It makes sense, by sanding it with fine sand paper you will reduce the pores (theoretically) and improve the thermal transfer. The FUJIK glue is not epoxy, its silicone.
Sorry, me generalizing, I still feel its better used for potting drivers than fitting stars myself, once clamped and used, the paste sets pretty solid when you come to change a star, it certainly wouldn’t fall off.
So, the one you use, is grease like? Not adhesive?
Exactly, it even describes itself as a grease and NOT an adhesive.
Cheers!
I think I will not order the Fujik, and get some Artic Silver!
I just received a couple of 17mm 8*7135 NANJG boards, and I just coldn’t wait!!
This was what I did:
Removed the old 20mm board from my M10, removed/desoldered all components from it and soldered 2 wires(+ and -) from this board to the new 2.8A (2 groups) board, using it as a 20mm contact board, I had to remove the spring from the new board. The 2 wires I used are a little bit too thick and makes the set to fit in the pill with no available room , but I prefer these to the ones that were on the old board that were very thin.
The problem is that I cant stack any more 7135’s when I receive them because there is no room in the pill. But will sort that out when the time comes.
Its a lot better, its brighter, has memory, and with the 2 groups I can have the blinkies if I need it, and if I dont I never even see the damm thing!!
Its pulling exactly 2.8A on high!
IMHO this 2 group driver is a lot nicer than the old one that you have to solder the stars! You have the best from both worlds!
Do away with the 20mm board (i save them complete as they can be handy in other budget lights). Ease the inner diameter of the brass ring till the 8*7135 board is a snug fit (you may have to sand the edges of the driver where it was in the assembly line), screw the brass ring back into the pill, push the emitter wires through, then press the board back into the ring and solder the negative ring to the brass ring. You’ve enough room in there to stack 6 chips or more, one on top of the other (dont do this).
Otherwise, nice mod, I too like the two group board.
Nice shots Dale, I have a new monster light in the pipeline, just need to finish up taking picture’s then its getting a new driver. Without saying too much, the switch needs upgrading so it can take at least 8 amp….
I just bought a C8, got any ideas?? LOL
Yes, its a terrible light, you won’t like it….send it to me, I’ll save you the issue of having to put cells in.
The problem with c8’s is the pills are just not quite deep.enough for the driver. What you can do is get a 3a nanjg, stack a couple of 380ma chips, your up at 3.7a, led flavour of choice and the jobs done.
I favour the c8 upgrade,
I had hoped you felt generous… PM me your address… We can sort it out…. :bigsmile:
- 2 I have one on the way from this seller also.
Bacon n eggs
Can you edit your last comment and move your statement outside of the quote please, it was hard to find it hidden there! Thanx
Now regarding what you said, since I received my M10 that I find the beam very fuzzy, the hotspot is there but either that fuzzyness is normal spill or something is wrong, I took it apart several times, replaced the driver and its exactly the same but more bright. I think that something is wrong with this reflector, i tried replacing the reflector with my C8’s and it fits ok and the beam is better, similar to C8’s beam.
I am disapoited with this light’s beam. Its bright no doubt about it, its pulling 2.8A and soon will be 3.5A, I will stack 2 more 7136 chips, but the beam is not clean enough, I like a nice and not fuzzy, artefact free beam!
It’s strange because the two I’ve built had perfect beams, the hot spot just gets really really intense and seems to increase in size as the driver ramps to 3.7a, I see a similar effect on an xm-l2 c8 upgrade build using the same driver, in this case though, it pulls 3.3a (i guess this is down to differences between xm-l and xm-l2). The thing I really like about the m10, ironically, is that the emitter centering device is so accurate, have you tried shaving a touch off the device? Incase its protruding a little too much into the reflector?
Gords - cool! You are seeing the amp drop on XM-L2's that I'm seeing as well - it's been driving me nuts! Weird about the M10 beam though - I'd carefully inspect the emitter, if anything is noticeable in/under the silicone. Could just be a flaky emitter, maybe noticeable, maybe not.
Yeah it bugged me tom, in the end I just shrugged my shoulders and figured the poor tortured Samsung would get an easier ride 
Mrs gords has taken a shine to it though, she likes the ramping for a bedside light, and the c8 upgrade seems smaller than it actually is, I do suggest you build one.
Sorry about that, thats what I get for posting with my phone….
hey i got a 105c driver and added 3 chips to it (should make it 4.54 amp?) and changed the t6 my m10 came with to an xm l2 u2.
im getting half the life from my 5000mah 26650 battery 