Thank you DBSAR for creating this gem. Some lights just give you joy and this is one of them. I just keep it on my desk to give that warm tint to my office space in the evenings. Thanks!
I ordered my for Sofirn official store on AliExpress. Took about 8 weeks to arrive (took them 3 weeks to ship). But eventually all is good.
im waiting, they said it will be available on amazon.ca near end of november…im not sure how long ordering from their site will take, anybody have experience? is it faster, slower, or about the same as any other BG/AE orders?
i just ordered a IF25A direct from sofirn. placed the order last sunday, it shipped tuesday.
[edit]back when i still used amazon, my LT1 shipped from china anyway.
ya i can order now, well not LT1, some other lights, and its sold by sofirn, and shipped from china, but if i wait till their stock gets to amazon warehouse, then its fulfilled by amazon, then its much faster.
placing order on sunday and shipping on tuesday sounds a bit slow, all BG and AE orders so far have shipped within 24 hours of me placing order.
from what I understand of rev 5 board there are 0 ohm resistors in positions 4 and 5 already. so soldering those pads does nothing
I believe so
[quote=TimMc]
Would soldering pads 6 and 7 negatively impact the mixing of NW and WW?
[quote]
Not if you solder both 6’s and/or both 7’s
If you solder 6 and 7 the lowest level of the light, or moonlight as you referenced, would be somewhat brighter. The amount of current that is consumed by the batteries scales pretty linearly based on the number of channels connected. The lights brightness doesn’t scale linearly, at least as perceived by our eyes.
Thanks! I’ll try to add small switches instead. I like moonlight modes. The ability to crank it up for extra output without needing a soldering iron would be nice.
somewhere in this thread I posted a table of different current draw from batteries based on how many of the driver pairs are enabled, but I can’t find it now . . .
i also run mine a bit warm from full cool color (4000K?). 1 step down from full brightness it runs pretty cool. at full brightness (again color a bit warm from full cool) it gets pretty warm.
5 does seems like the sweet spot for this lantern. any more you get diminishing returns with brightness, more heat, and less runtime.
in my opinion, DBSAR nailed it!
thanks again for all the work you put into this amazing light sir.
I've been working on a version of Anduril 2.0 that'll support faking high-res PWM on the ATtiny85 (which is the MCU in the LT1). High-res PWM will enable lower brightness settings despite more AMC7135 being connected, and more importantly virtually stepless tint mixing all the way down to the lowest brightness setting, which I'm personally excited about. So far it looks quite promising. With the default 8-bit PWM the tint looks quite inconsistent while changing brightness at the low-end, too. It looks quite "steppy".
However, I'm unsure how to share the firmware once I'm happy with it. My changes should technically also work for the original Anduril, but I don't have any experience with how code is merged for future updates, and in general I made changes to several files of ToyKeeper's FSM, so I guess I'd have to share all of these in a ZIP or something. Guess I'll have to read up on the license once it's time.