also can’t get the ld-3 driver to work, same thing stuck in high mode and programming the ld-3 driver requires an engineering degree lol. The ld-3 sucks,although some nice features, but can’t access any programming menus.
a right nightmare to get to any of the settings. I think I will go back to using some simple 3 mode drivers for the xhp50’s like the fx6 that I have or a 3 mode from kd
It takes heaps of force to fully compress a spring even if compressed i dont think it would short? You need the positive to touch the ground ring and in most lights that wont happen. Can you take a pic of the driver? Even if i squash the spring down my samsung 25r just fits. Well it will hit the ground ring but it still has the cover on it so it shouldn’t ground.
The LED is weird are you using a Copper MCPB? I have direct driven aluminum boards and where okay. After time they will die i guess faster then the direct thermal path boards.
I dont know any thing about the LD-3 Djozz will know how to work them?
plain alu board, should have went copper, but not the right size at the moment, well it works now though,(blf driver that is) ditched th ld3. No worries, is the attiny 25 x6 driver any better than the cheaper a6 driver though?
Don’t know what you’re doing but it’s most likely part of your process and not the driver. I’ve used way more than 5 of those from Banggood and they all work fine, single emitter set-ups have no flaw it’s only when going to much higher amperage with triples and quads that the issues raise up.
The FET won’t allow any more current to flow than a direct connection to a cell, and all of the single emitters are capable of running wired up straight to a cell with no driver, so I can’t see the driver being at fault blowing emitters. However, if something you’re doing is causing a positive short circuit then yes, drivers and emitters and springs will fail every time.
Edit: using an aluminum star with no DTP with an FET driver will indeed overheat the emitter and kill it. A SinkPAD aluminum star with DTP can run it ok, copper works out best in my own experience… not just copper but the Direct Thermal Path is still essential.
When using an aluminum star, you’ll know it’s the culprit because the light will start turning blue just before it dies. 
I bought some of these they are okay. I got 4amps at the tail cap from them. So not bad. I bought them for cheap lights.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1124800
These are cheap i have a bought a few i cant remember the difference between the 105c/d. I think its different firmware.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1186301-8-amc7135-2-group-2-5-modes-led-flashlight-driver
yeah, I guess something shorted, I’m not claiming to be an expert lol, probably something I did, oh well that’s part of modding I guess, If you want no problems I guess just stick with stock lights, but no fun in that. What is the difference between the two blf drivers though? I got the a6 cheaper version, is the other one better ina ny way?
Are there two versions? Should just be the one A6, and then Bistro. They’re different in quite a few ways and similar in many ways as well. Mostly the UI in the MCU is different.
hm yeah the nanjg ones seem good.In a few lights I actually have the new red convoy amc 8x 7135, with new firmware, works well.
one for the x6 with attiny 25 and the a6 one with attiny13, attiny 25 being more pricey
Yea the A6 driver and the X6 driver differ. The A6 uses an Attiny 13 and the X6 driver uses a Attiny 25 i think. The Later the X6 driver has a temp sensor capability. Also has a spot for a bleeder resistor so you can add a tail cap light. The board lay out is a little bit different also. I think the processing power is like double of the Attiny 25 i could be wrong. But more modes and options.
Yes, the X6/X5 Bistro uses a more complex User Interface, more expensive MCU (ATTiny25) and as such it has more options. I use the A6 in a LOT of lights, but I build my own mostly. I’ve used dozens of Banggood ones though, probably 50 or more.
hm, yeah, a shame they take such a long time to ship though.
so it seems it’s safe to say, that it was a case of user error on my part and not driver error, lol. Well part of modding I guess, haha. Well I’ll buy some more driver and lights and so on… Keep on modding, learning from my mistakes lol.
Maybe just stack some 7135 on a Nanjg board. You will like the constant current output. It use to be popular but its been fading now that Fet+1 have come down in price.
Its cheaper and easier to use a Fet driver in most cases. I still stack chips if i buy a light and it uses a 7135 driver and has an alloy board i will add a few chips for a tiny boost. You can pretty much double the output of a 3amp Nanjg if you wanted to. Constant current is great feature.
Convoy Flashlight Driver New Firmware 7135x3/7135x4/7135x6/7135x8 17mmwhat sort of driver is the red convoy 8x7135 on banggood then, also nanjg based or?
I have not seen it? Is it the driver from the clear C8? I think you can stack chips on most 7135 drivers.
Damn link doesn’t work lol. The C8 driver is a 7135 driver i am not sure of the branding. The older C8 use a Nanjg driver. There are clones around.
check banggood for convoy driver and you’ll see
We were all new to this at one point, and some of us need to break stuff to learn. I’m still learning. :person_facepalming: Spring bypasses will protect the springs from overheat loss of temper and increase the voltage available to the led but don’t fix shorts, instead the next vulnerable part becomes the weak link, which could at some point be the cell! FET DD pretty much means DTP stars. You can also to a certain extent tune the output by using cells with different internal resistances, at high current that resistance becomes a measureable drop in voltage which reduces the current through the led. Get a handle on what heat path means (led die> star> pill> host> ambient) and how at least in a gross sense it affects performance. You don’t need a Ph.D. in thermodynamics but a simple working knowledge is helpful to modding. The led is a highly concentrated heat source, the DTP copper star both conducts and diffuses the heat and provides a larger surface area for the next thermal interface to either the pill or the host(more surface contact>more heat transfer). Thermal pastes and adhesives promote transfer from one surface to the other but they don’t conduct heat as well as the materials they join so you don’t want to end up with an overly thick layer as beyond a certain point it becomes an insulator. In general excess will squeeze out but it’s up to you to make sure it can and does.
Yea its a 7135 driver. I am not sure of the branding. I am sure its good quality.