DB Custom: Did you sand down the bottom of your SMO reflector like shown in the third image here ?
Slicing the dome looses you a noticable amount of lumens, so I wouldn’t do that. I tried it on the xhp70 and didn’t like it, so I bought a new emitter. Pics are in my link.
The KeepPowers might work with the FET driver. I pulled out my old ones which were at 4.1v and tested the current.
About 9-9.5A
That’s way down from the Liitokalas cells I use which will measure up to 17 to 18 amps. Let me fully charge these KeepPowers and measure again.
That might give you a bit better focus. It may also give you a short circuit. I wouldn’t do that. The difference can be measured with a lux meter, but not very noticable with the eye.
I don’t know why your saying this.
I got about 10.5 amps with the KeepPowers, so they should be okay.
Maybe I’m wrong about the XHP70.2 having less throw than the XHP70 at the same current. Anyone want to give some measured numbers? And this is not to say that I think the XHP70.2 will have bad throw; it will work fine in your L6.
The reason I’m saying the XHP70.2 will have less beam intensity is because it is a new type of LED architecture from Cree which we have observed to have less throw in other LEDs. See here.
Are you talking about dedomed 70.2?
It’s been said that dedoming/slicing on the new generation cree leds (50.2, 70.2, xp-g3) don’t yield the same results as on the older generation.
This is why I don’t recommend it. Plus you lose a lot of lumens. It’s not worth it in my opinion.
So I still think geofox’s plan is a good one. Even with the weaker batteries, output vs heat is good. I typically ramp my light up to max 17 (amps) then ramp it down to 9-10 amps or the point I see the light start to drop a little and heat is managable. I rarely use my full output.
I don’t reduce the bottom of the reflector in the L6, or haven’t to date, then again my main one still has an orange peel reflector. I use the lathe to open up the emitter shelf and use a 32mm MCPCB (or 31mm) to move the contact pads further out and give it more copper for the thermal path. Also use Kapton tape on the base of the reflector.
Edit: Here’s my silver L6, fitted with the large MaxTOCH MCPCB and the fat MT-G2…
This light has my smooth reflector, fitted to the larger emitter…
I like how the MT-G2 works in these lights with the aperture of the reflector opened up to the point the reflector can sit on the MCPCB, surrounding the substrate of the emitter. Sometimes I’ll actually cut it square with a file so it matches the die. 
On this one, I DID open it up on the lathe and cut back the surrounding base to some extent, to be sure the wires cleared. Also used the Kapton tape to be sure…
dale
any beamshots ???i do like the MTG2 and should be fun inside! you loose more of the throw to get higher spill output ?
I just really like the big fat Cree MT-G2, not a win/lose scenario for me, more of a “I want” kind of thing. lol
It’s definitely got the unique MT-G2 creaminess, and some slight artifacts white wall hunting from the all the tiny dies, but there is a hot spot which is the difficult thing with this large of an emitter.
I’ll take a quick shot and show you what it does on the wall… brb
Edit: Pic added, Silver L6 with MT-G2 and stock driver.
Edit II: On freshly charged iJoy 26650’s, (before the beamshot) it makes 6.07A at the tail for 3453.8 lumens.
Sounds good. Can you notice a significant difference visually when using the KeepPowers compared to the Liitokalas?
I plan to cover the board in kapton tape so short circuits shouldn’t be a problem. Seems like I should get similar results if I just remove the centering ring and don’t modify the reflector. In the instructions on mountain electronics he replaces the centering ring with a flat gasket, but then he has to shave off some of the reflector to make up for the thickness of the gasket.
i like it !
i think i’ll try it i have one spare mtg2
Is there any benefit going with a Texas Avenger driver running Narsil compared to the MTN driver running D4 UI? Starting to look at the TA instead of the MTN driver.
Edit: Finally found a document explaining all the settings for the Narsil UI so I’ll go with a TA driver if any are available.
It’s a small, extra boost in brightness. Once you start pushing the led hard the gains become less and less, but the heat goes up a lot.
I only paid about $12 shipped for a pair of unprotected liitokala batteries. They made a noticable improvement on the stock driver (when resistor modded). I’ve got a lux meter so I can measure all these gains, but the human eye just sees a small boost.
You could get some liitokala cells later if you want to try them. Just ramp down the power for less heat and longer runtimes.
NarsilM (the newest one) also has a non ramping UI built in, but it’s not that great. I stick with ramping. I really don’t know much about the D4 UI (called RampingIOS) other than its a stripped down and slightly changed version of NarsilM.
Mountain Electronics just started offering that RampingIOS a few weeks ago so it’s pretty new and wasn’t available when I built my 2 lights. NarsilM wasn’t out when I built my L6, which is why it has the older Narsil v1.2 and no temp regulation. I use my hands to control the temp.
I ordered my Supfire driver right when NarsilM came out so it has temp regulation, but I still use my hand as it’s such a small light.
I wouldn’t mess with any of this. You can squeeze out a few more lux on the meter, but I actually prefer not to do it. The difference is in the corona size around the hot spot. Just try the smooth reflector with the stock centering ring.
Just installed my brand new XHP70.2 from Mouser but only one of the 4 dies is working 
any Ideas?
Toasted during re-flow! Iv’e done a couple too.
I can hardly imagine that… I used a solder paste which melts at ~220°C and placed the LED only when the paste was already liquid. Then I put it on a copper heat sink immediatley.