Affected by the Chinese New Year, the oxidation plant has been suspended, which will be delayed for some time.
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Thanks for the soothing music. Comparison was great too 
. I’m surprised FT03 with SST40 holds it’s own against L21A with CULPM1 even up 550m.
I appreciate it, thank you.
Finding music is the worst part, took me well over an hour and then ended up using some I already had.
The FT03 is certainly great value
Really nicely done 
Thinking about it, I guess it’s due to the lumen advantage? I thought CULPM1 would’ve made more than 1300 lemons at 8A.
Funtastic, I like a lot your video and where you live.
Thank you Funtastic, great video and very nice shots.
I was really looking forward to this L21A with CULPM1.
Just received mine, but I was very disappointed with the beam. I opened up the light to see the horror below.
The reflector is leaning on a not fully screwed in and totally stripped screw instead of on the gasket.
Ordered this light because I for once didn’t have to mod a light and it seemed a durable light. But with QC like this…
I would guess the clamping force is from reflector/lens/bezel and that “screw” is only there to stop the MCPCB from spinning when screwing on the bezel. I’m sure someone who has one will be along to confirm.
Maybe, but I think I saw a picture of someone with two screws.
Bigger problem is that the reflector can’t reach the gasket because it hits the screw.
Took the screw out and it looks strange (stripped and tapered). Does someone know the correct size of the screws?
The centering gasket on my L21A culpm1.tg was straight up too big and the beam was very unfocused. Anyone else have this issue? The screws seemed to keep the led off center. I had to loosen and tighten the screws and managed to centre it after a few tries.
My S21B CULPM1 has a bit of a “petal” when looking at the beam. 
My s21a also has a bit of a petal beam, but it’s a cslpm1. Doesn’t bother me much but I can see how it would others.
My S21B XHP50.2 just arrived.
S21A SST40, 5000K, 1700 lumen
S21B XHP50.2, 4000k, 2300 lumen
does the 8A buck driver use an NTC to control the temp? I’d like to remove it if possible. I wish the L21A had ramping of some sort as Turbo only lasts 3 minutes then back to 700 lumens.
Careful, the mcpcb needs the screws as the reflector doesn’t provide enough force on the mcpcb, it sits on a shelf. There’s been QC issues since Covid. Had a whole bulk order of C8+ units with dusty reflectors.
People need to stop complaining about the beam for these Osram leds as it’s normal across every brand. The Convoy lights have it, Noctigon K1, Sofirn SF47T etc all have the petal beam on a white wall. These leds are for long range use, can you notice at 200-500m away, no.
The centering ring can’t be any different as any force on the led could cause it to come off. These are quite small, that’s why it can’t use the snug fitting square centering rings.
Guys, i need your help to determine what resistor to order for purpose of lowering max output.
Driver is 17mm 5A 12group and i would need 4A and 3A (have 3ea).
I meassured resistor dimenssions 3.35x2.65mm roughly and written R010 which gives 5000mA now.
The story behind is that i’ve got colored S2+ Osrams and green is running great but yellow-orange and especially blue Osram is going to fry. My idea was to lower amps on blue to 3A and on amber to 4A instead of 5A originally.
If you stack two R025 in parallel that should give you 4A.
The closest you’ll get to 3A with a single resistor value is probably stacking two R033s (for 3.0303A), or an R025 and an R050 to get 3A on the dot.
Many thx oweban!
No probs - for reference, I use this:
R010 is 0.01 for the first value, then amps is 5, then hit Calculate - then remove the current and Power, and adjust the resistance value to the R-value you want 
write them all down and add up.