Questionable. Mine only would push 6.5A or so to the SFT. Barely broke 300kcd in my case. I found the PM1 to be a natural match to this driver/host. That setup did just over 400kcd
So which one should i buy for a sustained brightness of around 1000 lumens?
The Astrolux FT03 with SFT40 is a beast, i have not measured Cd’s yet, but i think its pretty similar to my L21A with CULPM1.
The FT03 is driven pretty hard, so it will sag and step down faster though
In a thrower, lumens shouldn’t be much of a concern. A PM1 light will struggle to keep 1000lm OTF for long without getting very hot. An SFT40 will fair better, but again, kind of missing the point. But per amp or per watt, the PM1 will outthrow the SFT any day of the week. In any given host, you are limited by sustained wattage and it’s accompanying heat production.
Two things matter for true throw applications. Beam angle and intensity (yes, the integrated product of which would net lumens, but in the hotspot). Size of your target, optics you are using (i.e. scope or binoculars), color/reflectivity of target, etc. will determine what you need. You then work backwards from there.
It really is up to you. Are you using the light at it’s limits of reach, or at a fraction of it? Inside of 200yds, I’m sure you’ll prefer the SFT, go beyond and that will change I bet.
Chances are this is just a toy for most here. In that case, get both and have fun!
My favorite “search” thrower is a Thrunite TN31 running an SFT at ~9A and making ~525kcd. It compares quite favorably to my WT90, which is much larger and just outside of the size range I deem remotely portable without a backpack or in the car.
The FT03 theoretically would make 410-420kcd and be similarly impressive I’m sure. Definitely a fun setup.
Another option would be the uf-1504 with w1, i imagine it would out throw the ft03
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000321611399.html
There is this zoomie that hasn’t ever gained popularity, but can be had for 55usd with 3 pills/modules and a remote tape switch.
Why that one that has rings in the beam and not the convoy z1 or a Uf-1504?
1504 is heavy and had inconsistent quality glass lens. The convoy has a tiny lens.
The rings can be addressed with blacking out the internals, especially the white centering piece. Flat black spray paint is what I’ve used with success in other zoomies.
But hey, don’t listen to me. I’m just a dude on the internet
i bought mine on sale
and it has been worth it.
this one is $29.00.
https://www.amazon.com/Rayovac-Tactical-Flashlight-Flashlights-Batteries/dp/B0199Q73LO
Uh… no thanks. The reviewers claim it’s the brightest flashlight “you’ve ever seen” - nope. It’s a typical bad “layman” flashlight that uses non-rechargeable CR123A batteries.
Also, this thread is about throwers. This light could not match up with any of the lights mentioned here.
The L21B is using a buck driver though, so you won’t measure 8A at the tail. Where did you measure from?
I don’t know the candela reading anymore, but in meters the L21B SFT40 gets 1200m and the PM1 is 1345m, I sell both, but will ditch the PM1 version due to the SFT40 having a more usable spot size.
It’s made by Nitesun. I ordered a couple from Nitesun for testing the Osram LEDs, but pulled out on selling them to a few issues. It focuses past what it should with the Osram making it extremely fiddly to get it where you want, and there’s too much movement in the head zoomed in.
This was my demo with the CULPM1 to try and interest Nitesun into using that LED. Unfortunately they wanted to stick with the XPL HI.
I was waiting for you to chime in Funtastic. Glad you are here. I knew you’d have these particular things to say as well.
In reverse order, I’m sure the HT12 is far from perfect, and if it weren’t for that bundle now including 3 modules and pressure switch for $55, it wouldn’t get a mention from a budget perspective. As for it’s shortcomings from your perspective, I recommend you try adding a copper washer between the pill and the body tube. It should share the OD with the pills shoulder, and thickness according to focusing requirements. I’ve had to do the same to my B158B. Doing this will give you the focus point and eliminate slop zoomed in.
As for the L21B buck driver. Yes, I’m aware of not being able to indicate emitter current from the tailcap readings in switching drivers without knowing efficiency. I measure it at the output. It may have been closer to 7 amps but I’m going from memory. Definitely was 6 point something. Also, after I discovered this was an issue, I estimated the intensity figures if it were running 8A and found that would make our SFT / PM1 values align proportionately. We discussed some of this in real time here : Best Convoy Thrower? - #79 by JaredM
Curious, when you say the spot size is more usable with the SFT (which I agree, generally), is this opinion formed with the naked eye or through a scope?
Thank you for this suggestion, I may try it, although the HT10 & HT12 are used for focusing in my camera since I do it manually.
Camera and naked eye. I don’t own a rifle, but use my Dad’s if I ever go out, it’s always during the day though. I just get a lot of feedback from customers. I’m still deciding whether I sell both or maybe have the SFT40 in the L21A for searching.
I was wanting to stock the SFS80 4000K, but it looks like it’s being discontinued. I had it at 8A, but saw a thread on here with reports of them dying, so I have it on a 5A driver now. I was really hoping for a good all round hunting light for all conditions.
One guy on a Facebook group used the SFT40 in the L21B, purchased a 10A DD driver from MTN and sanded down the gasket. He said it outperforms the PM1. I personally would rather a regulated buck driver though
My knowledge and understanding of how drivers work are quite limited. I thought a buck driver push 8A regardless of the emitter, is this not the case?
I’ve ordered the convoy 4x18A sbt90.2 today 
Just be careful with it because it won’t step down lower than High, and High gets very hot. I hit 78°C in my runtime test and had to turn a fan on 2/3 through. Once the temp dropped below X temp (can’t remember now) it started increasing in output. You need to drop it down manually to Med or in Ramping decrease it a little
Thanx for the tip :+1:
I wonder if it would run well on two (protected) 16650 rechargeables instead?
Old topic, but this old member has been away from BLF for a few years and kind of picking up where i left off.
I was impressed by the beamshots of the HT12 in your video.
So i ordered one for a very nice price.
Thinking of putting an SFT-70 in it, or an SFT-40 or the same Osram as you had in it.
I wonder if the heat can be transferred to the head.
Lots of grease maybe?
I’ll have a look for copper grease.