What a beautiful beast. I’ve always like your style in lights. They are out of my budget, but they look worth every penny.
This is a beauty of a light. I definitely do miss the simplicity of the bruiser, and probably would still have it if it had a low mode. It was just too much light in most cases.
I probably can do the same kind of design for Big Bruiser, with a separate body from head, and spin the head for high low. Not having a low setting has always been a sort of draw back to the design.
Wayne
Here are a few more pics:
The tail cap has a threaded cap, this is because, most of the time, the button will not be used, and a wrist strap will be attached to the end, just in case the flashlight slips out of the hand, it does not go overboard. The light can be operated, on/off/low/high, by spinning the head. It can also be operated by the twisty on off tail cap, and if the end cap is removed from the tail cap, it can have momentary flash use, maybe for signalling codes to another ship or someone in the deep.
Wayne
The photo montage in your signature. There is a black light that looks like it might have the Illumination Machines LUM 5-90 reflector in it. Looks like it might hold two 26650 type cells. What is that light? Do you have a build thread on it?
That sure is a beauty, Wayne! Just how heavy is it in nickel-bronze with a set of cells in it?
I really like that in nickel bronze, it’s piece of properly functional art.
That is the ST90 Search & Rescue. Here is a link to the thread on this flashlight, here in this forum:
Presently, I only offer this flashlight as a custom hand made, as I ran out of stock of the CNC machined parts. This flashlight was so costly to produce them, I cannot afford another big run of them, but, I can make them one at a time.
See my web site and links to the web page for this flashlight. I also have a youtube channel, here’s a link to one of the slide shows I did for this flashlight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh_R0g0F0Ok . I need to go into my Youtube channel, they changed things around.
Wayne
Before I added the tail cap button and end cap plug, it was about 3.5 pounds. The heat sink is yet to be made. With batteries, this is going to be over 4 pounds easy. Bronze is very heavy.
Wayne
Side by side, nickel alumibronze next to alumibronze, when they are both polished, look almost exactly the same, appearance wise. Recently I have taken to polishing the metal, really puts the shine in and I also love the appearance. I love polished brass/bronze, just beautiful to look at. The Nickel alumibronze has a much slower rate of becoming tarnished, reacts far less with skin oils and sweat. It is what is normally used in propellers on ships, as well as nuts bolts, anything else exposed to sea water, as it really has great resistance to this harsh environment. This bronze is not my first choice of metals to machine, but, not as bad as titanium or stainless steel. Alumibronze has about 11% aluminum, 5% nickel, the remaining is copper with some iron. Tough stuff.
The added nickel makes this metal a better choice than aluminum bronze, resists the salt water and also barnacles and it does not react with other metals as readily.
Wayne
Thank you Elektrolumens. That ST90 Search & Rescue is friggin cool.
Adding clear coating/anodize would make these incredible.
Edit... I mean more incredible. If I could afford one right now, I'd buy it.
That said, I'd be concerned about getting it scratched up if I had it.
Wayne,
Another stunner! And it will double as a belaying pin if necessary. Happy to read that it’ll spend it’s life off the Maine Coast. Next time I’m on Mt. Desert Island at night I’ll keep a lookout for it.
I like how it looks like a brass telescope! Caution those who might pick yours up and put it to the eye esp the emitter end!
Brass cannot be anodized. You just have to polish it to make it shiny. Putting a coat of wax on it will also help. It gradually oxides little by little over time, especially if handled a lot.
A coat of clear would keep it shiny. But as the paint scratches, it begins to look pretty bad. The best way is to just leave it bare metal, and polish it if you want it to look nice.
This metal actually does not seem to scratch easily. Even when I put it in my lathe and cinch down the jaws as tight as possible, the surface of the metal shows no signs of such activity.
Although this flashlight is very beautiful all shined up, it is a working flashlight for harsh marine environments.
Wayne
shame to know it will be so close to me, but wont be able to hold it
A few more pics, of the front:
Wayne
Your a marvell Wayne. A lot of thought and effort has gone into the design and execution of this light. Another fantastic light. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Wayne, do you still sell the Firesword ?
It’s not on my web site store, but, I could make one manually. Send me an email if you’re interested.
Basically, this Brutus Maximus puts out same level of brightness of 3000 lumens that the FireSword-V does. But the LEDs are 3 XM-L2 LEDs instead of four MCE LEDs, and Brutus Maximus can be powered either from 3 26650 batteries or 3 18650 batteries instead of the 4 18650’s for the FireSword-V. Also, high/low settings on Brutus Maximus can be changed easily simply by spinning the head. I do make a less expensive version of Brutus Maximus from aluminum.
Wayne