I have a SRK here with two burnt springs from when someone put the cells in with alternating polarity. And they were only NCR18650A cells, the old low-amp ones. The rest of the light is fine, but the fuses (er, springs) are dead and need to be replaced.
It may be possible sometimes to get away with battery mistreatment, like mismatched or maybe even reversed cells, but we shouldnāt recommend it or consider it a selling point of the light.
FWIW, the switch LED has no significant effect on how long the batteries last during standby.
However, it might be interesting to replace the switch LEDās plain beacon mode with one indicating voltage. Basically, if enabled, instead of blinking once every few seconds while off, it could maybe blink 1 to 4 times to indicate how full the batteries are. (4 is full, 1 is close to empty)
Personally, I prefer to leave the switch LED in a constant-on state while the light is off, and check the battery state with the battcheck function. Having it blink all the time is kind of annoying.
Yeah, to be clear: I DO NOT RECOMMEND putting any cells into any possibly āharmfulā situation intentionally. But, I definitely want to show appreciation for all the R&D these four top brands put into their cells. I would literally trust any of them with my life. The others, not so much.
The user name list often as the last few entries not sorted in, so if you donāt find your name in alphabetical order just look at the end of the list.
Some updates on the mess i am dealing with outside the community, but donāt worry, i will be still working on this BLF lantern project to make it a reality for everyone, as i have dreamed of designing a lantern that has the best of what a lantern can do.
That is oddā¦ i never of ācharge errorsā before. I have the exact same 10-watt Eceen model, and min has never did that reset thing, it always charged my Samsung Note-3 perfectly and the V1 of the lantern perfectly. ( after 4 ~ 5 hours of use on high mode with the V1 each night, the Eceen 10W charges it back up to full charge easily in a day of good sun. Maybe if i can get the time i should do a video review too on that panel & use my USB monitor to see how it goes.
MegaWoodswalker actually mentioned that he was confused at first, but noticed while using his USB meter that the reset was occurring exactly every 3 minutes. ECEEN commented on his 10 Watt review and verified that this is indeed a feature:
This reset feature works around Appleās pickiness about third-party accessories (and even cables! :person_facepalming: ) working with their phones and tablets. Iāll bet that most iPhone users are familiar with the āThis accessory may not be supportedā error.
The way MegaWoodswalker explains it, intermittent cloud cover causes a drop in charge, which makes the iPhone think itās connected to a questionable/faulty power source and triggers the error. The iPhone will not resume charging until power is disconnected and reconnected.
Thatās great news. Iām excited to try capturing sunlight to be used at night. :partying_face:
That would be great. I enjoyed your BLF Lantern videos.
I think BLF Lantern users who plan multi-day trips away from electricity could really benefit from your input about a compact and portable solar charging kit.
The Samsung LH351D has been pretty disappointing to me. I just tried a Meteor M43 with Samsung LH351D 4000k 90CRI and I much prefer the stock M43 with 4000k 5D 70CRI XP-L HI. On the 4000k LH351D, everything including white appears yellowish whereas with the 4000k 5D tint, whites actually looks white. Colors are rendered more vivid on the 70CRI 4000k 5D tint compared to the 90CRI 4000k LH351D to my huge surprise. My 4000k 219B 9050 lights also does not have the yellowish tinting and renders colors even better.
Maybe consider the SST-20 95CRI 3000k as that one was tested by Djozz to be at or below the BBL so we wonāt get that yellowish tinting. The Samsungs Iāve read are all above the BBL so the tint is yellowish/green.
Also consider the 219B 2700k 9050. You can order a sample from LEDRISE. They told me Nichia doesnāt have the 2700k 9080 but have 3000k - 4500k available in 9080.
The Nichia E21A is better than the 219B-V1 most applications up to 2A. Itās more efficient if you factor in the missing dome. Itās also available in a wider range of CCTs and has a more even tint because of the missing dome.