Gotcha, thanks!
Should the switch LED change color when USB charging?
I just bridged again what was previously bridged at the factory and then given a sloppy wipe to remove the bridge. I noticed no difference in brightness after bridging them. I assume the wiping they did had no effect on their solder bridge at all. But last nights observation under magnification told me that. Hence my decision to make it an obvious bridge.
I’ll make it a point to compare a properly soldered batch 2 lantern to the one in hand now. I assume the workers will be properly trained by the time they get to mine in the high 2000’s. I might decide to bridge those as well. This screw up may have turned out to be serendipity for me. I never would have chosen to do it on my own.
Despite this I still like the lantern and am happy I bought it. We used it last night and it already has it’s niche use carved out.
One pleasant surprise… It charges the 4 cells more rapidly from a 2.4a input than I thought it would. It also gets body temperature warm when charging. I never expected that.
Be careful with the orange O-ring. I’ve lost mine twice now. I don’t want to put adhesive on it so I’m open to suggestions. I might look for smaller versions that will stay in place better, or just leave it off next time it comes off.
red for charging, green for charge complete is what I recall reading elsewhere.
Dam you Batch 1
Time for an email / trouble shoot
Thanks
The FireFlies PL47? i bought the sand colored version with SST20 4000K, can be found here: [♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ENDED
Yep, roughly 60 degrees C (140 F) i did a video of the head temps: >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2jEtJOjd2c
Its nornal for four 18650s to warm up a bit when charging, (at 500mAh each) It was mentioned to Sofirn to use a smaller, tighter orange o-ring if possible in that upper head groove for the bumper.)
Here are my quick impressions of the LT I just received:
1. Pads 6&7 are tinned but open while 3,4,5 are closed, as they should be per the design
2. Charging turned off at 4.17v using partially charged 18650’s
3. The orange o-ring slips off too easily so I’ll probably either super glue it on or just leave it off
4. The LT reached 129F (54C) on my thermal gun which is right in line with what DBSAR measured
5. The battery carrier of the LT fits and works with my original BLF Q8. The Q8 battery carrier fits with the LT head but does not light up
6. Thorfire switch cap 
7. Anodizing looks great with no visible flaws.
8. Lantern was well packaged as delivered with cellophane tape covering the diffuser
9. 14 days from time of order to reaching me (ordered on Amazon)
10. Usb cover is thick and appears to me to that it will keep water out. However I can’t shake the feeling that it will eventually break off and then get lost
jigsaw: A question would typically be more effective in ascertaining answers than an observational statement like this.
- It doesn’t matter where my general location is. I could be in the UK, I could be situated in the U.S. Either way, people from either of these regions have already recieved their lights.
- Have a great day.
Does anyone know of a US source for high capacity cells that would work good in the LT1? I wish I had ordered with batteries but it seemed like I was complicating my order so I just ordered with out.
Mountain and Lion Wholesale seem to be out of stock. Guess I could just use 30Q like I use in the Q8. What would be a decent battery I can order in the US?
Thanks
Illumn has become my fave !
Order $50, free shipping!
Thank you very much.
I’m guessing they have a truck load of left over T-button caps. :partying_face: I did mention to Barry they need to use a smaller (tighter) o-ring. So far the USB cover is still attached to the prototype, but maybe they should include a spare with the light.
Running on 5 chips?? Can’t imagine how hot it gets running on 7 chips.
any ideas on what to try to get USB charging to work?
USB charging fixed…. not compatible with my usb C pixel chargers…( I have 3)
What is the purpose of the orange o-ring around the head?
probably ding protection if it tips over
two posibilities that I can think of.
One, just the switch LED isn’t working, a thought based on this:
For this just try plugging it in for an hour and see if the battery voltage changes using the clicks.
Two, time to pull the driver out and use an ohm meter/volt meter to see where the open or problem is. Unless you really feel comfortable doing this, I don’t really recommend this one, probably better to return to Sofirn for a replacement.
Probably not a lot of help, but troubleshooting from afar can be difficult.