Both seem dead. Neither work with XP-L HI. They were new/untested prior to this test. Not sure if either had E-switch firmware but I doubt it.
Ah! Yikes! Sorry. I haven’t tried it, and I wouldn’t think an LED could kill a driver like that.
Hoop: Marc E:Hoop, do your nanjg drivers still work?
Both seem dead. Neither work with XP-L HI. They were new/untested prior to this test. Not sure if either had E-switch firmware but I doubt it.
Ah! Yikes! Sorry. I haven’t tried it, and I wouldn’t think an LED could kill a driver like that.
I didn’t either, and have a 2mm on the way to use with a 7135 based driver.
Hoop. Djozz, given your unfortunate shared experience i thought it prudent to start a new topic:
From another thread: My mini-GT driver seems to have lost the 7135 part of the ramping after I tried the 2mm2 White Flat (it is still gone with the new led, a dedomed XP-G2). It seems to make little sense if the White Flat with its low voltage was the cause of the damage, but after what you noticed with the NANJG driver I tought it’d be relevant to mention here. Hoop, do your nanjg drivers still work? Both seem dead. Neither work with XP-L HI. They were new/untested prior to this test. N…
Hope you don’t mind?
He should just use one of these. Is it really $10 stopping it or is there an issue with driver size and the D1S. He is hopefully redesigingim it a bit for a 21700 anyway.
He should just use one of these. Is it really $10 stopping it or is there an issue with driver size and the D1S. He is hopefully redesigingim it a bit for a 21700 anyway.
Ya, just design a whole new light. At least he knows what the people want. A 21700 Oslon compact super thrower. :+1:
Thank you Hank for an update. It’s sad to learn you can’t do it, but I like your openness.
I suggest that you look at Texas Commander driver. It’s in a beta state. And may not deliver the current that you need. But using Led4Power trick of putting the FET on MCPCB should solve the issue and make it easily handle 5A, probably 8A for 2mm² variant as well. You would still have to put the work of taking it out of beta and into production…but it seems you’re more than capable of doing so.
polarweis: Jerommel:Hmm… The D1S is begging for an LED like the White Flat 1mm², and it would definitely sell.
But the White Flat 1mm² is begging for a current regulated driver, which is not (yet) available for Emisar.
But the trend in LED land is low Vf, so it’s time for Emisar to get a current regulated driver available.
It shouldn’t be that much more expensive than the DD driver i.m.o.
And it will open the door to more choice in emitters, like Nichia 219B V1 for the quads, without risking their lives.
The electrical path can be optimized as far as you wish, and you can use the highest drain cells.
Longer run times in the highest modes without immediately losing output.Come on Hank, get some proper drivers for your sweet little lights.
I might even buy one !which driver should i use with this led? im thinking about putting is in a c8+ or maybe L2.
It depends on what you want from the driver. If you want the best, most efficient driver, get a L4P driver tuned to the proper current. If you just want it to be “regulated” and have a decent UI, you should get a driver that uses AMC7135 chips for power, PWM for lower modes, and Anduril firmware.
It has to be an e-switch driver for the Emisars.
I think Lexel may have something available.
I’m still waiting for led4power’s e-switch version of his FET CC driver…
But iirc Emisar uses 20mm drivers?
Either way, i’m guessing there are a few people on BLF who would be more than happy to come up with a suitable driver and PCB layout, if Hank can’t find a solution.
Yep, the e-switch is the issue for those drivers. If the driver designers didn't take into account parasitic drain, an e-switch may never work on that driver design.
Again, our ramping UI's should work fine with a 7135 bank + 1, or even without the +1. I got NarsilM working on a FET only driver because the 7135's were constantly getting blown - yes, lots of amps for 16 XHP50's...
Interested. Any idea of the #K? I like NW in the 4000K to 5000K range.
I'll take one!
i`ll take one !
After some more test, we decide not to provide the D1S+ due to the issues below:
But we will still offer this LED on the Noctigon MCPCB.
Regards,
Hank
Hank , whats the link to this LED / mcpcb please
Type in LED4POWER. Think they are on their home page.
Hank Wang:After some more test, we decide not to provide the D1S+ due to the issues below:
But we will still offer this LED on the Noctigon MCPCB.
Regards,
HankHank , whats the link to this LED / mcpcb please
Here is the code, we have also made some gasket for this particular LED
10fp: Hank Wang:After some more test, we decide not to provide the D1S+ due to the issues below:
But we will still offer this LED on the Noctigon MCPCB.
Regards,
HankHank , whats the link to this LED / mcpcb please
Here is the code, we have also made some gasket for this particular LED
How to order? it’s not on intl-outdoor.com
Hank where is the CODE ?? i want to order one can`t see it on your site
Hank where is the CODE ?? i want to order one can`t see it on your site
I do not mean the discount code, but the
label code on the package, CSLNM1.TG LED in stock now.
Nice, I think people will be very interested in the gasket when buying this led. Will they be sold separately as well?
10fp:Hank where is the CODE ?? i want to order one can`t see it on your site
I do not mean the discount code, but the
label code on the package, CSLNM1.TG LED in stock now.
Are you planning to sell a version with a warmer color, some 5000K?
Hank can you make gasket for 7mm and 9mm hole reflector also? This is the two most common hole size.