Works very well. Used it often, magnet stayed in until I purposely removed it. If fact I just hot glued another one in after your post! Stays in even if I pull the flashlight straight off fast/hard. Tilting it off of a surface does remove the flashlight with much less force on the magnet plus your likely to do it that way since its easier.
If you really Never want the magnet to come off epoxy will ensure it with no worry.
As for the battery, the spring in the tail prevents any issue with the battery sticking inside to the magnet.
Please could you magnetic guys post some seller's links with the exact magnet model (material, dimension, price, properties) which are best in this case?
i am realizing that the typical Chin*se flashlight body material (alu, SS, titanium) is *not* magnetic. batteries (NimH, Alkaline, ..) are highly magnetic.
( i am testing the magneticity with the feet of my Gorillapod haha )
It must be neodymium. There are strength grades but I think (hope) even the lowest will hold. Larger twisty flashlights might weigh more but they would also fit a larger diameter stronger magnet. Grades are from n35 to n52 (low to high).
Ebay is cheap if you only need a couple low grade neo magnets. Hard to find 2.5mm thick on ebay, you could epoxy a 1mm & 1.5mm together if you want it flush or just go for 3mm.
I'm sure others must add magnets to their lights, no? It also gives you a fun way to store your lights.
<- Yorkshire terrier
Its just stuck on a hidden nail in the drywall. Its not very strong since there is paint & plaster over the nails but it holds.
For the Ultrafire 602C AAA its ~2.5mm thick for flush with the edge of the tail (below flush will be weaker). A 11mm diameter will fit (maybe 12max). If you want to keep the use of the two lanyard holes it needs ~2mm clearance so an 9mm diameter off center magnet will do it (or 7mm centered). I would worry a 7mm one might be too weak unless you go thicker or use a high grade but I haven't tried it. You could also get away with less clearance for a single lanyard hole like the Brinyte & most lights have.
I am using the first neodymium magnet I grabbed that fit. Rectangle 10mm x 5mm x 2.5mm thick, most likely high grade since its from a CD or Bluray drive. (Either from a LPC-815 or PHR-803T) ;)
The hollow part in the Brinyte PD03A is diameter 10.59 x height 3.17 mm according to my digital calipers.
So the my standard 8mm rare earth magnets (neodymium) from DX are a little too small.
The 10mm ones should do the trick. You could stack 3 or 4 of them to reach the needed height and epoxy them together. Or take these ones from the bay of E's.
Yes thanks guys, very useful info, I've been meaning to ask the magnet Q for a while. Found this lot at DX; should cover most sizes: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/magnets%20rare%20earth Three of the 10mm ones at the top of the page should be perfect for the Brynite
Halo, when you say 'hot glue' you mean a heated glue gun, something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOT-MELT-MINI-GLUE-GUN-2-GLUE-STICKS-/130473087092?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item1e60cd5074
EDIT:
Are the DX 'rare earth' magnets neodymium? Or is that a different type? Confusing.. http://s.dealextreme.com/search/magnets%20neodymium
2-component epoxy compound adhesives (for metal surfaces) are stronger than almost anything that you can apply with a hot glue gun. Yes normally rare earth means neodymium = very strong magnets. Those magnets have insane pulling force for their size. If have dismounted the neodym magnet from my UF H2B, because they are known for killing magnetic stripes on credit and bank cards.
Yep a hot glue gun like that one. You can also find them in most arts & craft stores. I only used hot glue because it was handy & I want to be sure its removable.
Most rare earth magnets will be neodymium. Unless you are looking for it you probably won't even run into the 2nd kind of rare earth magnet (SmCo).
Thx again. Yes, epoxy - or 'chemical metal' would be stronger, but I like the idea of having the magnet removable, just in case it proves to be a nuisance. I've not heard of this, but I wonder if it might damage the efficiency of my car's remote locking fob, for example. I always like to leave an 'undo' option when possible
Let's wait if the other people who ordered the light have the same impressions as I do. I don't want to praise the light into the sky, when I'm the only one who has received this level of quality. Remember that first impressions were made back in 2010, that is an eternity in budget light terms, there is a lot that could have been changed in the meantime. But I agree, that there are not enough full reviews out there on the Brinyte PD03A.
Interesting to note, the most famous German flashaholic/flashlight seller, the "Papst" (engl. the pope), carries the Brinyte ("Britney" how he calls her affectionately haha) as favorite keychain light, listen to his words from 03:00 on:
I am sure that the average production model of the Brinyte is brighter than the average production model of my reviewed Tank E09 .. but there's some good points to the latter: it's hell cheap on DD (with the DD discounting system), easy to fix/repair/improve, and it's new.
Hi guys,
I've had this light for about 2years. There are some issues with it that are worth noting. The light draws 1.8 amps oh high with nimh, so runtime is
about 20 minutes. Brightness levels with NiMh are the same as those of geniune ld01, so i'd estimate 80 lumens for high and 8 for low. Protected 10440 do not fit. I had to replace the spring with a new one made of a thinner wire to make them fit. With 10440 the light runs for 30-35 minutes (until protection shuts it down.) Even an instant before shutdown it is brighter with exhausted 10440 than with freshly charged NiMh. So you gain both in brightness and runtime using Li-ion batteries. By the way, protected 10440 fit genuine Fenix with no problem. At some moment the driver broke down, so I had to replace it. This was not caused by using 10440 as I started using them after the driver started to behave strangely (Well, it was almost ok except that sometimes it didn't turn on. At that point I was no longer afraid to burn it down with Li-ion batteries). The LED seems to be glued with an ordinary glue. Also, there should be an o-ring at the junction of the upper and lower part of the head, but it was missing.
I'm not sure about runtime of the light with 10440 as I started using them when the driver was not working well.
i think the biggest turn off of the light is its long and cryptic and suspicious name. i mean.. why didnt they go all along and called it Brinyte PDKWXQ-TTU0703POC-WWTF Q5?
The company name is cool ('brai-nait or bree-'nait or 'britt-ney ggg) .. but the product name isnt a product name but a frikkin UPC code!! :D
What if i had signed up for BFL with user name "PDKWXQ-TTU0703POC-WWTF" instead of "kreisler"?? Would i've been suspicious or what? :bigsmile:
post some seller's links with the exact magnet model (material, dimension, price, properties) which are best in this case?
Grades are from n35 to n52 (low to high).
<- Yorkshire terrier 
