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I’d be cautious with this. Maybe I had a low quality braided wick (but I used several types), but after a time all them crumbled. IMO the braid can work longer only if the spring movement is little. If the spring uses its full range of movement it’s likely to fall apart.

Good to know! Thanks :slight_smile:

20mm

Simon,
Any chance for an adapter ring 17 -> 20mm for that fantastic new S21A? Will it be an option for the host, just like you did with the S11?

For those of you struggling with spring bypasses, take good advice: coil the wire. First I coil wire around some sort of straight stiff wire (a stretched clip, for example), then I stretch it to a light stepping so it fits with enough spare room inside the spring, as it will need to fully coil inside. After this I cut the required lenght, which is about the spring height plus a little bit more for an upper part crease and a tiny bit below at the feet. Strip the ends, fold the feet a little bit for proper landing and insert inside the spring. It can be easier from below if you unsolder the spring, allowing you to fold and solder the cap before hot air soldering the assembly over the board.

My spring bypasses last for ages.

Yes, the folded wire in the middle atop the spring is an annoyance. Why is that there? I can't see a good reason for, honestly. It should be a nice donut hole. :-|

Cheers

I never did it, but others who have said that braids tend to fail over time. Whether they fray and leave thin Cu “hairs” floating around the battery tube, or flex too much and ultimately break, I don’t recall, just that general consensus seemed to be “no”.

I never did it, but others who have said that braids tend to fail over time. Whether they fray and leave thin Cu “hairs” floating around the battery tube, or flex too much and ultimately break, I don’t recall, just that general consensus seemed to be “no”.

I rarely bypassed springs anyway, but when I did, I “mushroomed” the top end. Ie, untwist the strands so they’re straight/parallel, and bend them radially outward.

Use enough solder to make a nice flat blob across it.

You know what’s even better than phosphor bronze springs?

Beryllium Copper C17200. :slight_smile:

Has 22% IACS, vs 5-8% IACS for steel, and has mechanical properties extremely close to steel.

yes,friend,
the adapter is in production

I read in this topic the S11 is getting a reverse clicky switch, is that correct?

I received one yesterday. Has forward type…

Apparently the next version will be reverse.

I could appreciate if the switch would be available to buy. FastTech is practically sitting on my order. It shows currently Packaging though :slight_smile:

My fasttech package with the Omten 1217 arrived at my work today :smiley: probably this time tomorrow before I’m able to swap it and test though.

Simon, any plans to do lighted tailcaps ? it looks cooler :smiley:

I really hope Simon is NOT going to use reverse clickies in the M21A and S11 or at least that he still offers the choice between forward and reverse clickies.

The reason is simple: There is no reverse clicky available that is as big and high-current-sustainable as the forward clicky. Usually, they tend to sustain not much more than 3A.

Heh, I was too fast. They shipped my switches about 15 minutes ago :+1:

For those of you looking for switches my store to go is Kaidomain, pleeenty of types and models and nicely priced.

Agreed, I love KD too. Real variety of choices. If only they could place better descriptions…