Using a DMM, I just checked the current on 2 different C8+ variations; and I’m thinking the numbers are low. However, please correct me if I’m wrong and/or perhaps I need a better DMM with thicker cables, etc.
Anyway, the first is a Osram KW CSLNM1 TG (6000 or 6500K; I forgot which) and my reading hovers around 3A’ish. (In 100% mode)
The second one, which arrived yesterday, is the SFT40 8A BUCK Driver (6500K); it read at approx 4.5A’ish. (In 100% mode)
Shouldn’t these numbers be more like 4.5-5A & 8A? (Approx, give or take)
Thank you for your assistance. And thanks again for those who helped me decide on this version. BRIGHT!
If you’re using a conventional meter on, say, its 10A-20A pass-through current setting, that extra resistance in the meter will be enough to kill any accurate readings.
If you got a clampmeter like the venerable Uni-T, you’ll have more accurate readings.
Don’t forget that it’s not a purely resistive load, like a resistor across a 4.2V source. At max power, it’s more like a 3.6V LED plus 0.2V pass-element across that 4.2V cell, so maybe 0.4V total push across a teeny resistance. That 0.1V drop for the meter’s shunt makes a relatively huge difference.
Thank you Lightbringer. What Uni-T model would you recommend…“on the cheap?” There seems to be many different versions. A couple only had 3 plug ports; oHms & V, if I recall. No COM port??
There’s a 25%+10% discount on this $40 model. I have it and it does measure DC current.
KAIWEETS HT206D Digital Clamp Meter T-RMS 6000 Counts, Multimeter Voltage Tester Auto-ranging, Measures Current Voltage Temperature Capacitance Resistance Diodes Continuity Duty-Cycle (AC/DC Current) Amazon.com
Here’s a similarly priced Uni-T
UNI-T UT203+ Digital Clamp Meter AC/DC Current Auto Range True RMS Max/Min Backlight Multimeter Amazon.com
Thank you; much appreciated. No hurry; just let me know when you find it. If you’re confident it provides more accurate (in this case, “accurate” meaning higher current) readings I’ll try and get one… staying within my budget, of course.
Thank you for the recommendations; I put one in my Amazon cart… awaiting checkout. But first, I just want to confirm how exactly to use the clamp for these simple current checks on flashlights. (I’ve never used a clamp meter before) How I used the DMM was to touch the positive lead tip to the metal threads at/near the flashlight end and attach the negative lead tip to the bottom (negative) end of the exposed battery; while, of course, the jacks were inserted in COM & 10A ports.
Please explain how to use the clamp meter to get the currents of my flashlights; I’m very curious to see how it will reflect a more accurate (higher) reading.
Thank you for your time and effort on assisting me.
Good afternoon. I just want to confirm how exactly to use the clamp for these simple current checks on flashlights. (I’ve never used a clamp meter before) How I used the DMM was to touch the positive lead tip to the metal threads at/near the flashlight end and attach the negative lead tip to the bottom (negative) end of the exposed battery; while, of course, the jacks were inserted in COM & 10A ports.
Please explain how to use the clamp meter to get the currents of my flashlights; I’m very curious to see how it will reflect a more accurate (higher) reading.
Thank you for your time and effort on assisting me.
You’ll do the same thing, but with a length of wire. This wire should go through the “loop” of the clamp meter. Set the meter to 2A or 20A range, then push one of the buttons to switch from AC to DC, then push “zero” to zero out the reading. Then it’s ready to give you a current reading.
Thank you; I have MUCH to learn. My Dad’s a retired electrician… perhaps I should have paid more attention instead of playing “ball” (basketball & football) down at the local park. But I digress. I actually have great memories, at least.
Any certain type of wire or cable better? And then simply put one touching the bottom of the battery and the other grounded…and then clamp around the wire? Thanks again!
Use a typical stranded copper wire with a length sufficient to take the measurement without everything moving around awkwardly during the process. The wire gauge, the diameter of the wire, should be heavy enough to handle the current without adding much resistance. 18 or 20 AWG should be fine. Doesn’t matter too much at these modest currents and with such short lengths of wire.
As for usage, I’ve described the process to the greatest extent that I care to, so I’d recommend you use a search engine for a how-to guide, and maybe watch a video, and also do be sure to read the manual to the meter.
