Do you know what is the driver with which come S21B XHP50.3 Hi. From listing it seems to be 3A?
I think to buy 5A version of 6V driver. It will be much safer for LED to not overburn.
A 10511 Carclo optic (frosted narrow spot) and DC-fix under the lens for the triple. And an orange peal reflector and DC-fix for the single.
I didn’t try the other triple Carclo optics, like the:
- 10508 frosted medium spot
- 10509 frosted wide spot
Perhaps those wouldn’t need DC-fix to improve the beam.
1 Thank
I find that the 10508 does a much, much better job smoothing the beam, and expect that DC-fix would not be necessary.
On a separate note, it would be interesting if Simon created a line of S2-sized triples that use the standard Carclo triple optics. Essentially a more compact, 18650-based version of the S21D. Another way to think about it is a better version of the Lumintop FW3A series, after they cheaped out on the firmware and quality control. But I don’t know if this would cannibalize sales from the normal S2+ single-emitter series. Maybe just make a triple-emitter pill that is compatible with the current S2+? This combined with Optisolis/SunLike could make for some very usable ultra-high CRI lights, without resorting to mules.
I like the Carclo optics a lot more than most other optics on the market, the tint-over-angle profile is much more customizable and frankly just better, especially with the 10507 and 10508 for domed emitters, and 10511 for domeless. These optics combine a traditional TIR with a small convex lens in the center, which makes the hotspot less green and the spill less purple. Some optics like the Wurkkos TS25 are very prone to making the beam green. Happens even a bit with the floody S21D optic.
2 Thanks
it’s 6V 3A by default
@Simon_Mao Did you get to make progress towards 14500 spacers / flat-to-button-top converters?
Those would be hugely helpful as half my 14500 lights only take button tops, while my favorite lights only take flat-tops.
In case this info may help: Vapcell H10/F12 button tops are a little too long for some lights, like the Wurkkos TS10, so the spacer should be a little less thick than the difference between a H10 flat-top and H10 button-top.
Maybe it’s too long. I forgot about it. I’m very sorry.
I would place an order right now and have the manufacturer produce some.
4 Thanks
Oh, wonderful, thank you so much!
Hi!
I’m looking for a flash light for my 3 years old nephew. He doesn’t like the darkness.
How do you seen a convoy T2 with an orange peel reflector along with a Nichia 219C? I know my nephew only are going to play with it, but I want a flash light with AA batteries and no get a lot of temperature at the outside.
Thanks
1 Thank
Go for a 519A emitter in your CCT of preference.
My 3yo son uses my modded Jaxman E3 (Convoy T3 driver and Osram NM1 emitter) almost daily and loves it.
1 Thank
Great! I’m going to choose this one then. Thanks!
1 Thank
The T2 flashlight is a good choice. I recommend a color temperature of 3000 K to 4000 K, so it won’t irritate his eyes.
4 Thanks
Great! I was thinking in 4000 or 5000 k, then I’ll change my mind. Thank you!
I haven’t posted my cri comparison photoshoot yet, but my conclusion is that Optisolis is not sufficiently visually better than 519a/b35am to be worth the hassle. I have tested 3000k-6500k, as well as one mix.
1 Thank
It’s good to hear one opinion. Some of us are more sensitive to spectral deficiencies than others, and some might have more trouble seeing them. I’ve remarked in the beginning that violet-pumped LEDs are currently a niche that has not been covered by commercially available flashlights, and it’s ok if this niche isn’t for you. But others could find this interesting or important.
The issue with photoshoots is that they can only be viewed in RGB through a computer screen, which drastically reduces the amount of color rendering information available. A 100 CRI source, on a photo, can be indistinguishable from a <60 CRI source that is the computer screen.
1 Thank
Let’s not open another can of worm that is the spectral sensitivity and noise floor of the camera sensors. The thing is, there is a visible difference between 100 CRI and 70 CRI light source when doing photos shoot, unless you are using a potato camera shot in complete darkness.
2 Thanks
But Holga cameras are so fun. They’re about as potato-like in quality as you can get with 120 film.
I’d love to hear more about spectral sensitivity and noise in camera sensors! Feel free to start a new thread if you’d like. I care very much about getting the highest possible CRI and understanding how color rendering works.
Regarding how well cameras can tell the difference between low and high CRI (with other parameters such as tint/saturation fixed), you might find this Optisolis vs Osram comparison interesting. Full discussion on this page.
Looking forward to your post!
Out of curiosity, I just did a walk around in my basement comparing my 4000K Optisolis with the 4500K 519A. Both in single reflector flashlights.
I liked the Optisolis better, but it could be due to a slightly more rosier tint than better CRI. The Optisolis just looked “cleaner/more crisp” than the 519A.
And depending where you source the LEDs, some will be better than others.
2 Thanks
I’d like to place an order for a M21A SFT40 5000K 8A buck … but I’m not clear on what drivers have issues with early step down. Is it the 17mm only? Is the 20mm 8A buck in the M21A OK?