There is no good headlamp driver or UI on wide market. Its possible to make balanced good headlamp driver but its not reasonable.(at least for me;)
The 5A+FET d4v2 driver (flashed with nofet firmware) and a pair of K1 switches was $16, but I recommend using the convoy switch and doing an AUX delete, it was a huge pain to get it centered right (square peg in round hole)
Thanks, good to know.
I just wish the H1 driver wasnt 21mm. Like, really? 21mm? Tsk.
Very hard to find good headlamps for a good price. Even the dw4 that doesn’t really work as a headlamp I would still buy, but by the time you option it out, boost driver, 519a, etc, its almost $100. I would still pay that though if it actually worked better as a headlamp. And the D2 is out of the question I go through 2 or 3 18650s and a 21700 or two every night just in headlamps, is need a backpack full of 14500s.
I saw on skilhunt’s AliExpress store they offered an xhp50 version at one point of the h03 or 04 or w/e, and I wonder if they used a 6v and boost driver because you can still see the price and it was like $150! Is that what it cost them to make that work?? Geez. I thought they were overpriced before.
I wonder if your use would be better suited to a light with an external battery pack. It wouldn’t be that complicated to have a D2 tailcap modified so it has an external 1S2P pack of 21700s and a dummy cell inside, so that it doesn’t weigh down your head but still works for a very long time. Just takes a small hole drilled and a few modifications to the tailcap PCB.
Another option if you have a dremel might be to carefully enlarge the driver pocket of the H1 so that a 22mm D1 driver fits with the edge filed down. It would be something I would try myself if I didn’t already have my perfect headlamp with a DW4.
Thats actually what I used to do before I found this forum. I’d wire a headlamp to an 18650 battery holder. I’ve come full circle lol
Idk, the battery pack gets in the way. Never found a way to make it work.
Just making a 22mm fit does seem like the easiest option
I’d have to put a spring on it but that looks like a good candidate
i can produce 6V 3A driver for H1
4 Thanks
I’ll buy a few. Especially if it has the same smooth ramping UI as the H1 and H3 and S21e do now.
Anduril would be nice, the ramping speed on my current H1 is frustrating.
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One thing at a time I don’t wanna get greedy lol
That would be great! But headlamp must have different mode spacing. More modes in low side. For example: moon - low5ma- mediumlow15ma- medium40ma- high1.2A- turbomax. Thats for 3V led out! For 6V half . Compare it to Skilhunts H series output.
P.S. output levels nonsense , read post 24 below.
Since I was buying some spares from Hank, I asked what a boost driver cost.
It is $18 for either the 6V 4A, 6V 3A (B35AM) and 12V 2A drivers.
Seems like there is also an option for a 2.5A noFET driver for using even lower current LEDs like the 219b and XP-E clones in a D1, which opens up some more possibilities for putting them into other hosts.
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what’s current of the moonlight mode?
Will there be no difference in the visual effect of these currents?
1.Moon like <=1ma. But To get moonlight on switching driver you will need rocket science tech like Zebralight have.
2.On low mode is big difference.
Only 6 brightness levels?
is the strobe or SOS needed to be added?
It can be added, but separated from main modes , accessible by 3 or 4 clicks from off. Its a long story to write proper headlamp UI.;)) Some example. That UI is polished and waiting for attiny1616 21mm driver ;))
40ma for medium? That’s seems way too low. But I’m all for more low side modes if it makes smooth ramping more linear, visually. In a perfect world, if I’m wishing for things, I’d still want high to be high tho. >3a on a 3v with an 18650. I’d go higher if heat wasn’t an issue. But for turbo go all out.
Do people want strobe on headlamps? Seems odd but idk. Only special feature I like on a headlamp (besides moonlight, smooth ramping, and turbo) is battery check. The way the convoy headlamps do battery check now is excellent. Best battery check out there on a non-anduril headlamp. In a perfect world I’d make it 3 clicks instead of 5 tho.
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I was drunk or something. Indeed forgot to add a zero 
For 3v led , linear driver input voltage: moon(as low as possible and usable. I use 2 moon modes for smooth transaction to low) - low20ma - 50ma - 140ma - 400ma - high1A. to 1,…A (depends on host thermal mass) and turbo-max for short time. And off course, for every driver schematics ir should be fine tuned.
And i hate seamless smooth dimming.
Smooth ramping is the only thing that separates us from the animals! Lmao
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Thats why we need damn Attiny IC to flash FW we want ;))