Except they do not.
Backlight may use PWM when below certain brightness (or always), but then it is a matter of choosing a monitor which does not do this, just like with flashlights.
In “at work” environment PWM light may have additional downside - cameras are everywhere nowadays and often causing flicker there is really bad.
I totally believe you. I myself don’t really see the flicker, but that doesn’t mean it can’t have any effect. After extended time after the screen your eyes may feel tired using lesser screens. But 7 billion people, 7 billion ways to experience the same thing.
I have an Amazon kindle e-paper reader. Everyone I personally know says it’s easy on the eyes, but why can’t be defined. Sure techinicallities can be listed, but the eye doesn’t really see them, but does experience them.
Maybe that’s also what’s going on when trying to read in bad conditions.
Eyes most likely have a ideal brightness, contrast, temperature etc for reading. But (especially young) eyes are able to adapt.
It’s like during the day, daylight seems fairly constant in brightness because your eyes adapt.
My point is this, if we try to see/read on the edge of what our eyes are cable of, they may benefit more from 1% better color temp than from 5% extra brightness. Just an example that may be totally wrong. That’s why I started this thread.
I have to assume that you do not have a 3000k high cri light or you would not be asking this question. Correct me if my assumption is wrong. And depending on how dark it is where you are reading, yes you do want to be able to go down to single digit lumens. I’m not saying that 4000k can’t work fine. But there is no way that anything 5000 or above is going to be “best” for the majority of cases.
Your assumption is entirely correct.
My plan certainly is 5000 or below.
Also looked at 4000.
3000 might be a bit scary for 6500k guy… 
In my experience both high CRI and very low K are not so easy to find. Especially the two combined.
Likely because many companies are in the pocket rocket competion and they tend to be low CRI, high temp.
You might be a good candidate for a tint ramping light from Hank. You can pick your emitters for each channel (four emitters, two each). I think all said and done you’ll be in the $70 range but he has the 18650 D4V2 and KR4 (tail switch), and the 21700 D4K (all are quite compact and very close in size to one another)…lots of customization options. A popular choice is the 519A emitters in 5700K and 2700K which gives you a full range and they are high CRI with excellent tints, UI is easy to operate as well (both the general Anduril and the channel switching features). The non-tint-ramping models are just a little cheaper but it sounds like this would be both practical and educational for you and the quality is excellent especially for the price point.
There is also the new S21F from Convoy. There has been a bunch of discussion here about it.
One review at:
Yeah, it’s considerably larger, though (length and girth both)…but not huge. I assumed from OPs post that this light for him would likely need to be compact and pocketable…the Emisar/Noctigon models I listed may push that limit for many people. Price is right and it would also make a great tool to learn a little more about emitter temps with.
Where can I find those lights?
After reading all the great answers above I found a pic heavy thread.
The Nichia 219b is doing really well on that lavender scrub.
I wonder it would be also beneficial for reading text.
Hank’s site is here: https://intl-outdoor.com/
If you want the tint ramping models, click on the separate tint ramping link…the rest will all be normal models. As you select options from the drop down boxes the price will adjust itself (like using the 519A emitters is a $10 add on usually…more or less for other emitters).
The 219B is a nice emitter usually - it’s not always the famous rosy tint but if you get one of those rosy bins it’s very pleasant to the eye. I don’t think it’s particularly more helpful when reading/identifying things over another good tint near or below the BBL, but it’s certainly nice to use. That emitter can’t handle as much power, either, so it’s usually in lights that draw less current/fewer lumens, but for close-ish work it’s just fine and plenty bright enough.
Were you interested in the Convoy S21F, or just the Hank lights?
Here’s the S21F (without battery but he has a listing for an included cell, too): https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804957386368.html (should redirect for your country…I can’t ever seem to get generic non-regional links from ali anymore).
in the link, if you change “item” to “i” the “.com” doesn’t switch to a country code. for example:
Wow!
That’s incredibly useful.
I wonder if I’ll use that the next time I post an AliExpress link. 
Both. I knew Simon=Convoy, yesterday I figured out Hank=Emisar/Noctigon.
After reading/watching a fantastic thread on high CRI and colors, I sorta decided to go with 219b @4500K
Both Simon and Hank seem to sell them. Hank’s is easier to configure with the many options like floody and improved drivers.
Can tem[ be adjusted? Always assumed it was part of a led’s design.
S21F Has a pair of 2700K and a pair of 5700K emitters. By adjusting brightness separately CCT can be “adjusted”.
Once had an RGB light. Really bad because the beam looked really weird because, obviously, the leds werent all in the center of the reflector.
Better on this one?
If I found the ideal tint can it be memorized or do I have to set it everytime?
Similar to the dual channel DK4 ?
I do not have S21F, have been considering it, but decided against it. I have S21D with 4500k 219b though and yeah, that’s fun, but can not say that i am a huge fan of this emitter… way, way too “rosy”… and i kind of regret buying it.
Judging by reviews S21F does not have any serious issues with mixing light from different emitters and CCT setting is memorized.
I have somewhat similar task to what you describe from time to time at work, and i ended up using plain and simple convoy T3 for it. I bought whole set of T3’s just to play around with different emitters, because they are very cheap and fairly good. I have all CCT variants of 519A and 219B… and ended up using 3500K 519A for this.
I know the emitter is very personal. No problem with that at all.
One of the reasons I want to go that road is that I already have 6500k low cri.
And for what I’m looking for right now I don’t care about the tint.
If bright red gives the best readabilty I’ll get that.
But obviously are more general purpose color is best.