It looks like you figured out a lot of this already, so just a few notes:
Starry-offtime is literally just a very early version of blf-a6. It’s sort of halfway between STAR-offtime and blf-a6. It contains none of the fixes which blf-a6 got after thorough testing.
The exact code used for the blf-a6 production units is here. This might be helpful for getting voltage and OTC calibration the same.
To make the interface you described, you might want to take a look at tk-otc.c, which is blf-a6 minus the config mode, intended specifically for modding. It should be fairly simple to make it do as you described, by changing the mode table and commenting out “#define OFFTIM3”.
The DUAL_PWM_START method of handling two channels might be okay, but I found it to be less efficient and less flexible, and for lights with many modes it makes the channel-based tint shift much more noticeable (the LED produces different tints at 350mA and at 5A). It also eliminates the possibility of one popular mode set: low, 100% 7135, 100% FET. Oh, and it actually reduces the brightness of turbo mode (the 7135 needs to be off in that mode).
Anyway, I suspect that tk-otc.c may be closest to what you described.
Or there’s bistro, but it needs a tiny25. Bistro can be configured to do what you described without even reflashing (either use muggle mode or: mode group 3, mem off, moon off, med-press off, sane thermal ceiling).
Interesting, thanks ToyKeeper. I’ll take a gander at the code some more and also at tk-otc.c.
I think low, 99.6% 7135, 100% fet is doable with DUAL_PWM_START set to 254. Set medium to 254 and high/turbo to 255. That’s a bummer it reduces turbo brightness.
If I comment out “#define OFFTIM3” I lose all ability to fine tune the timing of the OTC though correct?
Try as I may I cannot adjust the offtime. I halved the value of #define DELAY_TWEAK to no effect. Stacking otc caps and shorting an otc cap from pin 4 to GND had no effect. Tried //#define OFFTIM3 with various #else#define CAP_SHORT values. I didn’t enable memory. Also I ran offtime-cap.c and didn’t get any flashing or anything.
You are right though TK, turbo is way brighter with the better dual pwm scheme. way brighter.
Oh, um. DELAY_TWEAK has nothing to do with the offtime capacitor. It changes the speed of strobe modes and other functions which need to measure time while the device is running.
I’d suggest tweaking “#define CAP_SHORT 180 // Anything higher than this is a short press, lower is a long press”. Line 161 in my copy.
The offtime-cap.hex firmware simply measures the OTC, waits a moment, then blinks out the raw value. To use it… connect power (to charge up the OTC), disconnect it for a specific amount of time, then connect power again. Write down the value. A metronome helps, as does taking a few measurements and averaging them. It blinks the digits in decimal, so 123 looks like “- – —”. A zero is represented by a really short blink.
I have another thread (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/38414) asking some questions, but it looks like OTC values or something is wierd. On a fully charged battery, the long presses and medium presses don’t work, everything is seen as a short press. Could this be a funky otc cap ? Can someone point me at the correct / final schematic for the driver ?
So it turns out that the Astrolux S1 has a tailcap switch with a blue LED thats hidden under the black tailcap cover.
Remove the 202 Resistor and now everything works as expected.
The new astrolux s1 may must have gotten a kronos x6 switch installed! Too bad it’s screwing with the offtime. You could get a clear boot and have a lit tailcap!
Wrong part in the wrong host, maybe even a whole batch. I can’t quite explain it politely, but it seems exemplary. It’s like the past year in a nutshell.
Thanks, but exemplary was precisely the word I was looking for. It’s a shining example… literally. A small part which illustrates the whole, serving to warn others. Archetypal, cautionary, a small but representative bit of the pattern.
It’s not necessarily something which should be imitated, as one meaning of the word implies, but it probably will be imitated (and already has, with similar unintended results).
Just thought I’d try and ask here. Disclaimer: Please feel free to say “you’re in the wrong place” or something of the equivalent. I’ve done some looking around but to no real avail….maybe my search skills or “correct terminology” ignorance are getting in the way.
I have an Astrolux S13D tint I bought after following some posts on the original BLF A6 and waiting around long enough to see the S1 come available with the short tube. I have 2 questions to start. Firstly, my sample of the S1 has what I would call 4 or 5 “rings” in the beam. There’s a decent hotspot in the middle but what I would call a fairly poor transition outside of that with several rings visible. I have a Nitecore EA11 I was kinda hoping this would replace (with short tube) but it’s beam pattern transition is much smoother and usable (IMHO) as far as the spill is concerned for everyday use.
1. Is there any simple way to improve the beam pattern? Different reflector drop-in? (have to admit not 100% sure what to look for)
2. What exactly does the TIR lens referenced in the referenced in the first post accomplish? I tried researching…but not sure still.
If anybody has links to specific parts and/or explanation as to what those parts would accomplish, it would be awesome.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Just another moderate flashaholic (but not a modder……yet)
Did you get a smooth reflector? These are supposed to come with an orange-peel reflector, because smooth reflectors get ringy.
A different reflector is likely to help, or a TIR optic, or you could just put some “DC Fix” on the lens to spread out the beam. That last option will make it much more floody though.
I haven’t tried the linked TIR lens, but from what I recall I think it’s maybe supposed to increase throw? Tighter hotspot? I also haven’t looked for other compatible reflectors… so I’m probably not much help. I usually just put DC Fix on everything except throwers.
It is orange-peel but not quite as pronounced as my Nitecore. I see by some quick searching that DC fix is quite popular (although I don’t know if the Tim Allen in me can let the few extra lumens go ). Even saw one of your threads with posts from SC52 comparison with and without. May look into the other options too. Do you have a particular recommendation of where to get the DC fix from or a particular brand/style? Or just google and get?
Thank you very much for the quick reply! I feel honored to hear back from the great Toykeeper.
I have read where the use of a paper clip will fix the gap in the tail section until a new tube can be shipped. It’s nice to have a working light in the meantime.
Have there been any posts saying it was the tail cap and not the tube? I just received some more A6’s with one not working and finally isolated it to the tail cap. After testing with the multimeter to confirm it wasn’t the switch, I then tried it on other A6’s with the same results, the tubes are fine but not the 1 tail cap.
I’m just wondering if this is an isolated case or the expected occasional hiccup that occurs.
I was checking thread depth very crudely with a small flat head screw driver after I had more than one a6. I seem to remember the issues were with the tail cap and not the tube. I was trying to Lego my bare with my anodized. So compare thread lengths male and female. and see what you come up with. But imho it’s really how far the retaining ring gets threaded down vs tube length.
If I recall correctly, it’s easy to get from the manufacturer in Germany, if you’re near there. I just got some from Amazon, I think. Ebay might be good too, or there are some forum members who sell it in pieces smaller than a full roll.
The “sand” variety is probably what you want. It’s still somewhat coarse though, so it’s not as nice as a frosted lens or a frosted optic. The artifacts aren’t usually visible, but if you rotate the light around its beam axis it’ll be clear that some areas are brighter than others.
If I could find a good source of arbitrary-sized glass lenses with one side frosted and no AR coating, … um, well, I can’t say it’d be life-changing, but it’d at least be pretty cool.
At first I thought the same but decided the tube end actually contacts the tailcap itself and not the retaining ring. At least I “think” I am correct O:-)
:GRADE: 
