Correct, also remember to get total output wattage below your available input wattage if using a wall wart / laptop supply.
Did you try this:
Dell Eps-470 PowerConnect Redundant 470w Poe Power Supply Uj688 for sale online | eBay?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT has the eps-470 for $10 plus $10 shipping. He does combine shipping and also accepts offers. I got two of them for $16+$15shipping= $31total for 2 units.
I saw it, the listing states that he only ships in the US. I might as well send him a message.
Edit: Unfortunately it doesn’t look like I can contact this seller via ebay.
If I use the contact form I get this message:
We’re sorry we couldn’t find an answer for you. Unfortunately, this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller’s listing.
A quite interesting boost module: New 1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Step-up Power Supply Module 8-60V TO 12-83V
Cheers ^:)
Something else though, i thought it was mentioned somewhat already:
I read here and there that when you put some current back into the device, like when you have a spinning motor or a charged battery and you turn the power supply device off, it may be damaged.
This is indeed why it is advised to charge batteries with a diode in series.
Or make sure you disconnect the load (motor or battery, perhaps even a capacitor) before you turn it off.
Thoughts?
I think this is true for most. But I believe the dps5015 can be used without this extra component.
In what Canadian shipping zone do you live? I wonder what it would cost for me to purchase them and ship them on to you? Or I could send the seller a message and ask if he will ship to a Canadian address if I or you place the order. Is it worth looking into, or are you not that interested?
Correct, the smaller units need the diode to protect from this behavior. The 3012 and 5015 on the other hand do not. I have charged batteries many times with my 3012 and says it can do this in the manual.
Okay, that’s good news.
Thanks.
Interesting for raw power output, 83V is much higher then you normally see on units like this.
Keep in mind that you need to treat even 50V like you would mains voltage. 50V IS enough to kill you, 83V most certainly is enough.
I highly doubt that it outputs a very stable voltage though but I would love to be proven wrong.
My 2 EPS-470's arrived just a bit ago. I hooked them up real quick. Not sure what to think about what I saw yet. I have to run. So here is all I know so far:
- The are pretty quiet (at least at the low .4 amp load I put on them). I don't know if I had a cord or PSU A/C jack issue with one of the units. It would loose it's connection intermittently. I will have to check that out tonight. It was pretty clear that the connection was breaking where the A/C cord fit into plug in the back of the unit. I couldn't get it to seat well and touching it cause it to totally disconnect. Probably foreign matter on the cord or plug. No time to check out right now.
- Both fluctuate output voltage from the high 47's to the mid 48's (Didn't get a lock on the exact range). Didn't' run them very long. So maybe the voltage would have stabilized.
- One outputs almost 1/2 volt less than the other.
- Connecting them in parallel including the "third" pin mentioned earlier does not make them equally share the load. One unit was outputting about twice the current of the other.
- When I first connected them in parallel, one of the units made a repetitive clicking sound for about a minute. I kind of wonder if it was the connection issue I mentioned in bullet one above, because it went away when I pulled the A/C plug for that unit. The lights and fans keep running when unplugged (while paralleled).
I'll see what I can find out tonight, but for now I recommend these units not be run parallel.
In the inside picture a couple pages back, I'm curious what the thing that looks like a jack (the black thin one, not the white 3 pronged one) on the right side of the fans is
ImA4Wheelr,
I think you are referring to the led indicators.
There are dual leds. One set on the front and one set on the back.
You’ll see when you find time to play with it. Please keep us posted.
^
That makes sense whopist. Thanks
What range does your DPS unit show the Voltage In fluctuating? I don't think it will be a problem because the output voltage from my 5015 stayed solid during the whole time I had it connected. In fact, when I was plugging and unplugging the EPS-470's (while parallel) nothing seemed to miss a beat.
I really like the form fact of these EPS-470's. I'm thinking I will put mine on legs so that it will be a shelf to set things on on the work bench. Less likely to pick up debris into the fans that way too.
Starting to play with the idea of connecting these in series to anodize TI. Need to see if the DC negative is grounded and float it on one unit if it is. I think you said it isn't grounded. 96v would take me up to the colors that after the yellows:
I just got mine in, hopefully have time to play with it next week.
I was curious though, have you tried measuring the voltage output directly at the units when under load or only with the DPS input voltage meter?
In my case the wires I use to get the power from the power supply to the DPS are not that thick (didn’t have anything better on hand that was long enough). They work fine but do cause a bit of voltage droop at higher power levels.
Luckily the DPS keeps the output smooth as silk even with the fluctuations.
Got it started anyway.
Really nice box . Did you get it feom a chinese seller ?
He posted the link earlier, it was from banggood IIRC.
I PMed the DPS designer and he confirmed what Texas_Ace had already told us, that the DPS board was capable of powering an additional 5V fan in parallel.
Is that your plan LightRider?
Can you explain where to connect the fan ?
Simply tap into the factory fan connection and wire your fan up to it. Obviously make sure polarity is correct.