It sounds like it may have been reduced a bit too far. But yeah, getting it flat across all brightness and tint settings at all voltages would require rather a lot of data and a very detailed correction matrix. That’s probably not feasible. It’s a 3-dimensional space.
But we could at least get it sort of close using the simple method used now.
This build increases the value a bit, and hopefully it’s closer to flat (ish):
I’m using a 30Q cell at 3.8V. Just what I had laying around, took of our of my Q8. I’ve compared a Sofirn cell at 4.2V and the currents look pretty close. 1.74 volts at default on level 5 with the 30Q, 1.81A from the Sofirn at 4.15V. So a bit more current at higher voltages, but I’m not thinking of adding that variable into this testing.
Do you expect the “b” build to be flatter across the various levels? Level 5 is really close now it seems, and level 1 is always flat.
I just retook data for the default level on the five levels with 2019-11-29b.blf-lantern.hex, its even closer. the data for the WW and NW columns is just a copy, I didn’t re-verify it, as it seems like that shouldn’t change.
That seems like it’s probably close enough. I may try to adjust the formula again sometime after receiving a production model, but it seems like what it has now should work.
Is there a post with instructions on how flash the Anduril firmware on the LT1? I’d love to play testing out new firmware or try putting my own custom firmware on it.
There is not a set of instructions specific for the LT1, but I will point you toward a helpful thread. First a few comments.
There exists a device I believe you can purchase that will interface with the programming pads visible at about 3 o’clock in the picture below. not a great pic, but I think you’ll get the idea. Lexel sells them. I’ve bought a D4 aux light board from him, he sent it quickly, and his prices are reasonable. I just haven’t ever motivated to get one of the programming keys, maybe some day. First the programming key pic, then the driver board with the pads at 3 o’clock.
I’m noticing more pins on the key than pads on the board, guessing you can/would figure that out, or Lexel could tell you.
In the event you don’t want to go that route, you will need an 8 pin chip clip to interface to the Attiny85 chip. This thread has lots of info to get you going. I used it when I began to learn to flash my D4. The only SW you need to load is the AVR Tools and the USBasp driver, unless you want to write/modify firmware, then I think ATMEL studio is useful (I’m guessing here).
First, I’ll note that eventually I did reverify that the WW and NW levels did not change in the 29b build.
Here is what I shared with ToyKeeper regarding the change of brightness. First paragraph are notes on the 2019-11-29 build,
then the second paragraph notes on the 2019-11-29b build:
The intensity dip is pretty minor, but perceptible.
So what I never tested or commented on is how much brighter the stock build is for levels 2, 4 and 5 on the default tint setting.
In my mind the real advantage of the 29b build vs the as delivered build is it has SOS mode, and it doesn’t draw more current (shorter run times) on the default tint setting. In the big picture minor stuff.
Great work GreenCampfire! :+1:
Are you still testing other levels? I can a link to this topic on the main LT1 topic so others can see your test results if you like.
Haha, whoops BFLAlias is my roommate and I was replying on his computer (I also convinced him to order a lantern). Yes please feel free to link on the main LT1 topic.
After reading all your current measurements during the tint ramp, I was wondering if you also measured the brightness, because I am not sure if we even need a linear current curve during the tint ramping. At least theoretically the effiency (lm/W) of the Leds should be higher when the current is spead over more leds, which means that we should have a slight dip in the mid of the current curve, although I am not sure how noticible the effect is in this case.
Unfortunately the firmware programming “holes” om LT1 don’t work for me.
I do have the Lexel programming key, 3 pieces, purchased from Fireflies. This tool worked for Fireflies E01 and PL47G2 (I upgraded their firmware successfully more than once), however it didn’t work with Fireflies ROT66G2 and BLF LT1. ROT66G2 and LT1 have a newer design of programming “holes”, while E01 and PL47G2 have the old design — programming “pads”. The old “pads” make much better contact with the pogo-pins, so you can easily reflash as long as the pins are aimed at the pads correctly. However with the new design of “holes”, the contact cannot be made reliably.
I have spent more than 3 hours on my ROT66G2 and LT1, hundreds of times, making sure that the pogo-pins are all pushed into the “holes” each time, however AVRDUDE couldn’t even read the MCU id correctly, each time. The only reliable way to reflash the firmware for ROT66G2 or LT1 is to pull out the driver and use a programming clip directly. That involves removing the soldered wires each time, and it’s tedious.
I also sanded the tips of the pogo-pins on the programming key, slightly or heavily, and tried several times, still didn’t work.
I like both ROT66G2 and LT1, however I think the programming feature is fairly important and should have been well tested…
EDIT: I just soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.
. And thanks designing such a great lantern!