Brinyte PD03A Q5 (1xAAA) .... a post from the past

Interesting to note, the most famous German flashaholic/flashlight seller, the "Papst" (engl. the pope), carries the Brinyte ("Britney" how he calls her affectionately haha) as favorite keychain light, listen to his words from 03:00 on:

I am sure that the average production model of the Brinyte is brighter than the average production model of my reviewed Tank E09 .. but there's some good points to the latter: it's hell cheap on DD (with the DD discounting system), easy to fix/repair/improve, and it's new.

New is nice. haha

Hi guys,
I've had this light for about 2years. There are some issues with it that are worth noting. The light draws 1.8 amps oh high with nimh, so runtime is
about 20 minutes. Brightness levels with NiMh are the same as those of geniune ld01, so i'd estimate 80 lumens for high and 8 for low. Protected 10440 do not fit. I had to replace the spring with a new one made of a thinner wire to make them fit. With 10440 the light runs for 30-35 minutes (until protection shuts it down.) Even an instant before shutdown it is brighter with exhausted 10440 than with freshly charged NiMh. So you gain both in brightness and runtime using Li-ion batteries. By the way, protected 10440 fit genuine Fenix with no problem. At some moment the driver broke down, so I had to replace it. This was not caused by using 10440 as I started using them after the driver started to behave strangely (Well, it was almost ok except that sometimes it didn't turn on. At that point I was no longer afraid to burn it down with Li-ion batteries). The LED seems to be glued with an ordinary glue. Also, there should be an o-ring at the junction of the upper and lower part of the head, but it was missing.

I'm not sure about runtime of the light with 10440 as I started using them when the driver was not working well.

i think the biggest turn off of the light is its long and cryptic and suspicious name. i mean.. why didnt they go all along and called it Brinyte PDKWXQ-TTU0703POC-WWTF Q5?

The company name is cool ('brai-nait or bree-'nait or 'britt-ney ggg) .. but the product name isnt a product name but a frikkin UPC code!! :D

What if i had signed up for BFL with user name "PDKWXQ-TTU0703POC-WWTF" instead of "kreisler"?? Would i've been suspicious or what? :bigsmile:

Your amp reading would explain the brightness of this light, but of course it comes at a price. I think the TF F23 has a similar short runtime

Mine seems to be glued there between the intersections of the head.

Welcome to BLF btw.

@kreisler.... you are always suspicious ;-)

and you aint in Location: Germany :party:

;)

No, I'm in Gemany ... at least that's what my flashlights keep telling me.

now i get it!!

H)

Mine was also, I had to apply some force to unscrew it.

Welcome to BLF, sneym321.

I think the manufacturer thought that o-rings aren't needed if it is sealed by glue. If you watch the videos in this thread, you can see versions of this light with unglued heads and o-rings between the intersections.

Overdog has received his Brinyte PD03A and also the UF M5 R5. To my surprise he seems to prefer the look, feel and build quality of the Ultafire.

Vectrex, have you ever measured runtimes of 10440's and Eneloops in the Brinyte?

And do the 47.1mm Protected Ultrafire (not Trustfire) 10440's fit?

Not that i am interested in buying the Brinyte but it is interesting to compare the performances. i measured amperages and runtimes in depth for my AAA lights and am constantly refining the results, see the table at the end of the OP.

it is a fact that the Tank E09 is brighter than the iTP A3 XPGR5 on all levels *with Eneloops*. On 10440's the iTP A3 is brighter on High-mode. Much much brighter. And the amperages confirm my observation.

If the Brinyte is brighter than the E09 on Eneloops, then we need to wonder about runtimes and amperages ;)

I don't own 10440...but...

thanks! Do you still use it ? ( apart from good light output, it is clearly longer and heavier than the Tank ) Has amazing current draw on NimH, so looks like it is indeed brighter than the E09!

Well, since I have my DQG tiny II on my keychain at all times none of my other AAA lights see much usage any more... the Brinyte is still a nice light and a good alternative for people who don't want to shell out +$30 for a keychain light... especially if you prefer high energy cool white beams and strobe modes... BTW still no news on the tiny III?

PD03B finally got here nearly 8 weeks after ordering from Easylight. This is my first proper twisty since those dark Maglite Solitaire days and straightaway I liked it. There appear to be a couple of small differences from Vectrex's Brinyte PD03A , but overall it seems to be pretty much the same torch. Small, lightweight, plenty bright enough for a keychain light and fit/finish seem excellent. One handed twist action is easier than I thought it would be, and on/off and mode change work perfectly.

To answer the tail magnet question, there isn't one. At the moment this doesn't matter too much as the torch is on my keychain, so a magnet might even get in the way. I may glue one into the tail recess, but it would need to be of a smaller diameter than the tail ring, or the mini split keyring that I've hooked through the lanyard hole, (and which is linked with a bigger keyring), wouldn't be able to swivel freely. I'll see how things go.

