From my experience, you really shouldn’t try to increase current on this light…
Thanks for the teardown shots and info nofreak9. The shallower lens of the C12 should provide a wider spill, which I prefer. Maybe slightly less throw.
Thanks for the Courui (Big Head) lens info Rod911.
I beg to differ with you lagman. You may be correct, but I think something was wrong with your light. I have had several C12's and I have pushed them as hard as my cells could. They have pretty decent heat dispersal capability. This new version of the C12 has a much smaller looking pill, but I don't think that will be an issue as long as its got a snug fit.
Yes, if the LED has been correctly reflowed there is no problem. But if there was a problem on my C12 I suspect they are not doing it correctly and many people may have the same issue…
From now on I’ll always check that the LED has been correctly reflowed before increasing current. But to each his own of course. 
Ah, I see your point. Yeah, I've seen this problem in many different lights and also when just purchasing mounted LED's. Usually, it's something that wouldn't have be noticed if I wasn't such a stickler about it.
Maybe since the XP-L has a smaller footprint (but still an XML sized die), the issue gets magnified to the critical failure point like you experienced.
I ordered a Huawei,pronounced wahway ,honor 3C for $89 and it arrived yesterday.The manual is extremely light,but everything else is there.Thanks 18sixfifty for the heads up.
About the C12, my phone camera is picking up PWM in the highest mode, is that normal? Here it is on the right with a C8 on the left.
Interesting. Thanks for reporting that DanielM. That driver looks odd with what appears to be an MCU (Attiny13a maybe?), an EPROM chip, and then a small MOSFET.
I received the last of my carnival sale orders. A TR-J19. It's a big un. Not bad stock really, but I ain't hauling that big boy around unless it puts out some big light. The battery tube is quite thick walled. Wondering if it can be bored to hold 2 to 3 18650's side by side. Got to measure the diameter at the landings some time.
Received my C12. The seller asked me to cancel the order, I didn’t answer, he sent it out. The light is OK for the price, but I’m not too impressed with it. Definitely not worth the $18 they are asking for it now. It has the usual cheap flashlights quality, cheap ano, rough threads. The output seems to be lower than medium on convoy L4. The tint is nice, more neutral.
I’ve detected PWM on high as well.
Was surprised to discover that it has proper mode memory. Maybe the manufacturers finally getting it. I’ve got a C8 from KD lately, it had a mode memory as well.
fyi - not sure it's been mentioned, but this AliExpress store: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/708513 is KD (Kaidomain.com):
Shenzhen Lanhaite Electronics Limited Co.
It has the same listings, same prices, same descriptions, same pics.
This is one of the stores having the XP-L C12's, and also is a source for the Courui. I think this is one of the vendors having the wrong price and still honored the deal.
Interesting info Tom E. Yes, that is the vendor that honored the 5.75 XPL C12 deals.
KD has always done right by me. The couple problems I had with them, they resolved the issues in my favor. Is there a Winnie (Forgot last name at KD)?
Just wanted to give an update.
Yesterday I tried a different reflector and it looked almost the same. Then various centering rings were tried.
Finally a thin butterfly type one proved to be best. Also added Kapton tape as the reflector was very close to the contact pad.
It got rid of the 4 pointed star deal and best of all centered the LED. Nice hot spot that now fades onto the spill.
Braided the driver spring and it now pulls 3.05 amps on a good unprotected laptop battery.
The head and body handle the heat well and it is putting out some good output.
Tint on these XPL’s is very nice, my wife called it vanilla.
This is a nice flashlight even at the regular $18 or whatever, anodizing is flawless, clear glass, lubed threads, etc.
Next one to get modded will get a de-dome and try to get the driver out, the soldering onto the pill has proven to be hard to get off and I did not want to destroy the driver board by drilling holes in an attempt to get a pick under it.
Probably will need to remove the LED board and push on the driver while heating solder, will need 3 hands:)
So, is the Gasoline method still the preferred de-doming method for the XPL?
Thanks and Enjoy!
Keith
Yea it should take around 2 hours and the dome will fully pop off
according to dbcstm
I have not had a chance to try it yet with the new baby, but soon.
i have dedomed with gasoline xml,xpg,xpe the easiest and quicker was xpl ,maybe cause it has “heavy” dome.
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