I realized after typing the information below that you planned to use a magnet along with the Metal Button.
The below isn’t compatible with the magnet(without modification) because the Metal Button will stick out slightly past the tailcap.
In order for it to work you’d need to place something underneath the magnet before gluing it in so the magnet sticks out further than the button.
For your Silicone Button S2+ and your S21A you can order this kit but only use the Metal Button and the Clear Plastic adapter.
The Metal Button is smaller than the Silicone Rubber Button so the adapter is necessary.
For non lighted switch, you can simply use the original non-illuminated switch that came with the lights.
(Stainless steel button + light switch) kit for replacing silicone buttons,suitable for (gray and black S2+) / C8 /C8+/S21A
For your S21B order this kit:
(Metal button + adapter + 20mm light switch) kit for for M21A M21B M21C M26C L21A S12 S16 S21B
It makes the light bigger, adds weight, adds cost, adds complexity, takes up tons of valuable driver real estate, moves the center of gravity further from the center; making the headlight less balanced, less manageable, less comfortable to wear, and is a major path for dust and water ingress on a headlamp that already suffers from a reputation of poor waterproofing.
Worse, the way the usb-c port is fitted opens a big hole and a direct path from the port and the head to the battery tube, allowing any water that enters from anywhere on the head to flow directly into the battery tube, landing right on top of the positive terminal. Probably the last place you want water to end up on a 21700 light strapped to your head
Hi @Simon_Mao, hope you are fine!
Another question for you
Your 17mm driver (buck and not) and 22 mm driver support light switch or I have to add bleeder resistors?
Thank you
I managed to short a battery in a Armytek Wizard by putting it upside down in the flashlight and by slightly unscrewing the tailcap for safe storage which opened the current flow through the charging circuit (unscrew tailcap for charging)…
The Astrolux MF01 Mini didn’t survive being survived for a couple of seconds under 2 inch deep water. And the charging port cover would pop out by itself after prolonged turbo usage.
Couldn’t agree more. What you said is pretty much how I feel about all lights with integrated charging built into the light. Especially if they use a rubber flap. A flap or built-in charging has to be really well designed for me to consider it, and I rarely use it on the lights that have it. I think an ultralight charger like the Nitecore LC10, Olight UC charger, or Xtar PB2S are a far better solution for charging on the go. Or if the light must have charging built in, using 18650/21700s with usb-c ports built into the battery are great. Many also work as battery banks, and can be used to add integrated charging to many lights (including many convoys) without any of the sacrifices you mention.
There are a few exceptions, and I recognize many non-enthusiasts appreciate the feature (but also, I think, don’t consider the downsides), edit: and also many enthusiasts of course, but generally integrated charging is a con for me at least
I mostly don’t like it, but if you have a light that has integrated charging and you really wish it didn’t, you could consider filling the charging port with epoxy.
Thank you very much! What I don’t like when I add the magnet to the rubber button is that the switch is a bit too recessed. The metal switch in my S2+ with the magnet is much easier to click (and has a deep enough travel to not light up by itslef). I really like it.
Maybe there’s a way of raising the button under the tactile silicone? Maybe one or two layers of cotton fabric would add a bit of height while keeping the rubber dome flexible.
Given the low dedome loss for the 519A, the dedomed 519A will be comparable to the 719A in output; in fact, if one compares emitters with the same dedomed CCT, I would not be surprised if the dedomed 519A is still higher, despite being 9080 instead of the 719A’s 9050. Given the difference in R9, it is pretty clear that the 719A has lower efficiency.
Lower efficiency, lower CRI, weird Vf…I don’t see the appeal of the 719A at all.
The reality is that the majority of consumers want flashlights with internal charging, and it makes financial sense for manufacturers to follow their customers needs.
Look at the graph again–it displays the outputs of both emitters at the same power, for a large range of power values, 0 to 30W. The 719A’s output falls off faster than the 519A at extreme currents–the power handling is actually worse!
And high CRI emitters are not supposed to be driven at high power. The test indicates a sharp falloff in CRI (with a growing blue spike) at higher currents.
Yep, I agree with @Jeffgoldblum completely.
By the way, I loved you in The Fly (1986).
…
Actually, I haven’t seen a whole lot of Jeff Goldblum movies, but I have watched a massive amount of late night talk shows, and Goldblum has been a regular guest on the late night talk shows that I like (Letterman, Conan, Ferguson, Colbert, Fallon, etc.)
Goldblum is the perfect late night talk show guest.
