it would be the same, as each channel’s bridge controls one 7135 regulator, (except for the 3+4 bridge, which is for #3 and #4 chips together.) though the instruction was to have the 3+4 and #5 bridged with #6 and #7 left open for anyone wanting to mod-bridge that last two. (on each channel)
My lantern, #49 on the list, arrived Thursday(I wasn’t expecting it for at least a couple more weeks though), but I hadn’t yet checked the tracking or my mail. So very stoked! The LT1 turned out amazing, I can see it being a very big seller for Sofirn. What a great job done by every one involved in this masterpiece. My LT1 is going to be very heavily used.
I took a quick look, and have the correct 7135 bridges by default. Hopefully variations in chip pad bridging is a rare issue.
I did notice that the button is still the Thorfire version with the “T” on it, for those who care, but it doesn’t bother me in the least. The pictures really don’t capture it, but that button glow is indeed very nice. It looks just like the glowing embers of a dying fire!
It appears from the couple posts mentioning shipping/tracking and arrivals, that these lanterns may indeed be arriving much more quickly than items from China typically arrive, so it hopefully everyone gets their hands on their lantern fairly soon! My Amazon order was also saying expected delivery from Nov 7- Dec 2.
edit: Wording for clarity and I don’t remember what the default charge rate should be, but it’s easy enough to change
Thank you for sharing Den and Sunnysunsun for organizing, sounds like you guys had a blast, wish i could have made it to meet everyone in person however had to finish my job first, next time…
Den in that first picture the small light with the blue switch on top what is it, i like to get one if they`re still available.
djozz lumens measurement made me curious about the AMCs that are soldered.
Since I don’t have a way to measure lumens, I tried to measure the current used.
When set to max brightness and tint is at the warmest, I measure 1.80A (which seems to be correct 5x7135). But at max brightness and on the coolest temperature, I get 2.15A (so that seems to be 6x7135?). In the middle of tint ramping, I get a bit higher current consumption (like 2.25A).
The likely explanation then is that one of the 7135 chips for cool-white (labeled “AMC NW” on the board) may have been bridged (there are some solder visible both on “6” and “7” even though there looks like a “cut” to separate the solder into 2 halves.
(this may affect also my temperature result, since tint was at the middle which means it’s consuming a bit higher current, probably around 2.2A instead of just 1.8A)
Pardon my limited knowledge, how do I diagnose which of the 7135 chips may have been bridged?
Thanks! Instead of trying to make sure there is no bridge I’ll just solder them and rebridge them all. I’m an adult and no children, no matter what their age , will ever get near it* or any of my good lights.
*I have cheap Chinese lights that I hand to folks who are childish.
I just bridged again what was previously bridged at the factory and then given a sloppy wipe to remove the bridge. I noticed no difference in brightness after bridging them. I assume the wiping they did had no effect on their solder bridge at all. But last nights observation under magnification told me that. Hence my decision to make it an obvious bridge.
I’ll make it a point to compare a properly soldered batch 2 lantern to the one in hand now. I assume the workers will be properly trained by the time they get to mine in the high 2000’s. I might decide to bridge those as well. This screw up may have turned out to be serendipity for me. I never would have chosen to do it on my own.
Despite this I still like the lantern and am happy I bought it. We used it last night and it already has it’s niche use carved out.
One pleasant surprise… It charges the 4 cells more rapidly from a 2.4a input than I thought it would. It also gets body temperature warm when charging. I never expected that.
Be careful with the orange O-ring. I’ve lost mine twice now. I don’t want to put adhesive on it so I’m open to suggestions. I might look for smaller versions that will stay in place better, or just leave it off next time it comes off.
Its nornal for four 18650s to warm up a bit when charging, (at 500mAh each) It was mentioned to Sofirn to use a smaller, tighter orange o-ring if possible in that upper head groove for the bumper.)