Try shaking, tapping, and such to see if the flicker happens with any kind of disturbance.
If so I’d bet on a cracked/cold solder join and look first around whatever grounds the driver to the pill.
vidramon, with regards to precisely determining the impact of the centering ring colour on the beam, you may want to take a couple of comparative beamshot pictures, in the likes of the one you posted above in #1. Just make sure to swap the centering rings between the flashlights for each shot, nothing else.
Cheers ^:)
Posted on Thu, 11/10/2016 - 03:43. Edited for a quick fix.
No, I do not notice any flickering on my mine. I did not notice any on the stock driver (played with it for several days in stock configuration) and I do not notice any now with BLF A6 FET +1 driver.
I have had this issue with some XP-L Hi B158B’s I got recently - the emitters were very inconsistent compared to the first ones I got. Some were more patchy and yellowish in places when focused and aimed at a white wall.
And a handful even had dead spots on them, as bad as half the emitter not working at all.
The sometimes inconsistent quality is a shame, as these are otherwise a great focusing light IMO.
Great idea ! I will do it today.
This bold text is about what I say for that dots on led when pointing it on the wall in full zoom ?
This dots are not standard dots like blitzwing say there is impression that 20-30% of led not working at all…
I’m now opening the pill, which is hell…
There’s a AK47 driver in there, under a ring i can’t get out (yet) and it was hidden by a PCB with the spring soldered on it.
That PCB is ruined now…
But the driver is AK47 with 4 stars so it could have been low-mid-high without blinkies.
Still not sure what the (mild) flickering problem is…
Could be because the (-) is connected by a thin wire to the driver, driver sits loose inside the pill.
This would explain why it flickers with even the slightest movement.
Now trying to get that ring out so i can see what’s up (or what’s down)…
My conclusion for now the problem is in the pill and that the manufacturer is a jerk for the assembly as it is…
This helps ?
One of my early ones had a flickering problem which turned out to be a bad earth. From memory it was a loose switch retainer but if that does not fix it I’d strip the whole light and tailcap and clean all the threads before reassembly.
Ah….
Too late… 
I bet he’s gonna tell me to heat it up t unsolder that stupid ring…
Thanks though for posting it.
(edit)
I have an extra PCB with the spring, unfortunately not as easy as in the video…
@#&! How ami gonna get that frecking ring out without baking the driver to a crisp??
What the %^#\½¿ … etcetera…
(edit)
Gonna have to get my 100 Watts soldering rod out, hope i won’t fill the threads with lead…
@Jeromel, that ring is press fit into the pill.
On the top (LED side), desolder the wires from the MCPCB, and push them back through down into the pill. Then put a nail or similar long thin item through the hole in the pill, and use it as a punch to push the driver (and retaining ring) out through the bottom.
I pulled off the PCB which had the spring on it.
That PCB was soldered in that ring.
The driver is under the ring.
Yeah, the MCPCB with LED are removed already.
But i fear i’ll ruin the driver when i punch it through the hole.
None the less, the ring has to be press fit, hadn’t thought of that so thanks. :+1:
I will put the spring on the driver and skip the PCB (which is ruined anyway…)
I managed to pull the ring out.
The driver is a 105C nanjg or clone (?)
Sorry to hijack the topic with my pill troubles,but i think soldering the 105C in the ring and pressing it in the pill again will solve the problem.
I’ll let you know.
The flickering problem of my B158 is solved. 
Apparently the little wire from pill to ‘floating’ (rattling) driver board was not enough or maybe the rattling of the driver in the pill caused some confusion for the driver chip, i still don’t know.
Driver board soldered on adapter ring, ring pressed in pill again.
double springs soldered upside down (because there’s not much room) on the driver board now.
2nd star (counting clockwise) soldered to () so it’s low mid - high 3 modes now.
LED on noctigon to adjust focus limit. (stock MCPCB was 1mm thick)
Less protruding switch boot so it can tailstand even when off.
2mm spacer between pill and main tube increasing head travel to widen the max. flood a little, will add some more later.
Still a pity the LED die is so patchy though…
Floating drivers suck, and I really don’t know why they did that.
Did you try checking continuity on the wire? Could be it was broken inside the insulation and intermittent, from moving around over time, even if not bad solder at either end.
Poor design anyhow.
I do this and I can tell you that I was in wrong !
Centering ring colour does not affect on the led colour temperature like I think (this was my first logical opinion), after I swap centering rings and try the colours remain same.
So we here have 2 problems now as I can see.
1. Obvious they got some other kind of leds inside compared to the old version, I don’t like this new one because of colour temperature and also like blitzwing earlier say ‘’even had dead spots on them, as bad as half the emitter not working at all’’, I also have one kind of this.
2. Flickering or whatever problem.
So I will warn people about this because I don’t like it at all, I will always recommend this light because it is great for the price but with this disadvantages, no thanks.
I can’t understand everything what you guys write my english is not on that fantastic level, even translate can’t help sometimes, so if someone can write message about all issues of this light and how to solve a flickering problem, that I can copy paste it, will be great because I can send it to right people.
vidramon:
Well, if you don't like the emitter tint, just swap it. Simple, easy mod. XP-G3 maybe?
Bueno, si no te gusta el tinte del emisor, cámbialo. Mod sencilla y simple. ¿XP-G3 quizá?
Cheers ^:)
I wish there is DeLorean for rent so I could get back in past and buy good old type of Cree emitters.
And when we talk that Cree is catching up with other manufacturers and market demand I am really interested to know which market do they aim?
Flashlight market? Cree IMHO messed it badly with modified production process. So I guess they don’t care for flashlight market and our opinion?
Old type of emitters where more resilient and better (better for modding jobs with greater lux performance).
Get on with the times, fellows. Time to reinvent the wheel.
I am neither an expert in optics nor do I have much jackshit experiential level with them but honestly, if you're really looking for throw, it may be worth considering to try TIR + convex + concave triple lenses setups. They would also provide the highest end zooming experience (laser beams feasible with ease 
) without the need for impractically wide torches/toilet plungers. Just speculation, of course.
Cheers ^:)