I went ahead and changed the resistor to R018 and the driver works .
It steps down fast and starts to blink, but at least it works. I don’t know if I damaged something else when I shorted the reflector but I will try to find a higher value resistor and see how that works out.
Just the fact that I made it work again I consider a victory I am more of a solder two wires kind of guy.
hi, i am using the KX70 32mm “6V” Boost driver in a courui d1 with a xhp50.2, powering from some good keeppower protected batteries, and notice often that something shuts down the flashlight in middle of using it. it would require me to remove the battery to restart it. it seems like the batteries are going short or something in the driver is failing, have you observed this?
solRNY, protection circuits are an additional hurdle which reduces a cell's discharge performance. Your protected KeepPowers are more than likely low drain cells with standard discharge protection circuitries, causing additional output voltage sag. The equivalent series resistance in one of those protected batteries is equal to the internal resistance of its low drain cell (high, above 50-60mΩ) plus the resistance of the probably two 8205A MOSFETs (close to 15mΩ) which switch the cell's cathode. This is very high and completely inadequate for even remotely close to high drain applications.
A high drain cell's internal resistance is generally well below 30mΩ. Mooch, the vaper's community reviewer, concluded that low drain cells are only worth it at up to half of its rated maximum discharge current (or so) versus the 2800-3000mAh high drainers. It can be argued that the test's cutoff value is very high (3.2V) and I agree, but anyway it serves as an enlightening reference: Which High Capacity 18650 is the Best? -- Shootout Bench Test Results @ E-CigaretteForum
V1 posted on Thu, 08/10/2017 - 15:17; redundancy typo fixed.
No relevant information found for the driver. My observations:
Reverse polarity protected. As Jensen567 explained in this same thread some messages ago for the H1-A, this means the driver innards' ground plane is isolated from the host, which is heat transfer detrimental.
Amount of modes and spacing: 5-40-100%, with optional strobe and SOS. :THUMBS-UP:
Last used mode memory, 3 seconds. :THUMBS-UP:
Stock output is 2.2A, sense resistor :facepalm: 0.1Ω , 0.22V sense voltage. This is inefficient, a lot of power is lost here.
Height is listed as 8mm, spring excluded I believe.
It's 17mm, but wrong in every other aspect. An LD-29 beats it hands down.
I see the H2-C manages ≈2.5A in turbo at 12+V with ease and efficiency, at least as long as the input is 2S. How about stacking an R050 (or two R100s) in parallel with the stock ones? That would mean 3A for turbo, 2A after 60s stepdown. I'd just need a Sinkpad XHP70 6/12V MCPCB.
Most lights have the battery negative connected to the flashlight body, so if the thermal pad is not isolated, and the board is DTP, we need to worry about isolating the MCPCB from the flashlight body which can be a pain.
It can be alright if you use good isolated thermal pads (expensive), but won’t ever be as good as proper thermal paste or soldering. That’s why I don’t like running the XHP50 or XHP70 at 12V. Yes the problem of isolation can be solved, but there are very few benefits of running in 12V mode for flasglights so it makes it not worth it for me to worry about the isolation.
Ordered from LEDDNA once, the shipment took more than a couple months to arrive home.
By the way, ordered an H2-C, an XHP35 HI C2 3000K CRI85+ (according to datasheet), and a 4-pack of high drain Aspire 18350 1100mAh cells. For the ThorFire TA13, right. Gonna be a handsome aspherical thrower.
I am to mount an additional R100 on the sense resistor stack. This means 2.25A on turbo stepdown to 1.5A. How much effective throw is to be expected from it fellows?