Exactly. A lot of people aren’t in the 21700 craze and will continue to buy 18650/18350 batteries and hosts even if they gradually buy 21700 battery because contrary to what you might think there is a non negligeable difference which you can feel when carrying a 21700 flashlights in a pocket (pants) compared to 18650.
There is no 21350 battery, if you want a shorter quad, a 18650/18350 quad host like the S2+ is still the way to go and probably even for many years.
I hope that you will consider to make one beside your new 21700 flashlights.
That’s the problem with Simon’s new drivers. No options like mode groups or memory toggle. After using the Biscotti drivers in his lights, these new drivers are a major step down in UI. The only advantage is the higher current.
If you want no memory and an SST-20 try the 7135x8 biscotti driver. Better UI and still very bright. If you want high current and the ability to disable memory LED4power’s LD-A4 driver has various current options and customizable settings like memory. I haven’t tried the LD-A4 yet but it’s on my list of stuff to try.
That’s it, discussion is over
Anyway, I could appreciate something which would center the battery within some size range. It would be really nice e.g. to fit a 18650 battery to a 26650 light without adapters, rattling, etc.
How should it work? I don’t know, but I have seen some 3D printed springy marvels already, what I were not able to imagine :sunglasses:
One more thing: Is it legal to have so much lumens in a so small light, like in the M3?
Mine just has arrived. It has approximately the same brightness as the L6, but in a wider hotspot Brilliant!
Keep in mind based on his photos of his new lights his newer higher powered lights using these drivers have the springs bypassed which will be highly recommended in your own builds.
Je ne suis pas d'accord! Please don't take this as an offence BlueSwordM but there is no high current reverse clicky switch available that can sustain current drain above 8A without causing a significant increase in resistance in your entire current path. Thus, you lose output over the forward clicky switch. Another side effect is the terrible noise these kind of switches will make when applying too much current. Personally, I prefer the forward clicky with momentary turbo and a locked mode when fully pressing the tailcap switch. I have no problems when people ask for a reverse switch version but I do not agree with the phrase that for the rest of us it is more optimal to use reverse switches. ;-)
In this case, I would prefer the L6 style. Switch is on-off (that is a forward clicky, if I am correct), and an electronic switch for the UI. If there are enough space in the tailcap, they could be next to each other, or if it is possible, the electronic switch could be a ring around the on-off switch.
I am very used to change mode after I have turned on the flashlight, maybe this is why I hate forward clicky.