Prints still haven’t been working, have got one of the other guys here on it who knows more than I do 
Why don’t you just do it without the prints and put a few layers of electrical tape in the boot? that’s what i do, easy to fine tune and i’m guessing it makes the switch less vulnerable to overheating with a shorter thermal path to the pcb. (which is an issue at high currents in my experience, dead short 30q melts the plastic)
Probably, but I’ve got a 3D printer at work, so I might as well get use out of it 
It is still available for sale, and it should fit, looks like the head is the same size.
Just checked on his store site, both showing 44.5 head diameter.
So I am going to order the M21A with the forward clicky. A customer wants a tactical light and I figured I’ll fit a LD-4 driver and 3V XHP50.2 @ 10A. Mode memory off, high to low mode sequence.
It will keep me busy while I wait for the reverse clicky model.
May someone briefly explain how do the newer ∅17/22mm 8A linear drivers work? I know there is an explanatory table but, in all honesty, I do not know what to 
think of it. Ordered a couple ∅22m units already, still on the way they are. I now need ∅17mm units and since I can easily do sense resistor mods, I am wondering if I should try the newest temperature protected units instead. Isn't 55°C a bit low threshold? I mean, if the temperature probe is at the board that value will be reached fast and the actual pill/host temperature will still be somewhat lower…
Cheers ^:)
Fri, 05/03/2019 - 02:02
I just got my order for an S2+ and some TIR lenses. I’m using them with an XM-L2, is a gasket needed or is it safe to use them right over the LED?
I just put it straight over the LED. It doesn’t seem to hurt anything.
In my experience TIR lenses work nicely without gaskets, Capital. Emitter centering shouldn't be a problem but if you worry about use a proper gasket and/or apply some thermal glue around the MCPCB.
:-)
I can never get my TIRs to work right 
I think I need an exploded view; is it just TIR then pill?
Depends.
I have XP-L HI S2+, and I kept the LED spacer and the phosphorescent gasket in place. That gasket doesn’t look necessary, but without the LED spacer the LED is not pressed to the heatsink.
Depends on the size of the hole. If it’s made for a 5050, then an XM-L would fit fine and be self-centered. Use a 3535 like an XP-L, and you’d want to center it somehow, else it might be slightly off-center.
Also, sometimes raising the lens a coupla mm above the LED can improve the focus. Try with and without if you’re picky.
Most cases, though, the lens plopped right atop the LED will be fine, especially wider angles.
This is as far as I've gone with TIR lenses. In an S2+ clone there was no need to use spacer (?) or whatever, after all the TIR's height matches the reflector's height.
No idea what you mean with this. Any link or photograph? If you mean the o-ring above the reflector flat glass lens, this is something I do not remove as it shields the TIR.
:-)
Exactly, the little ring between the glass and the lamp’s body, which glows green after you turn off the light.
I had taken a look there but thanks anyway g_damian. I do not yet have my drivers but since a colleague is asking me for a custom build, I decided it would be best to give him an idea of how that newer driver works. Deciding between it and the newest 5A 4 modes one, the current thing is not a problem as I can tune it replacing the sense resistor.
By the way, and big by the way. I just finished a custom green S2+ build with an LD-25 from FastTech, which was shipped to me on March 21st. I have already tested everything I am able to, but the current setting thing does not work. Even tried tapping the positive, but no change. Did LDCH changed the firmware and removed the current adjustment thing? If so, pretty bad. Now I will have to mess with the current sense resistor because I need to lower the maximum current, as it is going to be a gift to my nephew. And this doesn't solves the mode spacing anyway. 
:-)
Fri, 05/03/2019 - 12:26
The 7135x8 drivers have arrived just now.
Preinstalled wires … kind attention
… actually, these are on the Ali pictures as well, but I forget it “long” ago 
Great information, thanks guys. I ask because I had a bad experience with a TIR on an AAA light. It lasted only a few seconds running on high before the dome popped off and it went bright blue.
Maybe the heat will be very large, I am not very suggestive. I will ask the manufacturer about this. I have a sample of the XHP35 driver for L6, which can output 2A current.