Correct, I was referring to sales figures.
I stopped getting the S2+ and now favor the s21a in that platform, because it allows me to use either the 21700 or the 18650 cell without modifications or adapters.
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I see more dedomed 519a than domed ones
It arrived now! 
Simon is a legend! Absolutely hassle-free experience.
Is there a manual / forum post where I can learn more about how to navigate the firmware and set this light up?
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Impressive
The best manual you can find is the one on the product page.
In case of S2+:
That’s all.
Edit: OK, maybe not the best, but at least it’s official.
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The manual looks more complicated than it really is.
Start with light turned on. Quickly half-press the button lotsa-times, it’ll do low-med-high-low-med-high etc each time, for programming you technically need to do this 20 times, but I don’t count as it’s too fast and just keep mashing until it stops changing mode. It’ll pause then do a flickering (“buzz-flash”). Tap to enter the mode options.
The light will flash one time then “buzz-flash”, then twice and buzz-flash, then three times etc. each number represents a modegroup on the image Qubeet posted. For example, if you wanted mode group 5, you’d wait for it to flash 5 times then while it’s doing the “buzz flash” turn it off.
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Which stripped lens would you choose for cycling: 15, 25, or 45 degrees?
I’m preparing to buy a second S2+, this time with a 4500K emitter. Or should I go with 5000–5700K and de-dome it instead? It’ll most likely be blue, as that’s my daughter’s favorite color.
As for myself, I’m leaning toward the brass option now that it’s back in stock. My only concern is that it comes with a white, porous rubber button, which might get dirty when working on the car. For that reason, I might get black or gray as they come with the black button, though I haven’t decided yet.
@gravelmonkey @Qubeet Thanks for the instructions on how to use the different modes!
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I’ve not cycled in years but when I did I used actual bike lights.
De-domed 5700K looks closer to 4000K then 4500K to me and it has a definite pink-shift, lots of people like this but it’s not universally popular. If you’re considering a de-dome Convoy’s a good way to see if you like it.
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For a biking light efficiency and brightness is more important than color rendering, so I would not opt for a 519A, or any other high CRI LED really.
I think I’d either use a XHP50.3 HI R70, or ask Simon for a SFT-70 5000K in the S2+, then use the 5050 striped TIRs.
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Hope my instructions made sense!
With regards to the striped TIR lens, the price is very reasonable if you wanted to get two or all 3 and see for yourself, they are fairly straightforward to swap, you’d have to be quite careless or very unlucky to damage the dome of the LED.
The Nichia 519a is a favourite here as it’s a good all-rounder. The cherry on the cake is for the most nerdy of us (myself included) to be able to easily de-dome and make the tint slightly pinker. You seem to have got that the CCT shift towards more warmer light, means you should start at at a higher colour temperature to start with.
Alternatively, as a suggestion, you may want to try a different LED to see why the 519a is a good all-rounder. The XHP50.3 Hi that ebastler siggests isn’t a bad suggestion. Or perhaps a 5000K SFT-40? Note these are both physically bigger than the 519a (5050 Vs 3535).
With regards to bike attachments, unless you need left/right adjustment, I can reccomend the twofish lockblock mounts (I’ve quite a few, a mix of originals and clones), which I find are good for mounting smallish lights to the bars.
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I used a C8 on my helmet and a variety of lights on the handlebars when I was a bike commuter. The C8 worked great up there. I had it aimed down most of the time but would use it to get attention from people who didn’t see me because they weren’t looking for me.
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