Sofirn sent me code and said to go to amazon.com.au and search “BLF LT1”.
Nothing comes up when I search though.
Tried searching “sofirn” but LT1 doesn’t exist either.
Sent Sofirn a message the on the 22nd, still waiting for a reply.
I know they’ll have a lot on their plate,has anyone had this problem ?
Cheers
RobertB, I didn’t jump ahead of anything. I merely followed ordering instructions like everyone else. I think I’m on the list twice: Once for two, then later for one more. Maybe Sofirn drew my earlier entry.
Several thousand people will get a nice lantern for a fair price. What will the price be later, colors, firmware? Quis scit? One day I hope to have three or four of the LT1’s. I’m not particular about which day…
djozz, in that photo i see the AMC bridge 3+4 and 5 left open, (those bridges should arrive as closed (bridged) on both channels, and the last 6 & 7-bridge left open by default. (in your pic i can’t see unless i had a higher resolution, but it looked as if many of the bridges were not soldered correctly bridged.
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Cujo255, I did a search for “led lantern” on eBay/Amazon/google and turned up hundreds of lanterns that weren’t there five years ago. At least that’s my recollection.
Tonight’s Flashlight dinner meet was awesome! we had 5 people, (4 members on BLF) organized by BLF member Sunnysunsun , Also BLF member Nooner attended, MrSDI, and CPF member Matrix.
We had some real titanium flashlight gems on the table, and the BLF LT1 final production Prototype lit our dinner table and glistened the titanium of the works of art, and lit the beam-shot run in the nearby park. (LT1 was on the tripod, with V1 & V2 mixed among our lights.
We had a large number of amazing lights we lit up the skies with.
I noticed something related on mine. It looks as though 6&7 were soldered over on mine then wiped sort of clear of solder, except they still appear bridged to my eye. Should I put solder on them to make a good bridge since the damage is done or heat them up and try to actually get them clean?
I can take a pic and try to post it if that would help.
(a bit later) Yup, that’s exactly the way it looks to me after putting a magnifying glass to it (30x?). The others, 3, 4&5 are bridged, 6&7 were bridged, wiped, but still appear to have a connection from a hasty and sloppy wipe.
doesn’t sound like any damage done to me. If you want them connected, leave them. If not, it sounds like whatever bridge is there is so small you could likely remove it with a needle. Either way I would leave the same number connected. Probably easier to verify they are connected with an ohm meter (if you have one).
The only thing those bridges would do is make one or the other set of LEDs a bit brighter. If you want to force longer run times, clean up (on each side) at least 6 and 7, if not 5. If you are happy getting maximum run times by not turning it all the way up, and you like the option of being able to turn it all the way up, close both sets of 4, 5, 6 and 7.
I do have one. I won’t damage anything by testing continuity?
using a ohm meter is fine. either way the planned factory default was to have the LT1’s set with the 3+4 (two 7135 chips are on that bridge) and the #5 solder-bridged from the factory, with the last #6 and #7 left open, (no solder showing both the half-circle pads not connected, on each of the two channels) so that the lantern arrives with 5-7135 chips enabled on each channel enabled, with the remaining two left open for anyone who wanted another 30% average output through out each mode increased, but as a sacrificed run time. (as the original goal was to have this lantern able to have run times much, much longer than any other factory consumer lantern on the market for a given lumens output. Even having all 7-7135 chips enabled, the LT1 can provide 2 or 3 nights of maximum mode light on one charge, while having the default 5-chips enabled increased that run time by another 30+ %. or another day. the output of the 5-7135 versus the 7-7135 is not a big jump, but does increase the run time, and lowers the head temperatures noticeably when its run on its maximum mode. (hence safer for children to handle with less heat.
Would it matter if the 6+7 were bridged instead of 4+5? Isn’t the amount of enabled 7135s still the same? As long as the solder bridges were solid.
If I understand, if I bridge them again I affect only the high end of battery usage. As long as I don’t go up to maximum it affects nothing? For example, right now I have it set to as low as it can go in continuous ramping. That low setting will still be there?
Think of it as a speed governor on a car. You can still go as slow as you like, no matter what your maximum is set to.
Fwiw, ordered on 12th, “shipped” on 13th, delivery between nov and december lol…from Amazon.
it would be the same, as each channel’s bridge controls one 7135 regulator, (except for the 3+4 bridge, which is for #3 and #4 chips together.) though the instruction was to have the 3+4 and #5 bridged with #6 and #7 left open for anyone wanting to mod-bridge that last two. (on each channel)
My lantern, #49 on the list, arrived Thursday(I wasn’t expecting it for at least a couple more weeks though), but I hadn’t yet checked the tracking or my mail. So very stoked! 
The LT1 turned out amazing, I can see it being a very big seller for Sofirn. What a great job done by every one involved in this masterpiece. My LT1 is going to be very heavily used.
I took a quick look, and have the correct 7135 bridges by default. Hopefully variations in chip pad bridging is a rare issue.
I did notice that the button is still the Thorfire version with the “T” on it, for those who care, but it doesn’t bother me in the least. The pictures really don’t capture it, but that button glow is indeed very nice. It looks just like the glowing embers of a dying fire!
It appears from the couple posts mentioning shipping/tracking and arrivals, that these lanterns may indeed be arriving much more quickly than items from China typically arrive, so it hopefully everyone gets their hands on their lantern fairly soon! My Amazon order was also saying expected delivery from Nov 7- Dec 2.
edit: Wording for clarity and I don’t remember what the default charge rate should be, but it’s easy enough to change
Thank you for sharing Den and Sunnysunsun for organizing, sounds like you guys had a blast, wish i could have made it to meet everyone in person however had to finish my job first, next time…
Den in that first picture the small light with the blue switch on top what is it, i like to get one if they`re still available.
That looks like you had a fun night in Toronto:-)
That angle light seems a Fireflies flashlight to me.
djozz lumens measurement made me curious about the AMCs that are soldered.
Since I don’t have a way to measure lumens, I tried to measure the current used.
When set to max brightness and tint is at the warmest, I measure 1.80A (which seems to be correct 5x7135). But at max brightness and on the coolest temperature, I get 2.15A (so that seems to be 6x7135?). In the middle of tint ramping, I get a bit higher current consumption (like 2.25A).
The likely explanation then is that one of the 7135 chips for cool-white (labeled “AMC NW” on the board) may have been bridged (there are some solder visible both on “6” and “7” even though there looks like a “cut” to separate the solder into 2 halves.
(this may affect also my temperature result, since tint was at the middle which means it’s consuming a bit higher current, probably around 2.2A instead of just 1.8A)
Pardon my limited knowledge, how do I diagnose which of the 7135 chips may have been bridged?