The Samsung’s are to much for it. I bet if you discharged the 30q to about 3.5v it will work, meaning that the driver is like so many others of that type. They can’t handle the high amp draw. Best thing to do with that driver is replace it with one that has the new layout/parts or mod it
It is also still possible that battery length or other issues are causing the driver to think that there has been a half-press, and it then circles to moonlight as next mode. Has it really never done the flicker-and change-mode thing except on turbo?
My thoughts are if I drop the voltage of the cell it’ll be drawing more amps to keep the power up.
It works on VTC6’s and I have a few of those so it’ll keep one of those in it now.
I only bought the light as I didnt have one. I wont be relying on the light I was just a bit baffled when it decided that the 30Q wasn’t going to work with it.
The BLF A6 uses a FET driver (on high modes), so if you drop the cell voltage it will actually use less current (and be less bright).
But it should work fine with a 30Q. I have two of those lights, and they both work great on 30Q’s.
There must be something wrong with either your battery, or the driver. Perhaps the driver is faulty, and can’t handle high current? But you also said it didn’t work on old 28A cells, so that doesn’t make sense. Are you absolutely sure the 30Q you’re using is good?
what it does with low battery is drop levels til it gets to one that isn;t too low a voltage
not just go to moonlight
unless it is REALLY low, the battery condition
When my rugrats are asleep I’ll venture to my hidey hole and grab some more 30Q’s. The cell in question has no issue firing up the Emisar D4 at full pelt or the Klarus XT12GT. I’m confident it is okay but I have another 13 cells to check and 8 more should be with me tomorrow or the next day.
This is what I’m talking about. #991
Sometimes those old style drivers, especially the banggood ones with super cheap components, will act up when too much current passes through them. The new drivers such as DELs drivers and the TexasAvenger and Q8 have extra components built into the old FET+1 circuit to smooth out the electrical spike and other stuff that causes the old A6/X5/X6 drivers to act up. The X5/X6 driver is even more finiky that the A6 because it uses the attiny25 where the A6 uses attiny13. I’m not saying that this is the OPs problem but it may have something to do with it. I’ve experienced it many many times myself…