Next point to mention is that this torch is three section. The head unscrews easily, which provides the VERY useful mule mode feature, and there's an O ring where it should be. Nice. But I think they've blundered here, because whilst it takes a nice, safe 7+ full turns to unscrew the head, it only needs 3.5 turns for the middle section to go from light off to coming apart. It would be much more sensible if this was the other way around, i.e. 7 turns to come off at the middle, since this is the bit that will always be slightly loosened to start with (until you turn the torch on, of course). 3.5 turns needed to remove the head would be no problem since you can just keep it screwed down tight all the time. Matter of fact, you have to really, as at first I sometimes found that one handedly turning the light off would accidentally loosen the head at the same time.

As Vectrex notes, the on/off and mode changing twisty action is beautifully smooth with just the right amount of friction resistance, but a few times I've caught the two sections at least a full turn-and-a-half apart. I'd be a lot happier with a bigger safety margin than 3.5 turns.

Another potential weakness is the lanyard hole, which is the only way of attaching a split mini-keyring. You can see from the pic below that the placement of the hole leaves only about 1mm of tail ring to hold the keyring. Ok, I'm worrying before it's happened, but that sliver of aluminium can't hold out forever. I'd gladly add a couple more mm to the length of the body for a stronger fixing point.


What else? Well, tint is perhaps a little on the cool side, but I can only see this when compared alongside the neutral-to-warm tint of my 504b XM-L. It also has maybe a hint of magenta in it, which sounds like a contradiction; cool magenta? Well, that's what it looks like. But it's very slight, and like I say, only noticeable in comparison. On it's own it looks nice, at least to my eyes.

Vectrex mentions PWM on low, but the only way I can see it is if I splay my fingers and waggle my hand very quickly in the beam, then it gives a sort of multi-image outline effect. This sounds worse than it is; used normally I can't detect any flickering at all, though tbh I'm beginning to wonder if it's possible that I'm just not susceptible to PWM (or if my eyesight isn't good enough). I have at least a dozen budget light models with low modes and I can't detect the sort of seizure inducing PWM some BLF-ers describe on any of them. Strange. And lucky.

Overall, this is a very nice little flashlight. Couple of minor issues mentioned earlier, but I'm pleased with my purchase so far. Thanks for the heads up, Vectrex. I don't own any 10440 batteries to try, but in view of the PD03B's uncertaint track record in that department, maybe just as well. Though I'd love to see..




excellent, helpful and very thoughtful quick review -- the way i review torches too hehe, thanks so much. sounds like no major issues with the built quality. you can use silicone grease on the threads (it's sticky stuff!) to increase friction. my lumintop worm SS takes LESS than 3.0 turns (~2.85??) to come off (head byebye) but thanks to its built/construction it's nothing to be concerned about. see my sig ive got the Fenix LD01 from HKE on order; i dont think that its upper head half unscrews easily too. it's not meant to unscrew easily (and it's not meant to have an o-ring there either afaik) and it is called "sealed" by Fenix, so the Brinyte construction differs here.

please could you maybe add some description of the beam pattern? (beam profile, hotspot size, definition, corona, artifacts, symmetry, spill size, doughnut hole)

i will surely measure runtimes of the LD01 release 4.

Thanks kreisler. I'm afraid my reviewing style is very much the 'layman's overview' type. Yes, as soon as I get time I'll add a few more details, maybe photos if I can remember how to do it. Stay tuned though, as I may have to ask as I go along what some of those beam qualities actually are, e.g. artifacts (?) :~

Also, re runtimes, can these be done by eye? The only measuring/testing equipment I have are a photographic lightmeter and a DMM. I'm guessing that you just load a fresh battery, turn light on, and then time it until it's too dim to use? Or just until there's a noticeable reduction in output? DMM help at all? And is it ok to leave the light on high constantly, or should I turn it off for 10 minutes or so periodically to let it cool?

‘artifacts’ are distortions and deviations from the beautiful symmetry of perfect geometrical shape. if the corona looks defined starry (instead of diffuse or perfectly round defined hotspot) or if the beam pattern is one-sided irregular (asymmetric), then you’d call all those disturbing defined patterns ‘artifacts’.

Runtimes just by eye. When the light dims, it dims fast (typically within 6-8mins) so that it becomes apparent to exchange the cell. Lightmeters and DMM are helpful too but it is accurate enough to clock the time when you see that the light has already begun to dim considerably.

you should wrap the torch in a wet piece of cloth (flannel, washrag, washcloth) when running on high-mode (Eneloop). On 10400's you.. erh.. should buy some 10440's haha :D

Runtime on High-mode is short (as reported in this thread), so you could also hold it in your hand, firmly. On Eneloop torches in hands never get tooo hot to hold in hands. I even hold my Xeno E03 XML with 14500's in my bare hands for the duration of the 14500 cell's runtime (~40mins). You can also wet your bare hands, and THEN hold the torch.

thanks for contributions in this thread!!

Absolutely the least I can do. Comparing my tuppence worth to your reviews is like comparing a Maglite Solitaire to a Keygos KE5!

Seriously, thanks for getting back with the above info. Very useful stuff. I'll see what I can do later today after dark. Must remember to buy a pack of AAA's (don't have eneloops either )