Best Zoomable Flashlight Review $5-$40 range, Sipik SK68, SK98, UF T20 Odepro KL42 (G700 flashlight alternatives)

nice flashlights/prices, but how can we order from taobao ?:slight_smile:

http://www.lingholic.com/how-to-learn-chinese/

:stuck_out_tongue:

without learning chinse :slight_smile: ,i found buy now button ,but it requires registration with mobile phone and i cant find the shipping cost if any.

I’d ask gearbest or bangood/fasttech to carry the light ….

what about the Solarforce Y2 ?

Looking forward to more zoom lights compare video. :-D

More on the lego’d together Franken-zoomie added to the What Legoes With What? thread so we don’t get lost in that thicket.

Thank you :slight_smile:

OP is now current.

bump…

And next time you drop yours, lit, into a deep-fryer, you know it’ll survive!

Bump…

the only bad thing about this flashlight is that the pill has a big hole,so i added a copper 20mm star with some copper pieces solder underneath the star.

There are a lot of cheaper lights ( especially zoomies) that are made that way with the “open air” heat sinks. I’ve filled a few of those myself.

Does the G700 Torch Accept C8 pills ?

No it does not, please do not buy that light. You can get the same thing on ebay for $5 and for a bit more you can get something much better. Look at the convoy lineup for some quality lights at great prices.

Thank you for replying
Unfortunately I already bought one, I bought it for 1$ from the local shop :smiley:

I’m looking for a solid copper pill for it , the hollow aluminium pill in it is very bad .

Do you know where to find copper pills for it ?

Nope, highly doubtful that you will find such a thing for that light. Better to just buy a better light if you want to mod it.

When you put in a copper DTP led board / star / MCPCB it’s already much better.
Use some thermal grease where the MCPCB touches the pill and screw that retainer ring on tightly.

Well at least you paid the price its worth :slight_smile:

If you want to improve the sinking on that light starting with a quality DTP copper mcpcb like a sinkpad or noctigon as mentioned will make a big differance.

If you want to improve that pill you could just take some copper foil or aluminum foil and mash it in there very tightly with a press or a hammer and flat bar. Pound it till its hard like metal, just make sure you have enough clearance to keep from shorting out the driver board.

Or find a hunk of metal you can fit
snugly into the hole in the hollow pill.

We talking ’68s or ’98s?

’98s are about 19mm inside (20mm driver!), and you can file down and stack a few Cu pennies, pre-tinned, drop them down, then heat and further pack them down to melt the solder and squoosh them together into a block. You can probably fit another shaved-down penny (and gobs of solder) into the leftover space under the star, melt that together, too.

Once done, and it’s about the same height as the ledge holding the star, you can drill holes for the wires from the driver, then reassemble the whole mess.

It’s a pain, but it works.

I asked about other methods, like filling the hole with Cu shot and solder, JB Weld, etc., if anyone ever compared the performance of each, but no one bit.