL and the recharge on the XTAR. Both batteries were new. I do not know if the cycle times will hold up, but I was somewhat shocked to see that both on the discharge and charge, both exceeded the rating on the label, and both actually increased on the re-charge after 1 cycle. We will see how they hold up long term, but these are not the numbers I expected at all. 192, and 150 mah over the labled mah rating, and it was over on 2 seperate chargers. The IR on both was also below 30mohms which is outstanding.

I want to add that I am currently working on replacing every single device, remote, light etc. that has alkaleaks with rechargable batteries. I am sick of trying to use a remote or device that has been unused for months, only to find that the alkaline leaked and destroyed the device. I have never yet had a rechargable Nimh battery do so. Only time will tell if these batteries also meet or exceed their charge cycle claims, but thusfar they both exceed their mah claims.

Used my nice Motorola walkie-talkies, next time I went to use them: BZZZZZZZTTTT. Alkaleaks, those shitty Duracell versions, had leaked all over both. No more walkie talkies. Salvaged one. Was happy it wasn’t the Fluke 189 II.

I generally favor regular Eneloop. For most of my uses, its longer shelf life and longer cycle life trump the extra capacity offered by Eneloop Pro.

Here's the data.

Eneloop AA Eneloop Pro AA
2100 charge cycles 500 charge cycles
Capacity: 1900 mAh Capacity: 2500 mAh
Shelf Life: up to 70% of charge remains after 10 years in storage Shelf Life: up to 85% of charge remains after 1 year in storage

(Source: https://www.panasonic-eneloop.eu/sites/default/files/eneloop_catalogue_2019-2020_EN.pdf)

Ikea Ladda used to be the same as Eneloop Pro, but recently Ikea has moved away from Eneloop Pro in some markets. I have not followed this too closely, so check your store. I learned about the change in this BLF post.

Fujitsu (the maker of Japanese-made Eneloop) holds patents on LSD (low self-discharge) technology that other battery makers cannot match. Those patents are the reason Fujitsu/Eneloop dominates the NiMH battery market.

Not everyone needs low self-discharge. I have heard of photographers, for instance, who recharge every night anyway. They need the charge to hold for 12 hours, not 12 months. For that use, non-LSD rechargeables—offering AA capacities of 2900 mAh or more—may be a better choice than Eneloop, especially if you need the extra capacity.

For everyone else, however, Eneloop and similar Fujitsu-sourced batteries are the way to go.

Eneloop Pro has another advantage over regular Eneloop batteries. Pros can sustain larger current draws than regular Eneloops. That's why ZebraLight tests its many SC5 Flashlight models using Eneloop Pro.

That said, I still prefer regular Eneloop. For EDCs that get charged regularly, I need the increased cycle life. And for the lights that get tossed into a toolbox or drawer for for who knows how long, I need the extra shelf life.